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Temp

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Everything posted by Temp

  1. Temp
    We did something similar but used lever operated valves.
  2. Temp
    I think technically a certificate is only needed if you are building a charitable building or something like that but it can be used to convince a reluctant contractor to do what they are meant to and zero rate. At least that way the subcontractor has something to wave at HMRC if they question his VAT return. Interesting. Also found that discussed here.. https://www.justanswer.com/uk-tax/7pbn3-vat-i-m-building-new-house-once-complete-hope.html One view is that VAT is only charged if the "house" is sold after a change of use. So if the self builder sells it as a house after say 5 years and the new owner converts it to a hotel then he might have to pay/repay VAT when he sells it as a hotel. I never actually supplied the HMRC certificate to any trades. I just wrote them a letter stating that the work related to a new build and should be zero rated, and included relevant details like my address and the planning reference number.
  3. Temp
    So you hope a remortgage would be at a lower interest rate than your existing mortgage? Where are you living at the moment? Are you living in the holiday let?
  4. Temp
    It's all in Vat Notice 708. This tells trades what they should/shouldn't charge you VAT on. If he provides materials and labor they should zero rat both to you even if he paid vat on the materials himself. He should reclaim that when he does his vat return. Might help convince him if you give him a letter stating this work is in connection with a new dwelling and put the address and planning reference on it. Any problem and we can find the relevant section in Vat 708 to quote to him.
  5. Temp
    This could be of interest to someone planning to convert a building to holiday let's or similar... http://www.huntspost.co.uk/news/matched-funding-available-for-small-and-micro-rural-businesses-1-5463226 Might just be in that area but perhaps similar funding available in other areas?
  6. Temp
    That's usually what happens if an owner extends their own house. I think that's an option if a builder buys a house, extends it, and resells it? I doubt it happens very often as all it does is delay payment of the cil and potentially complicate the sale. I suspect most builders just pay the cil or do smaller extensions to avoid it. It's also what happens if someone buys a house with pp for an extension that hasn't been started yet. They can decide if they want to build the extension or not. If they don't build the approved extension they don't pay the cil. If they do build it they can apply for the exemption before they start.
  7. Temp
    If it's not exempt you will have to pay it. If it is exempt as a self build extension then it's essential you follow the procedure on the exemption form. It actually says on the form that if you don't do xyz before starting work then you become liable for the full CIL. Down load the exemption form, read and highlight the things you need to do before starting. It's not very complicated.
  8. Temp
    That makes sense to me. There has to be one person or company with overall responsibility for the site. If you use a prime contractor to build your house then it's their job and they become responsible for all the other subcontractors, site visitors, and even the customer when he's on site. If you take on the job as prime contractor and hire subcontractors yourself then it's your responsibility. My guess is that other trades didn't know they should really be asking you for copies of your insurance even if they have their own.
  9. Temp
    Normally what matters is were they insured on the date of the acident. If they go bust soon after that shouldn't matter as the insurance co is still liable.
  10. Temp
    Play houses are on a different scale to normal buildings. They are sized for kids, windows are lower, doors smaller and have slides etc. Prices rang from £250-400. I suspect it might cost that to properly convert and damp proof your existing building. I think ship lap boarding is at least £12 per square meter. You didn't say how big it is but say it's 3 x 3 x 2.4 high then each wall is 7.2sqm. Four outside walls come to 28-29 sqm or £336. Double if you do the inside as well.
  11. Temp
    If you had loads of space you would have a full size container and a small office/wc. The storage container is essential for first fix items like pipe, electric cable, windows and tools that might be on site before the building is secure. My builder told me he never uses an insulated or heated office because he said it encourages people to sit around drinking tea in winter.. I think the key thing is can you park a container and static van on the drive and still get a lorry with crane offload past it to the house? Heavy vehicles coming and going may churn up that side of the driveway, perhaps requiring hardcore to repair. So make sure you won't want that area to be a flower bed later. eg Put any temporary road where the final road is going so you don't have to rip up hardcore later. If the drains and other services are going down the driveway perhaps put those in early on then put the storage container/office on top?
  12. Temp
    Here is the excuse the builders gave.. https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2008/jul/03/ethicalliving.architecture
  13. Temp
    The building was the summit building on Snowdon.. Previous thread from the ebuild forum.. http://www.ebuild.co.uk/topic/16443-planning-conditions-getting-one-amended/ The link I posted in #16 doesn't work but there are extracts in #18 reproduced below..
  14. Temp
    Last time this came up I posted a link to a story about a visitor centre on a mountain somewhere. There was a fuss because the builder hadn't used local slate and the council said they weren't able to mandate use of local slate because of EU competition law. I've not been able to google it when I tried just now but will have another go.
  15. Temp
    I assume you have put wire in the conduit? Fit back boxes now and coil the excess wire up in them. A good plasterer will manage to avoid filling the back boxes leaving them visible. At worse you might need a hand held tap to clean out the face plate screw holes. I once had a summer job with an electrician fitting face plates in an office block. On one floor we had a face plate left over. Turned out the plasterer had gone right over the back box so well it was invisible. The electrician found it with a metal detector but to send the plasterer a message he also dug holes all over the place so the plasterer would have to come back.
  16. Temp
    Don't miss the jumping/back flip in the second half.. Edit: Oops sorry I meant to post this in the off topic section.
  17. Temp
    I'm using hikvision camera which seem to be good quality without being silly money. However I use a NAS server in the loft for storage. Would your broadband _upload_ speed be good enough to stream to off site storage?
  18. Temp
    I think they would be horribly slow. Much quicker just to give them a few taps with the block.
  19. Temp
    My top tip for tiling is to learn how to use a rubber faced tile beating block (aka Blat) to level the tiles. It's a technique my father showed me but I've not been able to find a youtube video. You apply adhesive using a notched trowel so you can adjust the amount the tile stands off the wall in the normal way. Then you rest one end of the block on one tile then lift and gently tap or press the other end against the tile you want to level. This makes the two tiles the same level. Repeat over an area of tiles and they all become remarkably flat. I've seen people use a spirit level (as a block) to level floor tiles in a similar way. Google found a picture of the block I have but the web page says it's not in their current catalogue. https://www.rubi.com/en/tile-beating-block-rd326
  20. Temp
    NHBC have a lot on floors and joists in their site work guides.. http://nhbccampaigns.co.uk/landingpages/techzone/previous_versions/2011/Part6/section4/sitework.htm Builders merchants are full of bent bits of metal for this sort of thing. I think you normally use a L shape strap hooked over the wall and nailed to the joist in addition to the hanger. One of these straps every 2m. Something like that. PS: If it's different for Posijoists I would ask them.
  21. Temp
    I think that's true for hangers fitted to a timber wall plate. The pictures of masonry hangers show no nail holes on the bits facing the wall. http://www.strongtie.co.uk/products/detail/heavy-masonry-hanger-for-solid-joists/341#tab-installation
  22. Temp
    Not normally but I see Incipiens Mox said..
  23. Temp
    I wrote my own "Tree Protection Method Statement" but that was rather easier. Google can find templates for asbestos removal method statements but I've no idea if they are any more than section headings or have far too much content... https://www.haspod.com/documents/method-statements/asbestos-removal-template?gclid=CjwKCAjwhcjVBRBHEiwAoDe5x3fRgKgIoXVFKWV2_BgHu84hFZ2j9vaizwIjACKZStGPYZ1uM9MLoBoCjnQQAvD_BwE https://www.hsdirect.co.uk/product-information/method-statements/asbestos-removal-method-statement.html You can also find examples that other people have written for specific projects. This might be useful ... DIY Asbestos sample and test kit for £37.. https://asbestossamplesdirect.com/
  24. Temp
    I think the key word here might be "Alternatively". As I read it they are recommending further sampling or "Alternatively" send all the spoil to a licensed waste centre. That would probably be expensive so ideally you want to do what Declan proposed which is to dig some out, sample it and if no asbestos found send that lot for regular disposal. The question is can you write your own method statement that documents the process or will the BCO insist you get an expert to write it. I think it will need to include things like warnings to site workers for example.
  25. Temp
    even if same batch code I would check samples from a few boxes anyway. Would be a pain to find out half way through that you should have mixed the boxes.
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