Temp

You need.. . 1) A CAD program like Fusion 360 (to do the design and export .stl files) and 2) A Slicer program like Cura (to turn the .stl files into gcode to send to the printer). Both are still free. Fusion 360 recently changed their licenses but you can still get a free "Personal" license. https://www.autodesk.com/campaigns/fusion-360-for-hobbyists It doesn't come with telephone support but there are loads of free videos explaining how to use it. Only other thing you might need is an SD memory card... It is possible to connect most printers directly to your computer by USB but I'm using a small SD card and USB card reader to transfer the gcode files as my printer is in another room. Will email the files.

Ok, if you change your mind and would like them printed just let me know. The original stl had 4 components in it. I was able to load it into Fusion 360 and create separate stl files for each part allowing each to be printed separately and in different colours. The two larger parts will have print times of about 4 hours each and the smaller two around 10 - 20 mins. If you would like the Fusion 360 file I created or the stl for the individual parts send me a PM with an email address.

That will fit on my printer. I couldn't see any print settings recommended for that design but I loaded the stl into Cura to see how long the print would take with my default settings of 0.3 layer height and 25% infill. It said it was about a 12 hour print for all three parts at once. I'll have a look to see if I can separate them or speed it up somehow. I'd need to do some maintenance on my printer before trying a 12 hour print - I have a squeaky bearing in a belt tensioner.

Stone interior window sills are common enough in the EU that they are sold in Belgian DIY stores. I brought one over with me as a sample when we built our place. Have since used it as a shelf behind a wc. Looks like polished marble.

I Google translated the text on that Tinkercad page and it said... "With this adapter 20V Ferrex machines from Aldi can be operated with Makita 18V batteries. I developed it for the battery blower and the battery compressor. The contacts in the adapter come from a 2.0Ah Ferrexakku." Is that the right way around for you? Or has Google translate messed up?

I'll have a look at that link when I get home (Son number 2 just passed his driving test 10 mins ago).

I googled log cabins in Plymouth (I think that's where the OP mentioned) and this site came up.. https://www.lastminute-cottages.co.uk/hot-tub-log-cabins-plymouth No real log cabins but there are a number of holiday "lodges" for rent in the Callington area that look similar to this one. Perhaps thats not too dissimilar to an A frame Log cabin to make getting PP feasible ? Callington is about 15 miles north west of Plymouth. Just a heads up: Be clear in any planning application that you want permission for a house to live in all year round not a holiday let (which you can't).

That looks like regular 28mm T&G. Google can find it. For example.. https://www.tuin.co.uk/Tongue-and-Groove-28mm-Timber.html but check the other dimensions.

If forced to submit a brochure I would add words to the D&A Statement that refer to the brochure as "illustrative of the type of product, final supplier to be decided later". They can always add a condition requiring you to get approval later just as they do for other materials and finishes.

Deleted as effectively duplicates what said above.

Our local privately owned and gated site was raided earlier this year. The newspaper reported that cannabis was found growing on the "unoccupied pitches". No wonder there is a shortage of pitches in the county :-)

Have a look to see if there is a video on YouTube explaining the advantages and disadvantages of resin vs filament printers. Mine is a cheap filament printer - the parts it produces are pretty strong but it can be very slow to print even medium size objects. I spend quite a bit of time optimising the design to reduce print time. It's also near impossible to print objects like the lattice cube that @Jeremy Harris has done above. I get issues with distortion that causes the print head to knock into previously printed layers. I could probably solve it by slowing down print speeds but I don't have the patience.

Try local stone/monumental mason. They usually have loads of stone offcuts accumulated over years. I got a bit to go under my wood stove from one in Peterborough. He had loads left over from worktops and wash stands.

Looks like I misunderstood. In my part of the world travellers buy the land from a farmer and put a few hundred tons of hardcore down before moving in without planning permission - I misunderstood "without permission" to mean "without planning permission".

Copy what @jfb did with a central post. I would also make a base to raise the logs off the ground using pressure treated timber or just spare bricks with no mortar between (to improve air flow and drainage).

Very nice @jfb.

Your first task is to find land that stands a chance of getting planning permission for a log house. It's possible that the reason there are few suppliers is that it's not a common vernacular in the UK - so planning rules mean demand is low.

I guess this may also affect anyone that wants to claim unregistered land and incorporate it into their garden... https://www.thesun.co.uk/news/10268079/police-given-powers-arrest-travellers-and-seize-caravans/

My mother in law was also an early PV adopter getting max FIT. When she died we had the job of selling her house. Not a single potential buyer asked about the PV income. It was rented out for awhile and even the tennants didn't care. For some months they didn't notice the RCD had tripped out following a thunder storm. The man that eventually purchased the house wanted it as a buy to let and I had to chase him several times for his address to send the company paying the FIT to get it transferred. A year after the sale we were sent a large FIT cheque because it turned out the FIT transfer hadn't gone through for some reason - so he hadn't even noticed he wasn't getting the money. I never knew it was so hard to give it away.

Google zip kicker.

I think all/most 110mm pipe can be solvent welded but Google says shouldn't use solvent welds below ground.

Local planning guidance varies a lot. Some council's have detailed policies on wind energy and others have no written policy at all. It would be essential to take any such written local policies into account, not least because appeal officers place great weight on policies that have been through public consultation and signed off as consistent with the National Planning Policy Framework (NPPF). In my area, where we already have many wind farms and individual turbines, they employed landscape experts to assess which areas were more or less sensitive to wind energy development and then workout which areas still had capacity to take additional turbines/wind farms without adverse cumulative impact. Heavy reading... Main SPD.. https://www.huntingdonshire.gov.uk/media/1238/wind-energy-development-in-huntingdonshire-2014.pdf Brief guidance.. https://www.huntingdonshire.gov.uk/media/2360/wind-turbine-developments-guidance-note.pdf From a planning perspective I would ask your planning department if they have an SPD on renewable or wind energy.

Just wanted to add that not all pipe can be solvent welded. For example pipe designed for push fittings often can't be solvent welded (and frequently it's a slightly different diameter despite being nominally the same). Test the solvent on the existing pipe as you might need a strap on boss instead.

Yes. You could probably save by digging the holes both sides yourself.. https://www.trenchlesssolutions.co.uk/moling-110mm-drain/ Would depend on what the ground is like.

Not me but Google suggests "Buttonfix" are worth a look. Good reviews on Amazon. Several types. Look simple enough.