Temp

Google zip kicker.

I think all/most 110mm pipe can be solvent welded but Google says shouldn't use solvent welds below ground.

Local planning guidance varies a lot. Some council's have detailed policies on wind energy and others have no written policy at all. It would be essential to take any such written local policies into account, not least because appeal officers place great weight on policies that have been through public consultation and signed off as consistent with the National Planning Policy Framework (NPPF). In my area, where we already have many wind farms and individual turbines, they employed landscape experts to assess which areas were more or less sensitive to wind energy development and then workout which areas still had capacity to take additional turbines/wind farms without adverse cumulative impact. Heavy reading... Main SPD.. https://www.huntingdonshire.gov.uk/media/1238/wind-energy-development-in-huntingdonshire-2014.pdf Brief guidance.. https://www.huntingdonshire.gov.uk/media/2360/wind-turbine-developments-guidance-note.pdf From a planning perspective I would ask your planning department if they have an SPD on renewable or wind energy.

Just wanted to add that not all pipe can be solvent welded. For example pipe designed for push fittings often can't be solvent welded (and frequently it's a slightly different diameter despite being nominally the same). Test the solvent on the existing pipe as you might need a strap on boss instead.

Yes. You could probably save by digging the holes both sides yourself.. https://www.trenchlesssolutions.co.uk/moling-110mm-drain/ Would depend on what the ground is like.

Not me but Google suggests "Buttonfix" are worth a look. Good reviews on Amazon. Several types. Look simple enough.

Seems you can get ombined rainwater harvesting and attenuation tanks from 1500L upwards.. https://www.stormsaver.com/products/attenuation/stormsaver-combined-rainwater-harvesting-and-attenuation Or perhaps you just need a few crates and some pipe!.. https://www.stormsaver.com/products/attenuation/stormsaver-attenuation-crates

Is the stream 4m below the location of the hydro-brake? We have an underground rainwater storage tank made of fibreglass. I wonder if one of those could be used for the hydro-brake? Google 6000L underground rainwater tank. For those you need to dig a big hole and put concrete in the bottom to bolt the tank down to prevent it floating when empty. Then back fill.

Looks like two purlins one above the other? Are the joist hangers holding up the lower one or are the ends supported? Has the upper purlin been notched for the rafters or have the rafters been notched? Can't tell on my phone.

If the mould lines are very big I'd scrape them off but I've never bothered to roughen up the surfaces. Adhesive on both surfaces as ProDave said. Solvent welding isn't quite as bad as using contact adhesive. If you use enough adhesive there is time to twist a joint to get elbows to line up in the right plane.

Check the terms of the contract as sometimes full payment is the trigger point at which ownership is transferred. If that's the case I think the administrator should release them. Perhaps taking the administrator to the small claims court would get things moving?

Sometimes a brush with bristles cut short used in a hard stippling manner can help get bubbles out.

Would a reinforced raft foundation be an option?

Our MVHR inlet is about 6m away from the oil boiler flue and around a corner. In 12 years we have probably smelt the boiler 3 or 4 times. Hot air rises so I would not put the MVHR inlet above the boiler flue as very likely to get a problem on cold windless days.

+1 or perhaps a few rows of granite kerbs.. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F253302807745 I'd also wait until the build is nearly finished.

That's very good news. Reading your story slowly I had a horrible feeling it wasn't going to end well but good to see HMRC taking a pragmatic approach.

At very least I'd check it's getting electricity before thinking about replacing it. If it's really faulty I'd want to know what went wrong with it.

Many houses without off street parking could have a charger if they were allowed to run a cable across the pavement. Perhaps it should be Permitted Development to cut a channel across the pavement in which to lay and cover a charging cable? Would need some sort of standard design?

About 7million houses. Although I wont cry too much. Most will be houses that are first in the queue for 5g and cable TV. Just for once there might be an advantage to living in the countryside ?

Our BCO wanted the void vented despite there being no wooded joists to rot. We left it empty as we had run out of bodies that needed disposing of ?

According to a report in The Times we need to instal 2300 charging points a day every day until 2050 to meet our climate change target. Is this realistic? How many smart meters a day have been installed?

Our QS was within £1,000 of the cheapest sealed bid. One other bid was close, and two more were 10-15% higher. These were bids from prime contractors.

When I was looking for a plot I stopped outside any nice looking houses I saw under construction to speak to the builder. I was amazed how many were happy to show me around before they had covered up their appalling workmanship. Either they didn't know it was bad or they didn't think I would know what I was looking at. I remember one in particular opened a cupboard door to show me an UFH manifold that had just been installed and it was a right mess. They always gave me a business card but quite a few went in the skip as I walked off site. Tip for anyone looking to choose a builder... Most will offer to take you to house they have built for someone but it's far better to see one they currently have under construction if you can.

If you leave a house to you children there is the "new" allowance... https://www.which.co.uk/money/tax/inheritance-tax/inheritance-tax-property-changes-asy688s1j5zj

It's the system pressure you are measuring. There should be a pressure relief valve (PRV) that opens when the pressure gets too high. It should discharge into a tundish (so you can see and hear if it opens) then to the outside of the house. I think our last house had a PRV set to 4 bar but it's a long time ago.