Temp

I believe it depends if the pump is simply part of the delivery of the concrete or if they are actually providing a service such as the filling of form work or leveling slabs as well... Seperate delivery charges are normally standard rated, not reclaimable. Services are zero rated, and materials provide as part of the service are also zero rated.

I don't know if this sort of thing is any good...only 3V so not much power? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-Cordless-Edging-Shrub-Shear/dp/B00GZLFQB6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1534057366&sr=8-3&keywords=electric+hedge+clippers

I've not used them but perhaps try iwood ... https://www.iwood.co.uk/cut-to-size/35/elm-european/ Min order value is £750

Check the wording of your planning permission carefully. There have been cases where permission was granted for a conversion, then during construction Building Control told them the existing building was unsafe/unusable. After knocking down the unsafe parts the planners told them their was insufficient left for it still to be classed as a conversion and withdrew their permission on the grounds it could no longer be implemented. They then objected to a new application on the grounds that a new house in the country side was against policy. I'm sure appeals have gone both ways. The can get messy. If in doubt get the planners to confirm a knock down and rebuild is ok in writing. If they won't do that it might only be because some planning offices are funny about not giving legally binding advice in a letter. They might insist you apply to ammend the planning grant or apply for a certificate.

Perhaps worth a read.. https://www.gosschalks.co.uk/blog/2018/03/05/wayleave-qanda-with-matthew-fletcher

If the appliances are "free" then what happend if you need to send something back for a refund?

A wood stain won't work well on metal. Might not last first winter. I would get them professionally painted before fitting, probably powder coated but it won't be cheap. Check with the window manufacturer to see what they recommend.

I need glasses for the PC screen which I like to keep at the back of the desk and reading/close work. Optician recommended graduated lenses which are like bifocal lens's but with a smooth transition. I find they work very well.

So he's proposing to move the macerator pipe from under the floor to outdoors on the surface? Risk of freezing?

Our house in Belgium had an underground rainwater tank. It was built as part of the krup kelder a 3ft deep cellar just used for services. Not sure how many others had smilar

Our UFH system is vented so runs at 0.1 to 0.3 bar. Not had any issues with noisy circulation pumps. They are Grunfos pumps. Just make sure they are mounted in the correct orientation, you can't just put them in any old which way.

I see in the news today that the police are investigating a missing £1.1m that the Riba say they can't account for following the redevelopment of their headquarters. My guess is they forgot to account for their own fees :-) https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/fraud-squad-investigates-riba-over-missing-1-1m-bgpnspmhx

Perhaps consider.. a)Adding more insulation to the cylinder? b)Setting the time clock so the hot water is only on first and last thing in the day?

Yes. It's possible for rain and snow to blow up under tiles. The idea is it then runs down the membrane which is draped into the gutter at the bottom. The counter batten lifts the tile batten so water can run down under it. If you plan to fully fill the space between the rafters you should check that the membrane manufacturer allows it to be in contact with the insulation. If you were a boy scout you will know that you shouldn't touch the inside of a tent when it's raining as that can cause the water to come through. Its not quite that bad but not all manufacturers recommend putting insulation in contact with their membrane. Last time I looked Kingspan make one that is approved for contact. For some reason manufacturers that don't allow it to be in contact with insulation, still allow it in contact with the rafters (otherwise it would be no use to anyone). Go figure. I've also used the VP400. It's pretty strong stuff. They say you can leave it exposed for a long time and I did just that. Had some exposed for a year on an out building and it was fine.

I think having a motorised valve in the bypass would be useful. You could arrange for it to open and close depending on the relative temperatures or time of day. eg bypass at night when it's cooler outside than in. Heat exchanger in the daytime when it's hotter outside then in

I think you may only need to do the inlet bypass. I think you could leave the extract air going through the heat exchanger - it just wouldn't be able to heat the incoming air.

Thing is you can't reclaim the VAT until the house is completed. A completion certificate is just one way of proving it's completed but the HMRC do accept other methods. What you tell the heating installer is up to you :-)

Is that road also needed for access? I ask because if no owner can be traced then anyone (angry neighbour etc) could fence it off and obstruct your access. You would not be able to legally evict them because only the land owner can evict someone. You couldn't remove their fence without committing criminal damage. Your neighbours might be able to go to court and claim they have acquired a right of access but perhaps not you? In Huntingdon there was an issue a few years ago over rubbish collections from private roads. The council suddenly discovered they needed the land owners details so they had someone to bill if the condition of the road caused damage or an accident.

You might be OK but a completion certificate isn't the only thing the VAT man will accept as evidence of completion. I would read the claim form carefully and submit a covering letter that plays up the scale of work that still needed to be done and any problems funding it etc.

That's my understanding. A builder should charge you 5% on labour and materials he supplies (even if he pays 20% on materials from a builders merchant). Any material you buy yourself from a builders merchant or elsewhere will be charged at 20%. (or perhaps 21% if you order from Belgium) All of the VAT you pay can be reclaimed using Form 431C. So overall both a conversion and a newbuild end up zero rated, it's just a different process and paperwork. All of the VAT the builder pays can be reclaimed by him when he does his VAT return. In case nobody mentions it.. Do NOT start work until you have all the paperwork sorted for your CIL exemption.

Have you got a reference for this? I've looked at the notes that accompany the reclaim forms 431NB and 431C. The new build form 431NB doesn't mention agricultural buildings (at least a search for "agri" gets no hits) and its quite clear at the bottom of page 4 and top of 5 what you can/cant retain and still qualify as a new build. The conversion form 431C only mentions agricultural buildings in one place and there it's only talking about eligibility criteria (eg must not be a dwelling already).

Perhaps worth remembering that of the 4 pairs you actually only need 2 to make an 10baseT connection. So if it turns out one or two pairs are broken half way along the cable the simple answer might be to wire up the remaining pairs.

+1 on the punch downs being a common problem. I'd look at that first and perhaps just remake or perhaps make up a dongle that puts a short or say 270R across one of the pairs and look for that from the other end just to check you have the right cable.

I believe you are only allowed to retain the front wall and foundations. Otherwise it's a conversion. What does your planning permission say? Convert or knock down and rebuild? If it's a conversion your builder should charge 5% (on both materials and Lab) but you can reclaim this using... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vat-refunds-for-diy-housebuilders-claim-form-and-notes-for-conversions-vat431c Edit: I'm in a rush to go out but... Do not refer to it as a garage anywhere if there is a danger the Vat man might consider it part of an existing dwelling and will reject your claim.

Presumably it's a metal pipe so can you trace it with a metal detector?