Temp

Google suggests.. https://www.sinks-taps.com/articles/2018/5/2/an-easier-way-to-install-a-ceramic-undermount-kitchen-sink

I forgot... I think the English regs allow the vent part of a stack to be 75mm ID/82mm OD eg doesn't need to be 110mm. Not sure if that helps much.

Building Control Officers in England tend to want one open vent at the furthest point from the sewer in the road. They tend to accept AAV on any other vents. I'm not sure this is a hard and fast rule. Some time ago I found this reference to only needing one open vent pipe per every 5th house on an estate... https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=7eAhNzZW1goC&pg=PA846&lpg=PA846&dq=one+open+vented+stack+ever+four+dwellings&source=bl&ots=tK13FKNupg&sig=ACfU3U1pU0TMwSQa0xcSaUFx9tnojD06AA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjUto7_0qDlAhXSbsAKHfjgD10Q6AEwDnoECAcQAQ#v=onepage&q=one open vented stack ever four dwellings&f=false However it also says this isn't suitable where there are interceptor traps on the drain to each house (which I thing might be the case in Scotland?)

The foundations for any wall or pillar should be horizontal/level with steps not sloped. http://civilconstructiontips.blogspot.com/2011/06/foundations-on-sloping-sites.html http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cFxWm7-WL4M/Tegma68USKI/AAAAAAAAABM/J8QV0lARUO4/s1600/18.gif If the foundations are stepped then like this..

No. I had some india stone on some steps come loose. Was hard to get it to stick down until someone here recommended an SBR mix on the back. That seemed to do the trick. Grout will break up if the slate can move because its not stuck down. See also.. https://slateandstone.net/sbr-bonding-bridge-and-primers But note the comment about needing to clean up as you go..

Its not quite clear how many neighbours are involved. My reading is that House A relies on the pipe which goes through your garden (House B) then through garden of House C to a soakaway in D or ?? Where is the blockage? On land A? or land C? . Its likely to be the responsibility of house A to sort out as its essentially their pipe. The exception might be if house C also uses it. See if the deeds give house A a right of access to B,C and D for maintenance purposes? It's possible that the slope of the land means that one or more houses have a right to let rainwater run off their property onto yours but that does not extend to sewage. Sewage flooding onto your garden would amount to a statutory nuisance. If they refuse to do anything about it you can try and get the Environmental Health Officer to intervene but EHO can be busy and aren't always very helpful.

+1 Everything has to be by the book or they will find some way to wriggle out. I would also avoid writing any negative reviews online until after any court case.

I'd still write giving them final opportunity with deadline.. https://gw.legal/articles/building-claims-how-to-challenge-shoddy-building-work

I think to be safe you have to give them an "opportunity to rectify" the problem. You did that by inviting them to come and look but in court they might make up some story and say they did agree to fix but you got someone else to do it while they were waiting for parts to arrive. If you haven't already done so I would write recorded delivery with a copy of the report/list of work that needs doing and giving them a date in two weeks to agree a plan and timescale to sort it. Keep a copy. You can say in the letter If they haven't responded by that date you will get the work done elsewhere and seek to recover costs.

The sun is higher in summer than winter so roof overhangs above windows or similar can reduce solar gain in summer and keep it in winter. I think cladding with a well ventilated void behind also helps reduce heat gain. Bit like putting a large shade over the walls.

Is it going in conduit or exposed to UV? If exposed it would be nice to see UV resistant in the description somewhere.

Humm. So looks like I've misunderstood what the tilt feature does.

What sort of cylinder? All cylinders use some sort of coil (or heat exchanger) to separate the water in the primary (ashp/boiler) from the secondary side (taps and showers etc). This heat exchanger can either be on the input side or output side of the tank. If its on the input side then the 300L of water in the tank cant be dosed with biocide because its the same water that comes out of the taps. In this case its recommended you heat the cylinder say once a week to 60C to kill off bugs such as legionnaires disease. If its on the output side then the 300L of water in the tank is the same water that circulates around the ashp/boiler circuit and this can normally be dosed up with corrosion inhibitor and biocide. The secondary side (Incoming main -> heat exchanger -> taps) is short/low volume that is regularly flushed with new water from the mains. I suspect this makes it much less likely to grow bugs.

Bit dated but.. https://www.electriciansforums.net/threads/new-dwelling-temporary-supply.8926/ https://www.groupga.co.uk/blog/safety-first-always-with-construction-site-temps/

See also here.. This explains how to save/avoid stamp duty by buying a plot before the builder starts construction. Including the case where she already owns other properties. https://blackstonesolicitorsltd.co.uk/category/commercial-property/stamp-duty-on-land-with-planning-permission/#.YnZfnTbTU1I

Why on earth do they think an empty plot of land is liable for residential stamp duty. Refer them to the link I posted above which clearly says its non-residential. It might only be liable for residential stamp and the higher rate if there was already a house on the plot you were going to knock down.

I have this cheap laser level for tiling... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B092HXDGS3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The main feature missing from the cheap ones like mine is the ability to move the horizontal line up and down. This means if you want to level a curtain rail the laser level has to be mounted at the same height on a tripod or similar. Some come with a bracket for fixing to a wall or similar but it would be a lot easier if the level could be placed on the floor or a table and the beam adjusted to move the horizontal line up and down. Otherwise he green one is plenty bright enough for indoor use. Not tried it outdoors

https://selfbuildportal.org.uk/vat-and-sdlt/#sdlt

I think you would get away with another door in the wall facing the window and an extractor fan.

There is a difference between "meeting Building Regulations" and the need for "Building Control Approval". In general you should always meet the regulations but you don't always need to make Building Control Application. That might be where your builder is coming from. In general erecting a non structural partition wall doesn't require a Building Control Application but there will be Building Regulations which it should comply with.. Not an official source but.. https://www.diy-extra.co.uk/stud-wall-regulations.html Just the relevant bits.. It might be possible to comply with the fire escape regulations by providing two internal doors instead of a window. I think you are allowed to rely on a window in another room provided you don't have to go via a staircase or landing to get there. I know this applies to en-suite bathrooms but not sure about a home cinema.

More from their Web site.. https://www.pavingexpert.com/point_ncc01

Appears the Paving Experts used epoxy grout to repair Hitchin market place..

They may say the new room is classed as a habitable room. If they do then you ma need another exit route and ventilation.

Are there marks on the other side? Was it a simple cranked hinge (19"?) or like a field gate that wrapped around the end (24"?)

Couldn't find a drawing for Gatemate but that seems to be how other makes measure hinges.