Temp

Not quite sure I understand what you want to do. Do you want to raise and level an area of grass 6m x 4m roughly in the foreground of the photo? I definitely would not put MOT Type 1 hardcore under turf. MOT type 1 isn't even guaranteed to be permeable. I'd use topsoil only, perhaps use different grades/quality to save cost. Will it need a small retaining wall after it's been raised? Can you get bricks to match the existing wall?

Sadly both Planning and Building Control are under resourced and overworked. Years ago you could get lots of free advice from both. These days it's a different matter. Planning will hardly talk to you until you pay the pre-application advice fee and even then they aren't always very responsive. I was over a year in the pre-application stage but that's an exception. Building control are usually more helpful but again they may not want to spend time on a development that hasn't yet got planning permission especially as you haven't paid the fee yet. Where there are structural questions or similar design issues Building Control will check the design has been done and validated by a suitably qualified person but might not actually check the details themselves. They may give some advice but will be reluctant to be in any way "responsible for the design". They expect "you" to submit a design package that meets the regs and is supported by any necessary calculations. They don't always have time to explain how to change a non-compliant design to make it comply. When an architect designs a new house he does so with knowledge of the building regulations to avoid problems later. You might have to hire someone familiar with the building regs to provide input for your planning application. Then submit the planning application. Once thats granted proceed with the Building Warrant Application. I should add I'm more familiar with the system in England. Others here know Scottish regs.

If its a timber barn it might it have value to someone else.

I think what helped us was our architect producing a so called street scene drawing. This was a black pen ink and green watercolour sketch showing our house, the church on the left and 16C cottage on the right. It was largely imaginary because there was/is nowhere you could/can actually stand and see all three buildings side by side due to trees and hedges, but it showed how the style of each went together. I think a large part of its success was the use of ink and water colour to give a more consistent style to all three buildings. It probably wouldn't have worked as well had he produced a photo montage or an accurate computer model. As for a D&A statement I think that would depend on the plot and the reasons planners might have for rejecting. For example if they have already said you are unlikely to get PP because of xyz then I think you need to address xyz somewhere in the application. The D&A statement is a reasonable place to do that.

If you happen to have one of those soldering irons that heat up "instantly" you, can replace the bit with a length of piano wire formed into a loop with shoulders. Run that down the PIR for nice neat u channels.

Be careful what you use. Cats sometimes like gravel or shingle. Too much like cat litter. I'd be tempted to hire a digger and a skip, get the rubble/concrete out and some new topsoil in so plants will grow. Another possibility might be raised beds made from railway sleepers? Kids might use them as seats unless you get lots of trailing plants in them.

I know there are lots of companies that make metal cladding but I don't know if there are off the shelf designs for a porch like that or if you need an architect to design something bespoke. The detailing will be important not only to prevent leaks but also how it weathers. One source lists a few suppliers of metal cladding.. elZinc (example. https://www.instagram.com/p/CAMuyVHFMQp/) KME Mazzonetto NedZinc Prefa

According to this.. https://www.onedome.com/search/property/F4912CDCDA66EC_943877?utm_source=trovit&utm_medium=affiliates They were build by Palmer Homes.. https://www.palmerhomes.co.uk/ Perhaps they would tell you?

Self closers aren't required in a normal house but might be in an HMO or similar. The whole door and frame needs to meet the required fire rating. The door manufacturer should provide instructions regarding the installation and the glass spec needed to achieve that if they don't provide it with the door. I might be wrong but I have a feeling glass may need to have wire mesh in it? Or perhaps that's just FD60 not FD30??

If you have the headroom it might be better to work out how tall the new joists would need to be if the existing ceiling joists don't carry any of the load. Then put the new ones in 1" above the top of the plasterboard. Dont bolt them to the existing joists (except perhaps at the ends). That way there is no new load on the existing joists and fewer cracks in the plaster in rooms below

Yes. I would also show them the valuation as 22% is quite a chunk. Just remember they may decide to take it off the market for a year or two.

+1 Doesn't need to be super thick. If it's going to be hot weather you might consider getting enough to put some on top of the screed as well (as soon as it can be walked on). That will help stop water loss and slow the drying a bit to reduce possibility of cracking. Where two rooms of screed meet at a doorway consider forming a deliberate "crack" (aka expansion gap) across the door. Otherwise you may get a nice curved crack like we did !

+1 It's planning status is now "separate dwelling" so as far as the planners are concerned you are free to split the title and sell the annex as a separate house if you wish. If that's what you plan to do then remember you may need Permission from your mortgage company and they may want you to repay off a fraction of the mortgage with the proceeds of the sale. You may also need to split the utilities so the annex has its own water, electric, gas, sewerage etc After the title is split you should probably tell your insurance company about the change from detached to semi-detached.

Sorry if this is obvious but are you just pressing it briefly or are you holding it down down for several seconds to reset the boiler? The web says.. F28 means it's tried to light a few times without success and given up. F29 means the flame was on but went out for some reason. So if it is been reset and you get F29 again that suggests I did fire up but then went out. Did you turn all the cylinders fully on or just one?

I would also make sure you have some black duct and 3/8" polyprop draw rope ready for when the engineers come to lay the cable. Just ask them if there is any chance they can lay short lengths across their trench when they backfill to make it safer for you later.

Welcome to the forum. You might also be interested in The Paving Expert website as it has tons of stuff relating to hard landscaping, such as drainage, retaining walls, paving, paths, patios etc.. https://www.pavingexpert.com/ There is such a lot on there I find it best to search the index. https://www.pavingexpert.com/pavindex

Yes normally 4 years except when the breech of planning involves a change of use (eg residential building built on agricultural land) or its a breech of a planning condition in which case it's 10 years. You would be advised to get a letter or other evidence from the seller that helps prove when the building was finished. There is no limit on Building Regulations enforcement as much of the regulations relate to safety. You could ask him to take out an insurance policy to cover you against building control turning up and insisting you make expensive changes. That wouldn't cover you if you invite building control.

You also need to think about the tax implications... https://www.guestready.com/blog/airbnb-income-tax/

https://www.jwpc.co.uk/does-my-airbnb-need-planning-permission/#:~:text=The success of temporary short,shows no sign of abating.&text=However%2C the continuous letting of,planning permission may be required.

Seems some old meters charged for export.. https://www.which.co.uk/news/2020/06/solar-panel-owner-misses-out-on-eight-years-of-electricity-savings/

Seems some old meters charged for export.. https://www.which.co.uk/news/2020/06/solar-panel-owner-misses-out-on-eight-years-of-electricity-savings/

My current 3D printing project is a 1/3rd scale version of this Greek bronze Griffon currently in The Metropolitan Museum of Art. The print has been done and painted in white primer and I'm currently copper plating some test pieces to figure out how to get a decent finish. https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/255367

I think it would be difficult to make it look convincing. Think i'd just go for one or the other and plant some climbing plants..

Think this is the sort of thing we have, it's a standard pressure reduction valve. https://www.screwfix.com/c/heating-plumbing/pressure-reducing-valves/cat3830010 They usually come preset to 3bar but there is a screw for adjustment, sometimes hidden under a warranty sticker. I find they do need adjusting to increase flow rate a bit every few years. Perhaps because filter gets scaled up? Honeywell is probably the best make.

How about this one that comes with a cover.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Chrome-Waste-Pipe-32mm-35mm-to-Plastic-Adaptor-Coupling-with-Chrome-Wall-Shroud-/263217259632 Check out the photos.