Temp

How long has he been AWOL? He's not just on holiday or down with Covid?

You can also see the reclaim form here. Search it for "10 years". It asks you to provide evidence its been empty. Try council tax dept? https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/vat-refunds-for-diy-housebuilders-claim-form-and-notes-for-conversions-vat431c Some other things to think about... VAT: I know you plan to live in it but if circumstances change, do not rent it out without seeking tax advice. If you let out the property you may have to repay any VAT you saved under the scheme. This is because letting income is VAT exempt not zero rated. The difference may seem trivial but if something is exempt it means you can't reclaim so called "input vat" on your costs. House sales are zero rated so you can. Its not clear if this also applies to something like a property let via AirBnB. CIL: You mentioned a loft conversion. If this is big (close to or over 100sqm) you should check out the CIL rules. If they apply you might be exempt but only if you claim the exemption before work starts. The 100sqm rule is the total increase in floor area so it might apply if a small extension and loft conversion together add more than 100sqm.

In short.. If you buy materials from a builders merchant you pay 20% and reclaim 20%. If a tradesman supplies and fits materials then they charge you 5% on both labor AND materials and you reclaim 5% on both. In detail.. The important thing is to pay any trades you hire the correct 5% rate. If you pay 20% VAT on labor you can't reclaim it later as HMRC won't refund VAT paid in error. So when you get quotes make sure they say VAT at 5%. If not ask for them to be amended before you accept them. Some trades may question this if they aren't familiar with the rules. It may help if you give them a "certificate". This is essentially a letter from you stating that the work they are to carry out is on a property being reinstated after 10 years empty. Include your contact details, the site address and any planning permission reference numbers. There might be a template in VAT 708 or someone here can probably post one they wrote. If someone quotes to "supply and fit" then both their labour and materials should be 5% rated. Some trades may not like this as they pay 20% when they buy them. This should be sorted out when they make their VAT return but some trades still worry about it. If any refuse to 5% rate your only option is to buy materials yourself paying 20% and reclaiming 20% later. You can then "free issue" the materials to the trade to fit. The downside is the trade might get a better discount than you. Under no circumstances must anyone live in the building before work starts as that resets the 10 year clock. However i believe you can move in a few days after work starts if necessary. T

I'd never heard of this but Google found.. https://www.cohesivehomes.com/rebar-grounded-or-grounding-rod#:~:text=Rebar on its own doesn,be a touch potential hazard.

Could you cut up a work top to make upstands? A 3m worktop would probably only make 12m or so of upstand because the saw kerf will make some narrower than 20mm/

Getting there slowly. The bond pattern is working out ok. Main issue I'm having is that the stone isn't a constant thickness. The difference between thick ones and thin ones is 3mm. Overall I don't think its great quality stone but it will look ok when done. Lucky I have so many to cut I can cut off defects. Any tips for removing these levelling spacers?

+1 But don't go too stingy on the topsoil. If you turf make sure you have adequate water pressure for multiple sprinklers. Ideally you want someone home in daytime to move them around and keep it damp for two weeks or so. On a windy sunny day turf can shrink in an hour leaving big gaps unless kept damp. If any weeds come through use a weed killer that doesn't affect grass like Weedol or for large areas Depitox probably works out cheaper.

My reading is that they might intend it to still be binding and there might be a fee to get approval. However covenants must be written to benefit some other land that is identifiable or they can be unenforceable. Its not clear to me that "the unsold part of the Estate" is sufficient to clearly identify the land that benefits from the covenant. What if that part has since been sold as well? I'm afraid I think you need advice as to if it's enforceable.

I haven't had a good look at your plans but... Some architects use library symbols for things like showers, WC, basins (and furniture) that are on the small side. It's worth drawing out each room on a larger scale and adding realistically sized items or at least checking the architects models are roughly correct. For example your drawings show wall or pedestal mounted basins. Perhaps you actually want Inset or counter top basins with a vanity unit below? They would be bigger/deeper. Shower trays right size?

Some manufacturers of render do/don't approve their render for use below DPC. I would try and check with them.

Give it a go but I have heard of people having their reclaim refused because at the time the work was done it wasn't legal or didn't qualify. One example concerned a large extension. It was originally granted PP as a granny Annex. Half way through the build they got PP changed so it could be sold off as a seperate dwelling. HMRC only approved items on the reclaim purchased after the PP was changed.

ping @MikeGrahamT21

I don't think this is any different to filling a cavity wall with an injected foam insulation. Similar risks?

So the floor top to bottom will be something like this?.. LVT flooring Something? Wundatherm Premium/UFH EPS 400 18mm OSB ? Joists Insulation between joists? I know Wundatherm Premium is intended for direct tiles on top. Not sure about LVT. I suggest you ask them. If you can't put LVT directly on top then perhaps use something like a cement backer board.

Pure Aerogel is the best insulation but in its pure form it's quite fragile as it's something like 99% air. Typically they mix it with something to make a blanket like insulation but that reduces its insulating properties.

Sorry I missed the bit about the floor sensor. It seems Nest do have a remote sensor unit but it's a self contained wireless sensor intended for other rooms. Most stats i've seen use a 10k NTC Resistor for the actual sensor so might be hackable to take a remote floor sensor instead. I added my own remote sensor to a Heatmiser stat.

Looks like some Nest can do that.. https://www.howtogeek.com/252539/how-to-switch-your-nest-thermostat-from-heating-to-cooling-and-vice-versa/#:~:text=Press on your Nest Thermostat,would in the Nest app.

I'd go beam and block if the cost is ok. If you block the vents that could encourage rot in the existing floor. It's also easier to do ufh and or tiles if you have screed floor. Just check the floor levels work out as b&b, insulation and screed are quite deep.

The front elevation thing is most problematic when you have rows of similar houses all set back the same. If there is more of a mixture of orientation and some trees to screen then it might be easier. Although they still worry about setting a precident.

So from my spreadsheet the standard dimensions for wall mounted WC appear to be.. Bolts to FFL: Typically 320-330mm Bolts to waste: 100mm Bolts to flush: 35mm Seat width: 360mm Wall to front edge: 525mm but varies from 515 to 545mm You can adjust the bolt height to change the seat height but beware as some wall mounted pans extend down quite a ways. If you reduce the bolt height some WC might touch the floor! Example of standard dimensions: Ideal Standard Concept https://www.idealstandard.co.uk/products/catalog/toilets/bowls/e0473 Example of non-standard dimensions: Ideal Standard Concept Air: https://www.idealstandard.co.uk/products/catalog/toilets/bowls/e0796

Without a dropped kerb permit I believe it's a motoring offense to drive over the pavement. Google suggests its section 184 of the Highways Act.

Or batten out the wall and plasterboard it so the cistern of a close coupled isn't so far back. Depends if space is an issue.

You can do quite a lot with these things.. https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-push-fit-0-90-double-socket-adjustable-bend-grey-110mm/50087?tc=IB6&ds_kid=92700055281954505&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=CjwKCAjw0a-SBhBkEiwApljU0t-qsr3tiN-7qcG3DW4B2jFrQX_x3F5pg8VwMy2nQXiWjlhzEgNiYRoCY_oQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Long time ago I made a spreadsheet to work out if there was a standard spacing for the bolts, waste and flush pipe. The result was that most are a common spacing BUT I did find two or three that were different and wouldn't fit. I'm not on my PC at the moment but will try and find it later.

I think you are correct. The half width of original house restriction only applies when it extends beyond a side wall. Which it would do if it joins the previous extension. So leaving a gap should be OK. However I recall reading that planners have argued over the size the gap needs to be. It might be worth applying for a certificate of lawfulness to establish that an extension with gap would be Permitted Development and make a planning application for full width extehsion without a gap at the same time. If they reject it appeal on the grounds that overall the difference is insignificant.