Temp

Found a "long" D seat which I guess might hide the pan at the front... https://www.amazon.co.uk/Projection-Elongated-One-Release-Seat/dp/B0074K32R2 Possible D without wrap.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Landlord-Direct-Supplies-Release-Fittings/dp/B07212F1L2

As far as I can tell there is no standard size for loo seats. Even the width between hinge points seems to vary. We have a similar D shape back to the wall pan and when I replaced the seat last time I fitted a regular oval shape wood seat and lid. Doesn't look to bad.

I can certainly see the lighter area. Are you sure it was caused by sanding as that shouldn't be needed on a laminate worktop. Was it done by an installer working for a kitchen co or did you hire him? If it was the former I would ask the kitchen co to come take a look.

I didn't think anyone made small CHP systems but this company popped up in an advert on another forum.. https://helec.co.uk/product-category/6kwe-16kwe-gasfirechp/ They have a 20kW heat and 7.5kW electrical unit. Only problem is it costs just under £30,000 !

+1 I don't think the condition is enforcible as worded.

Google found this.. https://rbwm.moderngov.co.uk/Data/Cabinet/20100225/Agenda/meetings_100225_cab_trees_appxA.pdf

When was the speed reduced to 20mph? Was that after they had declared there were no highway issues on that other application? Eg What was the speed limit at the time there were no highway issues? I think this is starting to look like a new highway officer is just a bit fussy. If true I think when you submit the application you should point out there were no highway problems identified on the recent/previous application (reference no) when the speed limit was ??? and since then it has been reduced to 20mph.

Presumably they don't do any assembly of the kit on site themselves? If they did their labour and the kit should be zero rated.

Might be worth a look at grants. Mainly for people on benefits but perhaps your tenant might qualify... https://www.government-grants.co.uk/free-insulation If the walls are solid some councils have (had?) grants for "hard to insulate" properties, might be worth seeing if they have any money left.

I think it could be close. You will have other costs I forgot to include such as council tax. If it's uninhabitable you may not have to pay that. If you rent it for storage watch out for business rates (Some investors in storage containers/pods have been hit for that). You also pay income tax on the rental income. Is there any possibility you might want to retain part of the existing building?... 1) A knock down and rebuild qualifies for 0% VAT. 2) Retaining part might make the rest liable for VAT at either 20% or 5%.. a) Renting it out and retaining part for the new build would make the new build liable for 20% VAT. b) Leaving it empty for two years and retaining part for the new build would make the new build liable for 5% VAT (as it qualifies as an empty building).

Standard (eg daytime) electricity is roughly four times the cost of mains gas. Scroll down this page to the table.. https://nottenergy.com/resources/energy-cost-comparison/ So an electric ASHP (heat pump) with a COP of 4 gets you back to the same ball park price as mains gas. Ok so maybe possible to get a better electricity deal than assumed by the Nottingham web site but you get the general idea.

+1 In addition to planning permission I suspect there will be a lot of other issues just to make it habitable and legal for renting out.. New water, gas and electric supplies and meters needed. Electric circuits need separating from existing house and connecting to new meter and Consumer Unit. Heating system ? New boiler required? New sewer connection (existing WC uses sewer connection of existing house) Possibly other things to meet building regs such as... Exterior doors (fire regs). Sound proofing of wall between new and existing house. EPC (needed for renting)

I see it's made from iron oxide so might stain any wood like oak badly.

I thought trailing edge dimmers were better for LEDs?

I believe the roof light over 150mm issue would mean planning permission is required. However... Would the converted garage and roof light meet the rules for a side extension? Eg It would it be less than 4m high (3m within 2m of the boundary)? If so then you could demolish the garage and rebuild it as a side extension under permitted development. I'm not suggesting you do that but it means it would be hard for the planners to refuse permission for what you actually do want to do. If you just went ahead without planning permission I think they would be unlikely to initiate enforcement action unless there was a complaint buy a neighbour. If a neighbour was to complain the planners might feel obliged to initiate enforcement action but you could at that point submit a retrospective planning application. My guess is it would be waived through because they know you could build what you want by knocking down the garage and rebuilding it under the rules for a side extension. One option would be to apply for a CLD to knock the garage down and rebuild it within the permitted development rules for a side extension. They would not be able to refuse this. Then instead of knocking it all down just do the conversation you want. The end result would match the drawings submitted with the CLD.

I think they are (over) concerned the ply wouldn't be well fixed to the joists due to firings in between. Perhaps could be solved by tapering the joists or raising one end of the joist (firings on the underside to level the plasterboard?).

I can't really see a problem with long pipes between heat exchanger and outside. It might be possible to get condensation in the outflow pipe hence the need for a fall. Our grill is in the eaves so getting a fall wasn't a problem. Never seen any water come out, nor from the eat exchanger drain tube.

Search eBay for mortice lock spindle and buy a longer one. Cut to length so it can't dissapear into the window.

Normally you support and then cut out a section of one rafter. Then fit doublers around the opening. Not sure if can do this with trusses. Might need input from an SE.

You need.. . 1) A CAD program like Fusion 360 (to do the design and export .stl files) and 2) A Slicer program like Cura (to turn the .stl files into gcode to send to the printer). Both are still free. Fusion 360 recently changed their licenses but you can still get a free "Personal" license. https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists It doesn't come with telephone support but there are loads of free videos explaining how to use it. Only other thing you might need is an SD memory card... It is possible to connect most printers directly to your computer by USB but I'm using a small SD card and USB card reader to transfer the gcode files as my printer is in another room. Will email the files.

Ok, if you change your mind and would like them printed just let me know. The original stl had 4 components in it. I was able to load it into Fusion 360 and create separate stl files for each part allowing each to be printed separately and in different colours. The two larger parts will have print times of about 4 hours each and the smaller two around 10 - 20 mins. If you would like the Fusion 360 file I created or the stl for the individual parts send me a PM with an email address.

That will fit on my printer. I couldn't see any print settings recommended for that design but I loaded the stl into Cura to see how long the print would take with my default settings of 0.3 layer height and 25% infill. It said it was about a 12 hour print for all three parts at once. I'll have a look to see if I can separate them or speed it up somehow. I'd need to do some maintenance on my printer before trying a 12 hour print - I have a squeaky bearing in a belt tensioner.

Stone interior window sills are common enough in the EU that they are sold in Belgian DIY stores. I brought one over with me as a sample when we built our place. Have since used it as a shelf behind a wc. Looks like polished marble.

I Google translated the text on that Tinkercad page and it said... "With this adapter 20V Ferrex machines from Aldi can be operated with Makita 18V batteries. I developed it for the battery blower and the battery compressor. The contacts in the adapter come from a 2.0Ah Ferrexakku." Is that the right way around for you? Or has Google translate messed up?

I'll have a look at that link when I get home (Son number 2 just passed his driving test 10 mins ago).