Temp

All week the weather man has been hyping the fact that it's going to be glorious weather for the Easter weekend. I'd give them a break.

Think I'd get my own report done. Think some council specify a 25m splay in a 20mph zone. See if you can find a policy doc for your council and get a report showing how you can meet that.

If turfing keep an eye on the weather. Nearly lost ours due to it drying and shrinking in the sun and wind. Our sprinklers (plural) could hardly keep up.

I haven't really looked at the drawing (it's 2am) but has he added walls to reduce the span of the beams?

I'm saying no. At least until they can guarantee to give me a Smeets 2 spec meter.

Appears different manufacturers use different flow/return/room temperatures when they spec their output powers.... Stelrad 70/55/20 AEL 80/60/20

+1 to delta T but beware it's not always linear. As I understand it some rad are specified for "70/55" meaning an inlet temp of 70 and an outlet of 55 with an average of just over 60. So the delta T to a 21C room is just over 40C. However have heard some rads are specified at 90/70. This article explains that doubling or halving the delta T doesn't double or half the power output of a radiator. It's because radiators work by both conduction and radiation. Radiation is proportional to T^4 I think... https://www.castrads.com/frequently-asked-questions/buying-cast-iron-radiators/how-does-delta-t-affect-heat-output/

Their web site says.. If they are installed under or behind anything I believe the radiant properties will depend on what's covering the heating foil NOT the foil itself. So unless you install them bare I don't think they have any heating advantage over conventional electric UFH.

I've just painted my shed using a £14 Hoselock pump up plant sprayer ?

I've come across this before. Its like the planners have as short memory. Once you demolish a building its as if it never existed and your plot suddenly becomes a green field site on which their policies don't allow new houses to be constructed. Heaven help anyone that has a fire and needs PP to rebuild their isolated cottage in the greenbelt. So under no circumstances demolish or allow the shed to fall down until this is sorted. I think I would submit an application to demolish and rebuild with the new building being _identical_ to the approved conversion in every way externally. That way they cannot argue the new proposal is too big, wrong style etc etc because those issues have effectively already been addressed and approved. If necessary take or threaten to take this to appeal including to remove any new conditions you can't live with. Then once its established that you can replace the existing building with a new one, submit a new application to make the replacement slightly bigger, different shape, or change materials etc.

http://www.pavingexpert.com/drain05.htm#dropshaft However I don't see an existing branch connection down your manhole hole. Have a look down any others to see if there is a spare you can use. Otherwise..

There are currently lots of minor and not so minor differences for same sex partners. The government lists them here... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/comparison-of-civil-partnership-and-marriage-for-same-sex-couples I think there could be pension differences under the new act for opposite sex couples. For example widows pension rights for those in a civil partnership only accrue from the date of the Act that allowed civil partnerships. Where as I think rights for the widow of a married couple usually take into account his or her whole service history.

Common problem is forgetting to tell the builder you want a tiled floor in the bathroom. If they find out early enough they can add more joists and set them lower to allow for thicker layers of WBP and the tiles without raising the floor level.

Many years ago someone reported problems with their wet ufh system. The return temperature was very high causing short cycling. Turned out they had used an aerated screed.

Not all hardcore is considered permeable. As I recall you need to specify MOT type 3 rather than type 1?

Beware.... HMRC are likely to only accept VAT receipts from the date the retrospective planning permission is granted, nothing before. I recall a case where someone got PP to convert their double garage to a fully self contained granny annex. The council applied a condition that it could not be sold separately from the main house. This meant it did not qualify for the vat reclaim as it wasn't a new dwelling. Half way through the build they got the condition removed meaning it was a new dwelling for VAT purposes. HMRC argued that only VAT receipts dated after the planning condition was removed could be reclaimed. Your situation seem to be similar. It would not be eligible for the VAT reclaim scheme until you get PP to knock down and rebuild. Edit: Actually I can't remember if they were converting a garage or building an extension but the point is the eligibility changed during the build.

I think our builder shot nailed timber to the web of the I beam to make it square then used straps to tie the wall down to the beam. Straps were J shape (strips bent on site) so they were fixed both sides.

Some assumptions that are unsafe and issues that can cost you a lot... The grass verge out front is part of the highway. The approved house will fit on the plot. The plot is the size implied by the site plan/title plan/planning drawings. There are services nearby so you must be able to connect to them easily. There are no services across the plot. It's a green field so no need to check for soil contamination. The access road is a bit narrow (but my van fits down it so should be ok). The seller says he will get planning permission for you. It's ok to start building your house the day after getting planning permission (At least two issues). Cutting down a nearby willow tree will stop you having to dig deep foundations. If you aren't allowed to put surface water into the main sewer you can always use soakaways. A self builder is always exempt from the CIL. A self builder can reclaim any VAT they are charged. Not using enough insulation. I'm sure there are plenty more.

There is a lot to be said for shutters.

We have a freestanding "boat" bath which I got as a "second" from a chap on eBay 12 years ago. Also acrylic and it's been great. Before buying a bath I recommend sitting in it if you can. Some makes are strangely shapped (too narrow or even too long so you keep sliding down).

In my case they asked for a landscaping plan but we're really only interested in getting me to plant a hedge. So I just sketched where the hedge was going on a site plan and made the relevant number of photocopies. They also wanted a one page planting plan which basically said how many plants, what intervals and what species I was going to plant, details of rabbit protection (plastic spirals) and a note confirming that any that die will be replaced for the first 3 years.

It's very common for planners to treat a conversion differently to a knock down and rebuild. In some cases planners have agreed a "conversion" but refused or tried to refuse a later application to knock down and rebuild. This sometimes happens if the house is in the countryside where a new house wouldn't be allowed today. In some cases owners have had to take it to appeal. If this sounds like your plot I wouldn't knock any more walks down until you get approval for the knock down and rebuild. Eg preserve the possibility that the existing grant can be implemented even if at some cost/complexity.

As I recall you have 6 months from grant of permission to appeal against a planning condition. An alternative is to make a section 73 application to have a condition removed. The latter might be quicker. If you move fast you might have time to do both. Failing that you can make a whole new application that states you will only have a single phase supply (and makes the case for it).

Also google "repair hdmi" without quotes for other ideas. Crimping is probably best but the tool isn't cheap and might be connector specific?

There are solder repair connectors available but I've never used them. Will need a small iron with fine tip. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HDMI-Male-19-Pins-Connector-A-Type-Solder-Termination-Repair-Replace-Kit-5-Pcs/162962886822?epid=1538358618&hash=item25f15850a6:g:jyUAAOSwfuBazLNs I don't see any instructions. edit: or a backshell?