Temp

+1 The tricky part is generating the Boiler Enable (BE) signal that turns on the boiler. Something needs perform a logical OR function. In your case this would be.. BE = UFH or Rads or DHW. You can't really do this by connecting all the stats together because you get unwanted interactions (for example the Rad stat might turn on the UFH loop pump). You can do it with relays but it's better to use some sort of controller. Edit: Actually it might be possible to do it with just wire if the zone valves have contacts that make when the valve opens.

I'm just being sarcastic. Planners expect developers to sell a proportion of the houses on a new estate at less than 80% of the market value and require any buyer to do the same via a clause in the contract. Obviously these aren't for sale but how much would they loose if they were sold off?

Very interesting but which one is the affordable house they are selling at 80% of the market value :-)

T That's looking like the best option. I got two weeks before I'm due to visit them.

Relative has asked if I can fit some Duracell LV outside lights but ideally wants a PIR/Dusk sensor. The Duracell LV range appears to be 18V DC plug and play but I haven't seen them yet. Don't think they have a PIR sensor in the range. Bit of a long shot but does anyone know if 18V IP rated PIR sensors exist?' I'v seen some rated for 12V-24V but they dont appear to be IP rated, eg they are for indoor use.

Is water is ok for petrol fires?

Looks like I misunderstood. I thought one of the photos in the OP was a house to which you were adding a porch!

If you need a hot water store for the bath I would also use it for the shower.

I'm not sure an oak framed porch is right for the house. I think something modern in glass might be better. Flat glass roof, glass wall on the left. Open at the front or a glass door so you can still see the existing front door. Probably not what you want but that was my first instinct.

It's not illegal to add a 20% markup but it would be to add 20% and say it's VAT when it isn't.

This bit also went missing... https://www.gov.uk/hmrc-internal-manuals/capital-gains-manual/cg65243

Sorry once again the formatting has gone wrong and the editor won't let me fix it. Grrr. How do I make quote tags visible so I can edit them? One missplaced / and the formatting is spammed up and I can't fix it, presumably because quotes aren't meant to be edited?

Try... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/private-residence-relief-hs283-self-assessment-helpsheet/hs283-private-residence-relief-2019

I'm also confused... So they are intended to be used like normal actuators but (with auto balancing via loop temperature sensors) but @JSHarris has an extra one configured to replace the mixer so it controls the flow temperature to the floor? Any chance of a diagram?

Are there any nice roof beams/posts you would want to retain if converted? Would they limit how much insulation you can fit between them without covering them up? With a new building you can set them lower, below whatever thickness of insulation you like. Calculate CO2 reduction over life of the building :-)

We have a beam and block first floor that has two quite deep steel UBs to reduce the span of the concrete beams. The B&B floor rests on the lower flange just like your hollow core. The tops of the UB project above the top of the blocks. These were hidden in the insulation layer before adding UFH in screed on top.

We quite like having the master bathroom on its own zone. That way we can have it toasty first thing without heating the bedrooms to the same extent. We're using a Heatmiser stat with remote sensor for the bathroom. We have several computers in one bedroom and that would probably get too hot if it was on same zone/stat as other bedrooms.

Not sure if this link will work but it's to the data sheet for another valve that needs the flow 10C higher than the output. Note 1 suggests this is some sort of safety feature when the valve is used to control the water temperature of a tap or bath. They say its to ensure the valve shuts off if the cold supply fails. https://www.arrowvalves.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/pdfs/tmv5213datasheet.pdf

That sounds like the valve might have a limited range. Eg it can't mix 100% flow and 0% return but limits at say 90% flow and 10% return?

I expect you have already tried this or can't but... I would turn on the cold supply and run cold out of the shower, tap and to the WC to get the pipes cold. Then turn off the cold supply and run the kitchen taps. Then feel the temperature of the cold pipes at the shower and the bathroom tap. If one of those is now warm the problem will be with that device.

This one appears to have grub screw at the wall end allowing the end to be rotated. Glass end can also be rotated. https://www.kerolhardware.co.uk/shower-stabiliser-bar/multi-angle-wall-to-glass-support-bar.html Looks like it will do just about anything.

300-480mm https://www.kerolhardware.co.uk/shower-stabiliser-bar/wall-to-glass-support-bar-with-45-degree-sleeve.html 290mm https://www.kerolhardware.co.uk/shower-stabiliser-bar/multi-angle-wall-to-glass-support-bar.html

In case it helps... With many you can cut the bar to length and reattach the end fittings.

No need for that. The crap that can build up is corrosion products. Put corrosion inhibitor in it. Follow makers instructions on the concentration required - more than one bottle maybe needed.

Google found a bit about its history here.. https://www.getsurrey.co.uk/news/local-news/concrete-elephants-50th-birthday-trumpeted-6347851