Temp

If it helps... I don't think the AAV pipe has to be straight up.

Ideally fill until a whole number of brick/block courses below DPC. Normally for "fully filled" I think that's 3 brick courses (or 1 block). Otherwise 6 brick (2 blocks). I think the minimum depth of concrete is 450mm but best check.

If it doesnt say anything in your deeds then I suspect you don't have to give any notice. I would tell them something like.. "At some point over the next 10 (?) weeks you will need to exercise your right to run services over their driveway in accordance with the terms of your deeds. You anticipate this will require trenches to be dug and may take y days to complete the work. Unfortunately you do not yet know when the work will be carried out as you are at the mercy of abc utility company. However you will endevour to keep them informed and give them as much notice as possible".

Hard to tell from photos so some of my comments might be wrong but.. The foundations look suspect/unclear to me. Have they reused an existing hardcore patio base or did they dig trenches? The design looks odd. Two pillars like that are very vulnerable. Would expect at least one to be tied into a wall. Are Building Control involved? Have they seen drawings or inspected the foundations? The form work for the lintel looks wrong. Doesn't extend far enough to the left? Bearing ends should be 100mm (?) at least so not long enough? The wood spacer blocks look to be in wrong place and will create voids in the lintel. Perhaps it's unfinished or not what they plan to use? No cavity wall? DPC?

I remember a similar one involving a parcel delivery man. He arrives with parcel that just fits through office door. Secretary distracts him while they move the door jam in an inch. Then she checks the address and tells him is for next door.

I reckon just loosen just the 4 hex with slots and try again. Might be stuck, give door bit of a shake. Will need to loosen all the hinges at same time if that's not obvious.

Think in England you include the bottom for rainwater soakaways. The half the depth issue might be something to do with water pressure in the hole?

You would have to look at local planning policy. Some councils mandate a certain ratio of car parking spaces to bedrooms. There could also be a requirement to carry out Bat surveys that can cause delays.

+1 Remember you claim the exemption using the proper forms and meet the other conditions required to avoid the CIL.

I think you have two options something like.. Carpet Underlay 18mm OSB or Flooring grade chipboard Routed and foiled EPS with UFH pipe between joists Insulation between joists Carpet Underlay Metal Heat spreader plates (just flat sheets) Routed Chipboard and UFH pipe 18mm OSB or Flooring grade chipboard Insulation between joists I don't think 18mm Routed Chipboard is strong enough on its own over joists. I believe its intended for use over concrete floors or similar.

Do they still charge you call time?

In my case it was plasterboard that became "pregnant" when I put too much expanding foam in the wall. Had to remove it as not enough access to try dissolving it.

Actually it seems they have switched to offering calls over WiFi https://www.4g.co.uk/news/ee-o2-three-and-vodafone-which-networks-offer-wi-fi-calling/

WiFi and 4/3g are totally different. Boosting WiFi has no effect on 4g. Some phone companies used to offer mini 3/4g base stations that provided a phone signal indoors and used your broadband connection but I suspect they have all stopped offering those now. There are some (illegal) mobile phone signal boosters that have an aerial outdoors, an amplifier and another aerial indoors. I half remember that another forum member has used one but perhaps I'm wrong. It's not me! Different phone companies use different masts. At my house the EE signal is stronger than Vodaphone for example so ask your friends around and compare network and signal strength. Changing network might improve things.

I've accidentally done something similar. Worse case it will be render and render board off to repair and replace. Could try dissolving the foam with a solvent? Try it on some scraps made for the purpose first.

The water cant push the air bubble down hill as it tends to float back up to the high point. Water actually flows past the bubble leaving it in place.

A week or two back I read that councils don't have the power to issue a second decision notice even to correct errors.. https://www.localgovernmentlawyer.co.uk/planning/318-planning-features/22731-the-finality-of-decisions They also only have 6 weeks to fix an error via court action.. https://www.tozers.co.uk/insights/council-seeks-to-overturn-planning-permission-it-issued-in-error

We have something similar in MDF. Looks just like plaster when joints filled and painted. However we had cracks appear at joints as it shrank slightly. Remade it with glued joints not just screws and it's been fine.

No, we had no blotches at all. Just a very slight colour change when sealed but it can't even remember if it went darker or lighter is was so minimal. Sorry.

Our small bore drainage (solvent weld) is in the insulation. The 110mm is in the ground. No problems.

https://news.sky.com/story/your-proposal-is-whack-council-worker-mistakenly-rejects-planning-applications-with-sarcastic-comments-and-decisions-are-legally-binding-12401881 'Your proposal is whack': Council worker mistakenly rejects planning applications with sarcastic comments - but decisions are legally binding Two applications to demolish separate pubs were both approved, with the responses "incy wincy spider" and "why am I doing this am I the chosen one". A junior council worker who thought they were testing a dummy website rejected and approved real planning applications, adding a sarcastic comment to each - with the decisions now legally binding. One applicant, a charity boss, was told by Swale Borough Council her plans were turned down because "Your proposal is whack", with a second comment adding, "No mate, proper whack". Five applications for Swale Borough Council were affected, as well as a sixth from Maidstone which was rejected with the reasons: "Don't even bother re-applying lol" and "not even joking lmao". Continues..

Afraid I went for the Stihl km 131 which is about £440 now. There are two versions with and without the bull bars. I think there is also a km 130 a bit cheaper. A good second hand unit would be worth considering. They also have 2 stroke models like the KM 56 and 94 which are more like £200-250 I think. Stihl don't like online discounting so many sellers require you to collect from their office. Supposedly so you can get "training" or some such. I don't use a chainsaw very frequently and got an unbranded two stroke one from Amazon to save money. The best strimmer head IMHO is the Echo Speed feed 400. It super easy to reload with line. Wish I'd discovered them years ago. They do two versions the "universal" version comes with adaptors to suit various other strimmers. The regular version doesn't have the adaptors. So I have an Echo 400 head fitted to a Ryobi Expand-it Strimmer attachment fitted to a Stihl KM 131. Only had to file some paint off the Ryobi to make it work on the Stihl.

I got fed up breaking Ryobi Expandit multi tool engines so got myself a Stihl 4 stroke equivalent. Its heavy but much more robust and takes third party attachments (hedge trimmer, strimmer, brush cutter, pole/chainsaw). If its heavily overgrown and just needs clearing once then a rented power scythe might be an option.

One manifold for the ground floor looks fine... You mention three zones (15, 35 and 31sqm). Even if the two largest (35 and 31 sqm) needed two loops each that's only a total of 5 ports (1+2+2 = 5). Manifolds come with different numbers of ports up to 12 or more. Consider adding a port for a towel rail?

We did pretty much what your tiler did. Layed the stone, waited 24 hours and sealed it with one coat then another 24 hours and grouted them. We put on another two coats later. Not sure its his fault unless the stone was soaking wet. If it was saturated he probably should have waited before sealing. Think I would try pointing a fan heater on one spot in a less conspicuous area to see if drying it will fix the problem.