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Welcome to the forum. What span will the rafters be? I don't have my span tables with me as on holiday 🙂 but someone can check if 2x4 is enough. Will it be within 2m of your boundary? If so, to come under permitted development there is a max eaves height of 3m. All should be straightforward. Remember to plan rainwater disposal. In many areas you can't put it into the sewer so need soakaway. These have to be 5m from the house I think. Also worth thinking about where rain falling on surrounding land will go. Eg dont want it running down driveway and under the front door of the garage. If that's an issue linear drains can help.

Google found a photo showing how the Bosch fails.. https://www.reddit.com/r/Justrolledintotheshop/comments/oqju1i/another_kind_of_shop_bosch_dishwasher_heater/

Some/many(?) dishwashers have a heating element printed onto the outside of a metal tube. When the inside gets scaled up this increases the thermal resistance between the heating element and the water eg the water doesn't remove heat from the element fast enough. When this happens the element can overheat and burn out. Usually happens at the bottom where the scale is thicker. Happened twice on our Bosch. Very visible once you have it out of the machine. Annoyingly on the Bosch you have to buy a pump assembly as they only sell it as a complete unit, I can't just buy the tube and element. We now put a bottle of white vinegar in it every week to try and stop the scale forming. You have to put it in after the machine does its initial pump out or the vinegar will also get pumped straight out. Can be a normal wash

Google found a discussion.. https://ext.pavingexpert.com/brewcabin/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=13430

I think the government is worried that if they zero rate it in BnQ we will all start buying insulation to make our houses warmer. We're much less likely to do that if we have to pay an installer to buy and fit it for us.

Does the water trap need to be under the bath? Would a U bend a few meters away be allowed?

OK so this works both ways.. He can't ask you to pay for work done prior to ending the contract with the builder. He has to take that up with the builder. You can't ask him for credit for the money you over paid the builder. You have to take that up with the builder.

+1 we have two or three of their ufh mixers in our system. Been very reliable for 15 years.

Have you recieved confirmation that's its been received and validated? As I recall if someone wrote to support or object to the original planning application they will automatically be notified within two weeks of an appeal being validated. I'm not sure how long it's taking to validate appeal applications. I'm not sure I believe these figures from 2019.. https://www.theplanner.co.uk/news/appeal-stats-released

Get a metal post box securely fitted to the site fencing even if you do change address. We had all sorts of post turn up to our site and it was a new build. Frequently materials suppliers sent invoices to the delivery address by mistake.

Regular brickwork is porous so water can get to the inside of the outer leaf. If it runs down to a window or similar it can cross to the inner leaf unless a cavity tray and weep holes are fitted. Frequently the lintel and cavity tray are combined into one unit. The top of the lintel slopes down to the outside. However if the brickwork is rendered it shouldn't be possible for water to get through the outer leaf so this issue shouldn't arrise. What stage are you at? Has the rendering has already been done? If so I would get the sills done and see what happens. If the render hasn't been done then it's a more difficult decision as fitting cavity trays after rendering will mess up the render.

That all sounds right. Actually moving an electric pole could be zero rated even if it wasn't part of the new supply. For example if it was moved because it was in the way and moving it enabled the house to be built. Does the new planning application just cover the garage or does it ammend the existing approval? Once a house is completed you can't reclaim VAT on an extension or outbuilding/garage so if the new PP is just for the garage then I suspect not reclaimable. However if you were to get your PP for the house amended to include a garage then it should be possible to reclaim VAT on the garage as well. To be honest I'm not sure what happens if the garage is on a seperate permission and you build the garage before finishing the house. If you are using a builder who is zero rating the house to you then its possible he could be (incorrectly) persuaded to zero rate the garage as well. Its unlikely there would be any come back but it is possible. For example if HMRC investigated the projects the builder had worked on and correct his VAT return (or words to that effect) then he might come to you for the VAT.

It doesnt really help to know how ADSL works but... ADSL assumes a phone line has a bandwidth of about 1Mz. It divides that up into a bunch of 4khz wide channels. I think 196 channels are used for download and 64 for upload. I think a few are unused/guards between voice and data. It's a bit like having a whole bunch of individual modems in parallel. The data rate for each channel depends on the signal to noise ratio for that channel. Or in short.. a noisy line is slower. Most ADSL modems have the ability to tell you what the noise margin on the line is like. Typically you have to log in to the Admin page in the modem and drill down to a status page. I've long since forgotten what acceptable noise values are so I had to Google this.. https://help.keenetic.com/hc/en-us/articles/360002830880-ADSL-line-parameters Sometimes the noise margin varies with time of day. One tip I was told... Apparently OR are better at dealing with complaints about noise/crackling on calls than they are about complaints of slow ADSL. However fixing noise/crackling on the phone line can sometimes fix ADSL issues as well. So one thing you can try is doing the Quiet Line test which suppresses the dial tone so you can listen to what should be a quiet line. If its crackling away then complain about that first. Once that's sorted then see if ADSL improves.

If you need to cut them to length try leaving the cut ends in a bucket of preserver/creosote overnight.

Welcome to the forum. There are composite joists as well but quite expensive.. https://ecodek.co.uk/product/ecodek-super-stiff-composite-joists https://build4less.co.uk/products/composite-decking-joists-plastic?variant=31679927976032 If it doesn't need to be 150mm tall there are cheaper lower profile composite battens for use where decking is going something like an existing concrete slab. Lower height also avoids needing planning permission.

I think if you pay them in full they will disappear again and have no incentive to return. If they have done 1/2 or 2/3rd of the work pay them that much. Offer to pay the remaining fraction daily, perhaps in cash at the end of the day. You could off the bonus for a new date.

Not a good idea to put 25mm of wood on top if up can avoid it. What about other rooms? If you raise the floor will it just move the problem somewhere else? Think some self levelling compounds will go upto 25mm.

I think you are OK... Approved Document A.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/structure-approved-document-a I think you want Section 2C from page 13. Paragraph 2C10 on page 14 says minimum thickness for an internal load bearing wall is.. Table 3 line 1 appears to give a figure of 190mm for a wall 3.5m high and upto 12m long. (190/2)-5 = 90mm So 100mm block should be OK. If the wall is less than 9m long it appears it can be up to 9m tall before you need to make it thicker (Table 3 line 2).

Welcome to the forum. To me it sounds more like a blocked drain than a lack of vent but I might be wrong. Can you tell which way the "rush of air" is going? Pipe to room... You might have an AAV instead of an open vent. These only let air into the pipes. If the drain pipe gets blocked air pressure can build up slowing the flow. When you let the air out into the room that would reduce the pressure allowing the flow to improve. Room to pipe.. If air is going from the room into the pipe that would suggest a blocked AAV or lack of ventilation.

or drill and glue in M5 round connector nuts with a length of threaded rod.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111805113838?hash=item1a081aa5ee:g:sHwAAOSwTzVcms95 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/322308108964?hash=item4b0b0f72a4:g:5-oAAOSwcd9feIHO

If you plan to do any planting after the house is built (eg hedge or trees) consider including a landscaping plan with the application. Its essentially just a site plan with the hedge/trees added. That allows you to reclaim the VAT off the plants otherwise you can't.

Call them "Solar heating gain control units" and the government will probably give you a grant for them 🙂

You can buy 6m lengths of 28mm copper pipe but how readily available they are I'm not sure. A few Google finds.. https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/the-lawton-tube-en-1057-x-copper-tube-28mm-x-6mtr/ https://www.plumbparts.co.uk/product/copper-pipe-coil-28mm/ https://www.palmer.uk.com/Product/1598/Copper-Tube-6m-Lengths https://www.abcoplumbingfittings.com/copper-tube/

I googled to see if 6.8mm laminated met 0.74 kN/m. Found only this.. https://www.pilkington.com/~/media/Pilkington/Site Content/UK/Reference/BRGlassMechanicalStrengthPDF.ashx

Reinforced grass? https://www.pavingexpert.com/grasspav