Temp

+1 to a master socket with separate phone and broadband sockets. No need for filters anywhere else. With one of these you must plug the modem into the master socket but that's also recommended if you want the best broadband possible. Tell BT where you want the master socket and modem to go. We use DECT cordless phones with the primary base station plugged into the phone socket on the master. That way we have almost no "phone" wire in the house. Just two short wires, one from the master socket to the modem and one to the DECT base, all three in same cupboard.

+1 on the foundations. They should have dug trial pits to see what was there. Any movement/expansion joints?

A quick look here suggests the penalty is £120 or £80 if paid within 28 days of the penalty being issued but it seems likely that you would be hit with more than one.. http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2007/1952/schedule/2/made

I'm have to go out so in a rush.. See.. https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/614845/street-works-qualifications-guidance-for-operatives-and-supervisors.pdf "The registration body will then record the certificate on the street works register" Perhaps the register is online?

I would get the phone line installed using BT then switch to whoever you choose afterwards when it's working. In theory all ISP should have the same relationship with Openreach that BT do but I'm not convinced.

We have been with PlusNet for 10+ years. They aren't perfect but I've always found their customer support quite good. My main gripe (also with other ISP) is the lax security some apply to email account passwords. If your email account is hacked the bad guys can request new passwords from other companies that reset passwords by emailing you a link. See also.. From 2015.. https://www.theregister.co.uk/2015/11/25/plusnet_still_delivering_passwords_plaintext/ From 2017.. https://community.plus.net/t5/My-Account-Billing/Password-security/td-p/1419734

I would allow at least enough room to get a narrow scaffolding tower up past the verges. Narrow scaffolding is around 0.85m but you need some extra space to move it around so I'd say at least 1m from the verge (which is more than 1m from the wall). Any rainwater down pipes or boiler flues on that wall? PS: Narrow towers that tall should have outrigger legs but that would add a lot more space. PPS: A Wheelie Bin is about 60cm wide so perhaps allow at least 75cm to get one down there easily.

If you get caught by that find out if the company has a "Commercial Entity Agreement". If it does that section 75 of the consumer credit act might still save you.. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/personal-banking/credit-cards/section-75-credit-card-warning-online-payments-lose-protection/

Yes till receipts under £30 were ok when I did mine. Places like BnQ hand wrote a separate VAT receipt when I asked for one.

Importing from China may incur import duty and VAT but might be able to reclaim the VAT? https://www.johngood.co.uk/2017/08/03/importing-from-china/

I would explain the info you put on the form in a covering letter. Remember that your calculation may also be shared with the tax authorities in your new country of residence and they may not have an exemption for PPR.

More.. I understand your confusion with figure 3.43 but my understanding is that only applies to stoves that can heat the hearth over 100c. It looks like the regs were written at a time when everything needed a constructional hearth so all the sketches applied. Then some time later when stoves became popular they added paragraph b).

I had a quick look at the Scottish regs from your link and they look very similar to the regs in England. As I understand it the hearth issue becomes clear if you start by dividing solid fuel appliances into one of two categories: 1) Those that can raise the temperature of the hearth >100C If your WBS falls into this category then a constructional hearth is required. The Scottish regs describe various alternative constructional hearths but the key feature is a 125mm concrete slab ( see fig 3.43 and 3.48). 2) Those that are incapable of raising the hearth >100C. If your WBS falls into the second category then you can get away with a 12mm thick layer/sheet of something non-combustible like glass, slate stone etc). This must be the right size and shape and form a 12mm step up to discourage rugs being put too close. In the Scottish Regs this appears to be detailed in section 3.19.5b See also figure 3.41 and 3.42 which specify the size of the hearth in relation to the foot print of the stove. eg it must extend 300mm out the front in case embers fall out when the door is opened. Edit: My stove has legs so I assumed it was incapable of raising the hearth over 100C. I used a 20mm sheet of granite from a stone mason on top of wood flooring over PIR insulation between joists. I went for 20mm because my stove is heavy and I was worried about the weight cracking it.

I would assume that's 456mm from the whole top of the stove not just the flue pipe.

Someone told me they are now able to 3D print parts for use on F1 cars directly. Anyone seen more info?

That will teach you to go all independent :-)

https://www.screwfix.com/p/felt-support-tray-1-5m-5-pack/36622?_requestid=454280 https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p37072 https://www.howarth-timber.co.uk/building-materials/roofing/roof-ventilation/eaves/view-product/refurbishment-felt-support-tray Shop around as these seem cheaper than Screwfix (but haven't checked they are same size).. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Protector-Support-Fascia-Sagging-Protection/dp/B00PQDJNEU/ref=pd_day0_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CSRRN4REHR8CQ7741CV5 If not wide enough you would strip off enough rows of tiles and battens to allow another strip of membrane to be inserted under the lower edge of the existing membrane and put these trays under the edge of the new strip.

That's not quite correct. Nothing above ground must encroach or overhang the boundary but foundations can encroach on a neighbours land subject to you giving notice. Needless to say the neighbour may not like this but see... http://www.partywalladvice.com/2009/08/02/73/

If things like electric have to go around the house (lots of tight bends) I would try and put the cable in the duct before it's buried. It's what I did for our shed. Not sure if the utility companies will allow that though. Otherwise I wonder if you can put a manhole at bends so the cable pulls can be done in sections?

It's a matter of finding the right solvent for the adhesive on the label. Once you get the right one they usually come off easily. In the past I've tried Meths or even petrol. Try that before petrol as it stinks less!

It looks like you need something "in the wall" as Peter and Chris suggest. Chris is referring to something like this soldered to a length of copper pipe. https://plumbing4home.com/brass-plumbing-fittings-for-solder-with-copper-pipes-15mm-x-12-inch-female-bsp Do all the outside assembly, wrap pipe in tape, pass through wall, set to right depth in wall, cut pipe to length, make inside connection.

About time Axminster sourced a low cost Mitre saw with induction motor. I have their table saw and the induction motor makes it much quieter to use.

Two main issues with sliding doors.. Sliding doors are slow. They take longer and more effort to open and shut behind you without banging. They can reduce the width of the opening.. They have a "stop" which prevents the door going too far into the pocket and prevents you jamming your hand between the door handle and the frame as it opens. So you have to factor this in when working out how wide a door you need to give the regulation opening width.

Remember to put expansion gaps at doors. We screeded two rooms and then tiled right through with an opus pattern stone. The two areas of screed appear to have shrunk very slightly towards there own centres pulling apart/cracking at the doorway. Needless to say this curved crack propagated through the stone. This despite a lot of effort to do it right, including using fibres and covering the screed so it didn't dry too quickly initially, then waiting a long time for it to dry before laying the stone using a flexible adhesive etc. Just forgot/didn't know we should put an expansion gap in.

Some people say that the thermal properties of PIR degrade over time but as I understand it the value quoted is the degraded value so actually PIR is slightly better than the quoted value when new.