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Temp

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Everything posted by Temp

  1. Temp
    Probably cheaper to go direct to a local glass merchants. Make templates out of plywood and tell them what it's for. I think the glass should be toughened glass and have a BS Kitemark or CE mark on each pane to meet building regs. You might consider specifying Optiwhite or "low iron" glass which is slightly less green at exposed edges but costs a bit more.
  2. Temp
    Thanks for the tips as I have a similar issue to sort out.
  3. Temp
    I recognise Deuren is Flemish for doors. That got me interested as the best quality doors I've ever seen were at a self build show in Brussels. They say.. Something like 80% of new houses in Belgium are self builds and the Europeans do seem much more quality conscious than your average UK house builder/buyer so I wouldn't be surprised if their European doors are very good. Perhaps go visit them?
  4. Temp
    +1 You really need to make the floor as rigid as possible to minimise the risk. I'd lift the chipboard and install noggins (got any JJI joists left?) then replace the chipboard with two layers of 18mm plywood with staggered joints all screwed down on 200 mm centers. Drill clearance holes for the screws so they don't pry the ply layers apart.
  5. Temp
    +1 I hired one of those to put a load of posts in single handed. Just as I was finishing the last few a passing farmer tells me they usually just push them in with a back hoe.
  6. Temp
    There seems to be several ebay sellers with similar.. £209.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Modern-Bathroom-Vanity-Unit-Basin-Sink-Unit-2-Drawer-Storage-Cabinet-Furniture-/331283981510?var=&hash=item4d221064c6:m:m3C2hwSXq0sLYqdqQiIAi7w £295 but perhaps ask if would sell basin only? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/March-High-Gloss-White-Bathroom-Vanity-Furniture-Storage-Unit-Basin-Sink-Cabinet-/381765169533?var=650808453284&epid=1255889104&hash=item58e2fa317d:m:m-CNDVyg_55ODtJF6fbidlA Haven't checked exact sizes.
  7. Temp
    Get them to check the dimensions. An alternative would be to replace the basin with a sheet of white corian and put a free standing basin on top. May have to lower the cabinet on the wall.
  8. Temp

    Warm or cold roof

    Temp replied to Silage's topic in Flat Roofs

    +1 Building control recommend warm where possible... https://www.tendringdc.gov.uk/sites/default/files/documents/planning/building control/Flat roof guide.pdf
  9. Temp
    The under 15sqm (30sqm) rule is a Building Regs rule rather than a Planning rule BUT it only applies to outbuildings not extensions. House extensions (except porches and conservatories) normally need Building Control Approval whatever the size. Edit: An attached car port is only exempt if less than 30sqm and it's open on two sides.
  10. Temp
    I think the answer is to point out to the mortgage company that because you own both plots you already have a 'quasi-easement' and that the law only allows you to convert that to a full easement when one plot is sold. Perhaps ask your solicitor if it's possible to formalise this in some way? Perhaps by inserting a covenant in the deeds of the old house requiring the owner (currently you) to grant an easement if that was ever sold?
  11. Temp
    Wikipedia says.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Easements_in_English_law but it goes on to say.. so perhaps ask your solicitor about that reference 8 (Thompson, p. 500).
  12. Temp
  13. Temp
    Possibly a Mk3 Mondeo Estate?
  14. Temp
    If you can't get it below £1700... That sure sounds like they would be "prohibited from occupation by law". PS: I would appeal the valuation on the grounds that they cannot be "vacant hut sites" because they don't have planning permission for a hut. They probably didn't know that they don't have PP. PPS: Would they value each site at £20m if you said you planned to drill for oil but hadn't got planning permission yet?
  15. Temp
    The real problem appears to the getting the robo toaster to figure out when to make the toast.. http://uk.businessinsider.com/mark-zuckerberg-on-toast-and-his-robot-butler-2016-7
  16. Temp
    Not sure if this helps unless you can beat them down from £2000 to £1700 http://www.edinburgh.gov.uk/info/20158/business_rate_reductions/758/non-domestic_business_rates_and_empty_properties Extracts.. Does your planning permission have any conditions that might prohibit occupation until a hut is erected? Does the design of each hut have to be approved for example?
  17. Temp
    What happens if the hutter isn't running their hut as a small business?
  18. Temp
    I also like Osmo but agree they can be expensive. The advantage that many "oils" and "waxes" have over "varnish" comes when you need to recoat them. Typically if a patch of varnish deteriorates or wears through then when you sand and recoat that patch remains visible or more visible than it does with oils and waxes. I'm in the process of sanding off a lot of Danish Oil on oak that has been neglected. I'm replacing it with one coat of Rustins Danish to darken the white oak to a light honey colour and then two coats of the Osmo Clear UV Protection Oil. Does look great. Hope it lasts longer than Danish oil as it's about four times the price.
  19. Temp
    Stumbled across this page which has DIY tips and tricks for boring short holes under pavements and the like for services. http://www.askthebuilder.com/tunneling-under-sidewalks-and-driveways/
  20. Temp
    If you use a good quality roofing membrane then it can be left exposed for a few months. I used VP400 and some of it was exposed six months with no apparent ill effect.
  21. Temp
    Actually you might get away with it if just pumping water from a basin rather than a toilet. Would a soakaway be an option?
  22. Temp
    Water to the garden building should be no problem. Just bury a length of MDPE pipe deep enough that it won't freeze in winter. Bring it up inside the building and perhaps use a pipe heater on a frost stat or turn off the water and drain fittings in winter? I don't think you can use a saniflow. See the "can" and "cannot" links on this page.. http://www.saniflo-pumpshop.co.uk/golden-rules-click-ordering/
  23. Temp
    +1 Just remember... as you shuffle your bottom backwards along the roof concentrating on the ridge tiles... look behind you every now and again :-)
  24. Temp
    Not sure about concrete tiles but for clay you sometimes need three types of tile.. Standard Tile and a half (for the verge) Eaves tiles (used at ridge and eaves) Sorry of you know this.
  25. Temp
    I'm an electronics engineer not an Electrician but... I think the exact set up depends on how the house is earthed but the most likely configuration would be something like... MCB in house CU -- Junction box --- SWA to garden building ---- SWA to shed In each outbuildings there would be a "Garage CU" containing an RCD and two MCB (1 lighting, 1 power) and an earth rod. Using the calculator at the TLC web site and an overall length of 32m.. 2.5mm^2 is ok up to 4kW 4mm^2 is ok up to 6kW 6mm^2 is ok up to 10kW Going up a cable size adds about £20 to the cost of a 50m reel.. Cable would be 2 core SWA (if the earth isn't exported from the house and earth rods are used). Would be 3 core if the earth can be exported. I put outside lights on my shed operated by a PIR. If you want a light on the shed that can be switched from the house end you might want an extra core or two? I used 3/8" polyprop rope to pull ours through. If you leave enough rope at the CU end you can pull the cable through AND leave the rope in the duct for future use.
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