Temp

Try... https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/private-residence-relief-hs283-self-assessment-helpsheet/hs283-private-residence-relief-2019

I'm also confused... So they are intended to be used like normal actuators but (with auto balancing via loop temperature sensors) but @JSHarris has an extra one configured to replace the mixer so it controls the flow temperature to the floor? Any chance of a diagram?

Are there any nice roof beams/posts you would want to retain if converted? Would they limit how much insulation you can fit between them without covering them up? With a new building you can set them lower, below whatever thickness of insulation you like. Calculate CO2 reduction over life of the building :-)

We have a beam and block first floor that has two quite deep steel UBs to reduce the span of the concrete beams. The B&B floor rests on the lower flange just like your hollow core. The tops of the UB project above the top of the blocks. These were hidden in the insulation layer before adding UFH in screed on top.

We quite like having the master bathroom on its own zone. That way we can have it toasty first thing without heating the bedrooms to the same extent. We're using a Heatmiser stat with remote sensor for the bathroom. We have several computers in one bedroom and that would probably get too hot if it was on same zone/stat as other bedrooms.

Not sure if this link will work but it's to the data sheet for another valve that needs the flow 10C higher than the output. Note 1 suggests this is some sort of safety feature when the valve is used to control the water temperature of a tap or bath. They say its to ensure the valve shuts off if the cold supply fails. https://www.arrowvalves.co.uk/media/wysiwyg/pdfs/tmv5213datasheet.pdf

That sounds like the valve might have a limited range. Eg it can't mix 100% flow and 0% return but limits at say 90% flow and 10% return?

I expect you have already tried this or can't but... I would turn on the cold supply and run cold out of the shower, tap and to the WC to get the pipes cold. Then turn off the cold supply and run the kitchen taps. Then feel the temperature of the cold pipes at the shower and the bathroom tap. If one of those is now warm the problem will be with that device.

This one appears to have grub screw at the wall end allowing the end to be rotated. Glass end can also be rotated. https://www.kerolhardware.co.uk/shower-stabiliser-bar/multi-angle-wall-to-glass-support-bar.html Looks like it will do just about anything.

300-480mm https://www.kerolhardware.co.uk/shower-stabiliser-bar/wall-to-glass-support-bar-with-45-degree-sleeve.html 290mm https://www.kerolhardware.co.uk/shower-stabiliser-bar/multi-angle-wall-to-glass-support-bar.html

In case it helps... With many you can cut the bar to length and reattach the end fittings.

No need for that. The crap that can build up is corrosion products. Put corrosion inhibitor in it. Follow makers instructions on the concentration required - more than one bottle maybe needed.

Google found a bit about its history here.. https://www.getsurrey.co.uk/news/local-news/concrete-elephants-50th-birthday-trumpeted-6347851

There might be an easier way but here is my idea for a filling port for pressurised systems. To add inhibitor you would switch off the system and close valves A and B. Then open C and D to drain the 1L tank. Then close D and pour inhibitor into the tank via the funnel. Then close C and reopen A and B. Switch system back on.

7. Make it easy to put corrosion inhibitor in the system ! I seem to be banging on about corrosion inhibitor at the moment. Must be the time of year. I'm sceptical of annual maintenance contracts. They cover servicing but most do NOT include checking or topping up the corrosion inhibitor. Yet this is the most important thing you can do to keep your system reliable. Without it over time sludge builds up and can block pipes and pumps and cause leaks in the boiler and rads. The first you know about it is the system fails to work when you switch on the heating in September/October. The sludge has settled out over summer and blocked a pipe. When the service man rocks up he tells you the contract doesn't cover the first power flush. You are faced with a bill of £300-£800. Sometimes they tell you its mandatory to have one or they won't cover you any more. You can shop around and get a power flush done by another company but there are quite a few sharks out there. Adding corrosion inhibitor like Fernox F1 can help prevent the problem... If your system is vented you can just tip a bottle or three into the header tank but this can mean a climb into the loft. If your system is pressurised you have to lower the pressure and use a kit to inject the stuff into a radiator bleed valve or similar. Then repressurise the system. This would be a lot easier if there was a "filling port". See my next post in a moment.

They don't usually have holes. Most have a texture/pattern both sides that helps the adhesive bond it to the floor and tiles. Some are waterproof and can provide a form of tanking. BAL have a tech guide... https://www.bal-adhesives.com/a-technical-guide-to-uncoupling-systems/ There are also several vids on youtube. Search "Decoupling mat" or "uncoupling mat".

Think I would turn turn the rolls around, hammer them in well, CT1 bead over the lot eg fill groove including over lead rolls.

I had a rented house once with rads full of sludge. Just connected a hose to the drain and ran it outside to a man hole. I emptied, refilled and ran the heating a few times to clean it out. Mine was vented but yours is probably pressurised. So after connecting the hose and opening the drain valve you may need to open the filling loop valve to force fresh water in and old out. After its all working remember to put corrosion inhibitor like Fernox F1 in the system. May need more than a few bottles to get the right concentration.

Double check the actuators... I had a problem where the wax actuator appeared to open (the button on top came up) but the pin was stuck down so no water was flowing. Removed head and pulled gently on the pin and it opened.

Welcome Rob. We have had a Grant Oil boiler feeding a Thermal Store and UFH for 12 years. It gets serviced when we remember which is probably every two years. Its been fine. Service engineer seems to like its Riello burner. However some tips... As far as I can tell no domestic oil boiler is fully modulating. The burner is either fully on or fully off. There is no variable mode like there is for gas boilers. This means that when your UFH only needs a little heat an oil boiler may short cycle (switch on and off frequently). This is a bit like driving a car driving in city traffic compared to the motorway. Adding a thermal store or buffer tank between the boiler and UFH allows the burner to run flat out without short cycling at times of low demand. However Thermal stores and buffer tanks leak heat and take up space so it's a bit swings and roundabouts. Another thing we found was that our boiler was slightly too powerful. So we fitted a smaller jet in the burner. This reduced the boiler power and improved efficiency a few % (according to the manual). Our Grant boiler was made in about 2006 and has a steel heat exchanger which requires a minimum return temperature of 40C to prevent corrosion. To ensure this is always the case we have a mixer which returns some of the hot flow to the boiler return if the return is below 40C. We also keep the corrosion inhibitor topped up. Whichever boiler you choose check if it needs a return mixer. Perhaps not all do.

Think about what features you want. At the very least I would want stats that can handle the clocks going forwards and back automatically but perhaps you also want to be able to change settings while on holiday using your mobile phone? You also need to know if your wiring centre needs 12V or 230V stats? I think most are 12V but not all? Our UFH stats can be set to four different temperatures per day which we typically have set to.. Waking up 21c Daytime 18c Evening 21c Night 16c The time at which it changes temperature can be altered as well as the temperature. You can also have a different set of times and temperature s at the weekend (eg if you get up early or want it warmer in the daytime). Do you have separate zones/loops for the bathroom? If so companies like Heatmiser do a stat with a remote sensor. Sensor goes in the bathroom, display panel goes outside bathroom door (to avoid damage by high humidity).

The following sites appear to be able to send you 1:10,000 maps.. Moorland only?.. https://www.promap.co.uk/maps-and-data/current-mapping/os-mastermap/ https://www.emapsite.com/landing/plans-for-the-property-professional/?p=OSVMLDetailedStreetPlan

Welcome Tim, I grew up in Brackendale Rd in Camberley. Lived there until about 1978. Was there when the M3 was built. Went to Frimley Park and then France Hill Schools. Not been back there for years as all family I moved away. I gather the concrete pipe Elephant has been moved but might still exist?

We used flexible adhesive and grout and it wasn't enough in our case. I suggested a decoupling mat but I would seek advice from somewhere like BAL Adhesives to be on the safe side.