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Not a good idea to put 25mm of wood on top if up can avoid it. What about other rooms? If you raise the floor will it just move the problem somewhere else? Think some self levelling compounds will go upto 25mm.

I think you are OK... Approved Document A.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/structure-approved-document-a I think you want Section 2C from page 13. Paragraph 2C10 on page 14 says minimum thickness for an internal load bearing wall is.. Table 3 line 1 appears to give a figure of 190mm for a wall 3.5m high and upto 12m long. (190/2)-5 = 90mm So 100mm block should be OK. If the wall is less than 9m long it appears it can be up to 9m tall before you need to make it thicker (Table 3 line 2).

Welcome to the forum. To me it sounds more like a blocked drain than a lack of vent but I might be wrong. Can you tell which way the "rush of air" is going? Pipe to room... You might have an AAV instead of an open vent. These only let air into the pipes. If the drain pipe gets blocked air pressure can build up slowing the flow. When you let the air out into the room that would reduce the pressure allowing the flow to improve. Room to pipe.. If air is going from the room into the pipe that would suggest a blocked AAV or lack of ventilation.

or drill and glue in M5 round connector nuts with a length of threaded rod.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111805113838?hash=item1a081aa5ee:g:sHwAAOSwTzVcms95 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322308108964?hash=item4b0b0f72a4:g:5-oAAOSwcd9feIHO

If you plan to do any planting after the house is built (eg hedge or trees) consider including a landscaping plan with the application. Its essentially just a site plan with the hedge/trees added. That allows you to reclaim the VAT off the plants otherwise you can't.

Call them "Solar heating gain control units" and the government will probably give you a grant for them 🙂

You can buy 6m lengths of 28mm copper pipe but how readily available they are I'm not sure. A few Google finds.. https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/the-lawton-tube-en-1057-x-copper-tube-28mm-x-6mtr/ https://www.plumbparts.co.uk/product/copper-pipe-coil-28mm/ https://www.palmer.uk.com/Product/1598/Copper-Tube-6m-Lengths https://www.abcoplumbingfittings.com/copper-tube/

I googled to see if 6.8mm laminated met 0.74 kN/m. Found only this.. https://www.pilkington.com/~/media/Pilkington/Site Content/UK/Reference/BRGlassMechanicalStrengthPDF.ashx

Reinforced grass? https://www.pavingexpert.com/grasspav

Guide here.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/preventing-and-resolving-disputes-in-relation-to-party-walls/the-party-wall-etc-act-1996-explanatory-booklet. Notify them as per paragraph 8. Get their agreement for the work as per paragraph 10. and for it to start immediately instead of waiting 2 months. Paragraph 9. No surveyor needed unless they don't agree or don't reply see Paragraph 12,13,14,15 etc See also Part 5 Example Letters but they don't have to be quite so formal in tone. See Para 8 for what must be included. The rest is up to you. Few hours delay at most if you have drawings already and their agreement to the work.

I'm not convinced the Party Wall Act applies but assuming it does then... Given that, all you need do to comply with the Act is get the neighbour's agreement to the plans. No need to pay for a Party Wall Surveyor to draw up a PWA agreement. I think "The Guide to the Party Wall Act" even has a template letter to send them and get them to sign. You only need a surveyor for the PWA if they don't agree and then it gets expensive.

I agree its not your problem but sometimes shared problems become opportunities.

So it's the outlet from their septic tanks and may go to a soakaway, or leech field. Given what they say they are probably going to blame you. I don't suppose you still have a digger available. Would be tempting to get a working party together to fix it properly for the brownie points.

Ok thats clearer. It's pretty hard to tell what went on to be honest. It's possible the neighbours builder was faced with trying to join onto your roof when it was in poor condition. Ideally he would have come knocked on your door to advise getting your roof done at the same time. Gluing new onto old in poor condition isn't a great idea. Perhaps that area had already been patched up a few times rather than the whole lot being redone. Hopefully the new work you had done will have sorted the issue.

Village near us was on a combination of private and communal tanks until a few years back Then I think the government or water co had some kind of "first connection" service running. This involved building a small treatment (collection?) plant on the outskirts and hooking everyone up to that instead. Not sure how many houses a village must have before it could get on such a scheme.

Most water companies and ofwat have something similar on their websites now. The diagram I posted is several diagrams down this first one.. https://www.ofwat.gov.uk/nonhouseholds/supply-and-standards/responsibility-supply-pipes/ https://www.stwater.co.uk/my-supply/waste-water/looking-after-your-sewers/sewer-pipe-responsibility/

Indeed. I suspect this is one reason the government changed the rules in Engkand to make shared drains the responsibility of the water co. Prior to that I'm sure lot of people had issues.

Water has a habit of finding any weakness. It's essential both the design and the implementation is done right. The idea of the upstand is to raise the edge/join above any possible standing water level. The corner batten is to eliminate the sharp 90 degree bend which can cause cracking. Ideally there wouldn't be another join in the waterproof layer near the upstand. A full width strip of felt would be used so there is a wide overlap joint further away from the upstand. Did the neighbour replace the whole upstand and just fit a strip to try and reseal your side? This is confusing. So the photos show it before you did your side? Can we see pictures of what it looks like now? Is it still leaking?

Not sure about Scotland but in England all shared pipes are now responsibility of the water co if they connect to their system. See below. If it connects to a shared soakaway or cesspit then its going to be the responsibility of the houses that share but you may have to look at the deeds to see exactly who owns which bit. House A is probably responsible for the bit from house A to where house C connects into it.

Google suggests.. https://www.sinks-taps.com/articles/2018/5/2/an-easier-way-to-install-a-ceramic-undermount-kitchen-sink

I forgot... I think the English regs allow the vent part of a stack to be 75mm ID/82mm OD eg doesn't need to be 110mm. Not sure if that helps much.

Building Control Officers in England tend to want one open vent at the furthest point from the sewer in the road. They tend to accept AAV on any other vents. I'm not sure this is a hard and fast rule. Some time ago I found this reference to only needing one open vent pipe per every 5th house on an estate... https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=7eAhNzZW1goC&pg=PA846&lpg=PA846&dq=one+open+vented+stack+ever+four+dwellings&source=bl&ots=tK13FKNupg&sig=ACfU3U1pU0TMwSQa0xcSaUFx9tnojD06AA&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjUto7_0qDlAhXSbsAKHfjgD10Q6AEwDnoECAcQAQ#v=onepage&q=one open vented stack ever four dwellings&f=false However it also says this isn't suitable where there are interceptor traps on the drain to each house (which I thing might be the case in Scotland?)

The foundations for any wall or pillar should be horizontal/level with steps not sloped. http://civilconstructiontips.blogspot.com/2011/06/foundations-on-sloping-sites.html http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cFxWm7-WL4M/Tegma68USKI/AAAAAAAAABM/J8QV0lARUO4/s1600/18.gif If the foundations are stepped then like this..

No. I had some india stone on some steps come loose. Was hard to get it to stick down until someone here recommended an SBR mix on the back. That seemed to do the trick. Grout will break up if the slate can move because its not stuck down. See also.. https://slateandstone.net/sbr-bonding-bridge-and-primers But note the comment about needing to clean up as you go..

Its not quite clear how many neighbours are involved. My reading is that House A relies on the pipe which goes through your garden (House B) then through garden of House C to a soakaway in D or ?? Where is the blockage? On land A? or land C? . Its likely to be the responsibility of house A to sort out as its essentially their pipe. The exception might be if house C also uses it. See if the deeds give house A a right of access to B,C and D for maintenance purposes? It's possible that the slope of the land means that one or more houses have a right to let rainwater run off their property onto yours but that does not extend to sewage. Sewage flooding onto your garden would amount to a statutory nuisance. If they refuse to do anything about it you can try and get the Environmental Health Officer to intervene but EHO can be busy and aren't always very helpful.