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Your tennant might not thank you. Electricity costs at least three times gas per kWh. https://nottenergy.com/resources/energy-cost-comparison/ Pence per kWh (after boiler efficiency)... Electricity Online Rate 19.43 p/kWh Mains Gas Online Rate 3.44 p/kWh I guess if you aren't paying much for gas the absolute increase won't seem so bad.

DALI/PUSH/1-10V dimming: What’s the difference and which to choose?.. https://www.theverge.com/platform/amp/2020/11/11/21559929/ring-video-doorbell-2nd-gen-fire-concerns-recall-hazard-screws-installation 0–10V, DALI AND OTHER LIGHTING CONTROL SYSTEM PROTOCOLS COMPARED https://www.cmd-ltd.com/advice-centre/lighting-control-systems/0-10v-dali-and-other-lighting-control-system-protocols-compared/ I'd avoid Push dimming.

I might be wrong but I don't think there has been a national change. Might be something in the local plan or a local Suplimentary Planning Policy Document (SPPD).

The rules determine if the Party Wall Act applies BUT that doesnt necessarily mean you must have a full blown PW Agreement drawn up by expensive surveyors. Depends if you are on good terms and he's happy with the proposed work. Point out screwed piles are less disruptive than hammered or deep trench foundations. If your neighbour is happy with your plans you just need to exchange letters. Example content down this page.. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/party-wall-etc-act-1996-guidance#explanatory-booklet See.. "Example letter 8: 3/6 metre notice" And "Example letter 9: positive acknowledgement of 3/6 metre notice"

+2 to Osmo Hardwax Oil (Although its not like a wax or an oil). Ours has been down 13 years in a hallway with two kids that have just turned 18. Doesnt need recoating yet.

Can't add much except.. check that the stats are controlling the right floor loops. We had two crossed over and took awhile to figure out what was going on because the stats were eventually being satisfied.

1 an 2 are fine 3 I think this type screws direct into concrete. Various sizes available.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-bright-zinc-plated-carbon-steel-concrete-bolts-m10-x-100mm-10-pack/5800p 4 Have you considered another layer of plasterboard over whole room to get rid of the step? Or nail together two bits of 2x4 to make a bit with a matching 15 mm step in it.

Any words on the receipt such as "paid in full"? Or "full and final settlement"? I don't know what you would need to get out of it. Legally and morally they are right.

I would say yes unless there it something in the contract that gets you off the hook... https://www.mytipsandadvice.co.uk/2017-10/errors-on-your-vat-invoices-UKTAVAAR_EU07110401

You already have something there.. I guess they are too small or too far apart or?

That looks like his plan but the delay means loosing his builder so he's trying to find a way around it.

Is it a new building or an extension? There are two versions of Part L one for each. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/conservation-of-fuel-and-power-approved-document-l

Sorry if its obvious but the ridges of adhesive formed by a notched trowel allow you adjust the height and level the tiles. Ideally they should be squashed down until most of the gaps have gone but I like to make use of them to get all the tiles as level as possible with their neighbours. To do that I have a large rubber faced block that my dad called a "Blat" that looks a bit like a float. You used to be able to buy them but I made my last one.

I think I would find a local Structural Engineer to come take a look. Ask him to quote for a visit and verbal opinion.

https://www.simplybusiness.co.uk/knowledge/articles/2016/01/indemnity-insurance-building-regulations/#:~:text=The indemnity insurance is designed,t comply with building regulations.

Council near me says same.. https://www.east-northamptonshire.gov.uk/info/200162/existing_applications/1526/outcomes_of_a_building_control_application "Rejection notice If you do not provide enough information for your plans to show compliance with the Building Regulations we may issue a Rejection Notice. You may still start work if your plans have been rejected but should seek assistance from us before you commence. You may also re submit (resubmission) your plans with no further plan charge payable."

Google found.. http://www.benfieldattgroup.co.uk/knowledge-centre/advisory/building-regulations/building-regulations-application-refused/ "What if Building Regs Application Refused If your plans do not comply, you will be given a Refusal Notice. The reasons for rejection will be stated. This gives you a choice to put things right and resubmit. The refusal will not go on record (unlike a planning rejection) and resubmission is at no extra charge." But would be nice to find the same on a .gov website.

Ideally you would have all the bricks on site from the start so you can mix bricks from different pallets to avoid colour matching issues. Seem to be some Forterra bricks on ebay.

We have a lot of oak outside on our house with different finishes... Our paddock gate was untreated and took many years to go silver, along the way it went black and grew green "stuff" on the top rail. You might have to wait 6 years or more before its all silver. Our front door is treated with Sadolin. Coat of Sadolin classic light oak and several light coats of Sadolin Extra Satin Clear on top. Seems to last very well but it doesnt have any horizontal surfaces and those weather faster. We also have a lot of oak beams and posts (holding up porches and framing windows) i really want to keep these a nice honey colour. These were originally treated with Danish oil but that's a right pain. It needs recoating every year otherwise it starts going black as if untreated but slower. I ended up sanding it all off back to new wood. Gave it one coat of Dainish to colour it then three of OSMO UV Protection Oil. This is expensive but seems to last much longer than Danish oil.

Are the agricultural buildings suitable for conversion? More than 10 years old? There are permitted development rights that allow some agricultural buildings to be converted to houses.. https://www.burges-salmon.com/news-and-insight/legal-updates/permitted-development-rights-change-of-use-of-agricultural-buildings-to-residential/ Even if you don't want to convert them, the fact that you could might help a planning application to replace with a new dwelling.

+1 Its not the ladder its your shoulders that are the limitation.

Some go down as low as 38cm opening width. https://www.toolstation.com/werner-aluminium-loft-ladder/p40397?store=U2&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gclid=Cj0KCQiAy579BRCPARIsAB6QoIb8tiyFh0KrswOeW3itXoH80wP8mZBxcvwSCmfR3M78BowFT0RrIKQaArTZEALw_wcB * Minimum loft opening width 0.38m (1'3") https://www.toolstation.com/telesteps-loft-line-mini-loft-ladder/p53636 Mini hatch opening: 520 x 600mm https://www.toolstation.com/tb-davies-envirofold-loft-ladder/p63295 Loft Opening Length x Width:1200 x 550mm

Yes, the Self Build VAT reclaim scheme is only for people building a house for themselves or a relative to live in. However if you employ a builder to do everything (eg buy materials and build the houses) then he must zero rate everything to you. So in that case there would be no VAT to reclaim as none would have been paid. Many people employ a builder to construct the building to water tight stage and then they finish it off inside themselves. In that case the builder zero rates his bit to you and you reclaim the vat on the stuff you buy. Yes if the second house is for a relative to live in. The reclaim form notes at the back state: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/828064/VAT431NB_form_and_notes.pdf Note its your intention at the outset that matters. If they intend living in the house but something happens to make them change their mind then they _may_ still allow the reclaim. For example if their financial or work situation changed and it was no longer possible for them to live in it. No doubt each reason will be considered on its merits. The point is you cant go telling the bank one story and HMRC another as they might check You also need to be aware that the CIL exemption requires you to live in the property for three years after completion. It might be wise to split the land when its sold to you. There have been reports that it is difficult to get the land registry to split land at other times because of the law on covenants or something like that (you cannot enforce a covenant on yourself?). Otherwise you could split the title when/if you sell the second house. If you need a loan the bank may have a view on this. When you apply for planning permission it would definitely be better to get planning permission for both houses to be separately occupied dwellings. You don't want one lumbered with a condition making it a holiday home or preventing its separate occupation/sale.

Also worth mentioning that poles can affect visibility splays so mark your driveway and visibility splay on any plans you give openreach if that's an issue.

The details can make a difference but typical cost is £300 for a survey/quote and perhaps £2000 to do the work. However it might not be possible to find a location where the new pole can see the same points on all five houses. You should ask them to quote to provide your own connection at same time. If the pole is near your boundary you could consider running an underground cable to the pole so you dont have an overhead to your house. Then you can choose where the master socket goes, where to put your modem etc. If the work is necessary to allow your house to be built then I believe they should zero rate the work to you. See VAT notice 708. That would only be if you already have planning permission fir your house.