Temp

Our basin is 170mm high and about 275mm from plughole to spout. Fitted a pressure regulator to hot and stop water splashing.

Welcome to the forum. How far have you got? Planning Permission? Building Regs? CIL Exemption sorted? https://www.gov.uk/guidance/community-infrastructure-levy#para049

Well you also need to pay taxes.

Looks like there might be plastic/chrome adaptors or am I looking at the wrong thing?... https://hertsplumbingsupplies.co.uk/chrome-waste-fittings/1084-mcalpine-32mm-32mmeuro-125-adaptor-mcalpine-abs32-35g-cb-5036484061997.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwoPL2BRDxARIsAEMm9y8618dKoDiune6T0C4OMoLq-AfZGhbM96zyYSswEkMi7diQlVP-b_UaAl6VEALw_wcB Found using.. https://www.google.com/search?q=euro+32mm+to+uk+chrome+plated+straight+connector+mcalpine-32g-cb&oq=euro+32mm+to+uk+chrome+&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j33.13891j0j8&client=tablet-android-pega&sourceid=chrome-mobile&ie=UTF-8

Can you elaborate? Why is it so expensive? We were required to provide a level entry by the building regs. Love it now. So much easier when you want to get something like a washing machine in on a trolley. I reckon the mistake people make is to build a house and then worry they have to add a ramp. Just design it level in the first place.

Might want to check out what the ceiling is made of. I'm sure there must be a 30min fire barrier between a garage and habitable room (like a master bedroom). Usually that's achieved with plasterboard ceiling in the garage but you mentioned it's uPVC. Perhaps there is plasterboard or some alternative above the uPVC?

Google found this YouTube video for a simple project with visual display. Uses a library called TkInter.

https://www.cheffins.co.uk/about/news/view,landowners-to-address-abandoned-rural-property_299.htm

I've read that it's quite hard for "residential use" status to be lost. https://www.planningresource.co.uk/article/1209006/material-change-use-q---dcp-section-432

If it's a restoration using an existing mains supply you need to start by checking both the pressure and the flow rate from the mains is adequate for what you want. If not then you may need to get it upgraded. The performance of the mains supply may partly dictate the best solution. If you had to heat the water instantly (like an electric shower or combi boiler does) the power required might be 10-12kW per shower. So three showers and some left over would likely need a 40kW+ boiler to run indefinitely but is that really necessary? When we built our house one company proposed a solution using two boilers. We didn't go down that route in the end but can see it might make sense in some situations, for example in a large house with showers far apart it might make sense for one to be a combi boiler feeding one of the showers. We ended up with a thermal store fitted with two heat exchangers. Give us mains pressure hot water everywhere. Down side is it leaks quite a lot of heat into the room it's in.

Put some 3D printed cucumbers up there... https://youtu.be/cNycdfFEgBc

Whats the ground like? Screw in anchor for 4x4 post. Shop around as might well find cheaper versions.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mayne-580D-BK-Dig-Ground-Anchor/dp/B00191RWKA

Line of bricks or similar like stepping stones?

You can have a 0.5" gap or a gap that is 0.5" at the top but which widens out underneath.

How about this example.. £39,000 plus legal costs for sending email instead of the commencement form.. https://www.burges-salmon.com/news-and-insight/legal-updates/failure-to-serve-a-cil-notice-recent-lessons-learned-from-the-high-court/ He went to appeal and lost..

That's what we do. Cut out 3" sections and the rest will die off. Quite a lot just falls off when it's dead.

Its there to reduce the amount of rain splashing up onto the wall above the DPC. Many garden centres have a range of different colours of granite chips and gravel. Perhaps grey would less conspicuous? Perhaps a multi colour wouldn't show dirt as much?

I think you are ok because of the way "height" is defined on sloping ground. This will be familiar to people building extensions or outbuildings on sloping ground as it also applies to the way the eaves and ridge height are defined.. http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/596/pdfs/uksi_20150596_en.pdf See also.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/permitted-development-rights-for-householders-technical-guidance Page 6 See also someone complaining about similar decking on sloping ground.. https://www.gardenlaw.co.uk/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=20009#p188412 You should probably check with the planners just in case I'm looking at out of date regs but I reckon its fine at least as far as planning regs go. Neighbourly relations are another matter. There is one important point. If you were to build the deck and then later extend it, the new part would be treated as a separate development. It's height would be measured from the highest ground adjacent to it, not the highest point adjacent to the original deck. So build it all in one go.

It's based on what I did for a 6m*6m slab. The hardest part was levelling the concrete. The delivery driver took one look at me and the wife and recommend adding a bit more water to make it easier for us before unloading the first bit into my rented dumper. It was physically hard work raking it into corners and then rubbing a beam back and forth across the top of the shuttering while trying to scrape it flat.

https://www.hunker.com/12001768/how-to-remove-glue-from-brick But I think I would try putting some glue on spare brick first to see if it works or makes a worse mess.

What does Building Control say? I've heard some press for a cavity but slips seem to work fine in other countries.

Think only one way to find out.

Google found a video of someone spraying Zinsser 123 on railings but only limited info in the description, none in the video. Elsewhere they say clean the sprayer with meths but some reports say it's difficult to clean up?

Hardibacker board is seriously strong and heavy, ideal for the heavy stone tiles we used in our bathroom. It's available in two thicknesses 6 and 12mm. The 12mm over studwork is rock solid. Not sure where/if I would use the 6mm. You should fix heavy things like cupboards to studs but lighter things could be fixed into 12mm Hardibacker using screws. The problem with Hardibacker board is cutting it. You can score and snap it but that's not always possible (eg curves or access panel holes in middle of sheets). Even TCT blades in a jigsaw struggle to cut it. It would reasonable to only use it behind a shower or bath and regular waterproof plasterboard elsewhere. I've also used Wedi board which is a foam board covered with a thin fibreglass and cement skim. This is very nice to work with if making a tiled washstand or similar. Can be easily cut with hand saw. Glued with some builders Adhesives. Being foam based it's difficult to fix to. Screws would just pull out.

Zinsser 123 Primer Sealer then Zinsser Perma-White Interior Mould Resistant Paint. No idea if you can spray it. If not use it anyway on a roller. We had bunch of issues with other paint on the ceiling above our shower. Then someone here recommend Zinsser and it's been fine since. The ceiling actually drips with water sometimes.