Temp

+1 Everything has to be by the book or they will find some way to wriggle out. I would also avoid writing any negative reviews online until after any court case.

I'd still write giving them final opportunity with deadline.. https://gw.legal/articles/building-claims-how-to-challenge-shoddy-building-work

I think to be safe you have to give them an "opportunity to rectify" the problem. You did that by inviting them to come and look but in court they might make up some story and say they did agree to fix but you got someone else to do it while they were waiting for parts to arrive. If you haven't already done so I would write recorded delivery with a copy of the report/list of work that needs doing and giving them a date in two weeks to agree a plan and timescale to sort it. Keep a copy. You can say in the letter If they haven't responded by that date you will get the work done elsewhere and seek to recover costs.

The sun is higher in summer than winter so roof overhangs above windows or similar can reduce solar gain in summer and keep it in winter. I think cladding with a well ventilated void behind also helps reduce heat gain. Bit like putting a large shade over the walls.

Is it going in conduit or exposed to UV? If exposed it would be nice to see UV resistant in the description somewhere.

Humm. So looks like I've misunderstood what the tilt feature does.

What sort of cylinder? All cylinders use some sort of coil (or heat exchanger) to separate the water in the primary (ashp/boiler) from the secondary side (taps and showers etc). This heat exchanger can either be on the input side or output side of the tank. If its on the input side then the 300L of water in the tank cant be dosed with biocide because its the same water that comes out of the taps. In this case its recommended you heat the cylinder say once a week to 60C to kill off bugs such as legionnaires disease. If its on the output side then the 300L of water in the tank is the same water that circulates around the ashp/boiler circuit and this can normally be dosed up with corrosion inhibitor and biocide. The secondary side (Incoming main -> heat exchanger -> taps) is short/low volume that is regularly flushed with new water from the mains. I suspect this makes it much less likely to grow bugs.

Bit dated but.. https://www.electriciansforums.net/threads/new-dwelling-temporary-supply.8926/ https://www.groupga.co.uk/blog/safety-first-always-with-construction-site-temps/

See also here.. This explains how to save/avoid stamp duty by buying a plot before the builder starts construction. Including the case where she already owns other properties. https://blackstonesolicitorsltd.co.uk/category/commercial-property/stamp-duty-on-land-with-planning-permission/#.YnZfnTbTU1I

Why on earth do they think an empty plot of land is liable for residential stamp duty. Refer them to the link I posted above which clearly says its non-residential. It might only be liable for residential stamp and the higher rate if there was already a house on the plot you were going to knock down.

I have this cheap laser level for tiling... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B092HXDGS3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The main feature missing from the cheap ones like mine is the ability to move the horizontal line up and down. This means if you want to level a curtain rail the laser level has to be mounted at the same height on a tripod or similar. Some come with a bracket for fixing to a wall or similar but it would be a lot easier if the level could be placed on the floor or a table and the beam adjusted to move the horizontal line up and down. Otherwise he green one is plenty bright enough for indoor use. Not tried it outdoors

https://selfbuildportal.org.uk/vat-and-sdlt/#sdlt

I think you would get away with another door in the wall facing the window and an extractor fan.

There is a difference between "meeting Building Regulations" and the need for "Building Control Approval". In general you should always meet the regulations but you don't always need to make Building Control Application. That might be where your builder is coming from. In general erecting a non structural partition wall doesn't require a Building Control Application but there will be Building Regulations which it should comply with.. Not an official source but.. https://www.diy-extra.co.uk/stud-wall-regulations.html Just the relevant bits.. It might be possible to comply with the fire escape regulations by providing two internal doors instead of a window. I think you are allowed to rely on a window in another room provided you don't have to go via a staircase or landing to get there. I know this applies to en-suite bathrooms but not sure about a home cinema.

More from their Web site.. https://www.pavingexpert.com/point_ncc01

Appears the Paving Experts used epoxy grout to repair Hitchin market place..

They may say the new room is classed as a habitable room. If they do then you ma need another exit route and ventilation.

Are there marks on the other side? Was it a simple cranked hinge (19"?) or like a field gate that wrapped around the end (24"?)

Couldn't find a drawing for Gatemate but that seems to be how other makes measure hinges.

If I had to guess I'd say they probably measure from the hinge pin to the end of the band... so 24" ish ? Where did the hinge pin sit? No idea if the holes on different sizes line up. I suspect not.

Never heard of that being done. There are weed killers like Verdone and Depitox that kill weeds not grass. Think most weeds arrive by seeds being spread in wind and bird poop.

If you turf it make sure you have a decent sprinkler and someone on hand to keep it wet. In windy/sunny weather it can dry and shrink in an hour leaving big gaps.

Not sure if this is relevant but others have had similar issue even with no load. Firmware change mentioned. https://www.shelly-support.eu/forum/index.php?thread/4446-shelly-plug-overpower-issue-without-load/

Perhaps try contacting Birkdale.. https://www.birkdalesales.com/gate-furniture?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpcOTBhCZARIsAEAYLuXvEy9tL1LIFAPY77gxzTco2QLWxUARuxChGCcInj-iYaDg4kRnHm0aAt8SEALw_wcB

We have no issues with noise from any of the indoor vents. Outside the main inlet/outlets make some noise due to the airflow through them. This is quieter than a boiler flue but still significant if standing near them. We mounted the fan/heat exchanger unit in a void above a porch over the back door with the in/out vents pointing downwards. The filters on our system are on the fan unit inlet. They are a large pore/coarse foam but get pretty well clogged with bugs and dust in about 4 months. Because access is a bit difficult I recently fitted a 3D printed filter holder to the inlet vent itself. I can remove this easily and wash it out under a tap. The extract vents in bathrooms have a dust filter that also clogs. When they do they fold in a way that means they don't block the sirflow but obviously that allows dust into the ducts. Ive no way to know if it saves any money but the constant fresh air makes the house feel so much nicer. Clothes and towels dry on racks overnight and far less dusting to do.