Temp

PS McAlpine make several traps of this type. They have various heights but the shallower ones have lower flow rates. I think one also has a shallower water seal so more prone to siphoning and evaporation. I think the one I linked to is the best one.

This is what we did on a beam and block floor. Same would work on yours I think. Basically you run the waste pipe in the insulation. UFH in the screed. Tray can be recessed or above the screed. Use a "top access, top fitting" waste trap. These have a part that goes through the tray and screws into the part below the tray. Trap can be removed for cleaning from above through the drain hole. No need for access below. Example.. https://mcalpineplumbing.com/traps/shower-traps-accessories/st90cp10-hpc-2-90mm-hi-flow-shower-trap I would use a 50mm/2" waste pipe not 40mm. Procedure.. Lay concrete slab. Construct timber support platform where tray will go at the right height. We used pressure treated frame with WBP on top. WBP has hole for trap in it. If the tray is being recessed into the screed you need shuttering as well. This can be temporarily screwd to the support frame. Trap and pipe should be installed before adding the WPB top to the frame. Support the waste and pipe but don't fix it down. It's best if it can move a bit (including vertically so it can be pulled up to the hottom of the tray later). The frame can be partly filled with insulation if you like. Temporarily position tray to check location of trap. Test waste for leaks. Lay insulation, ,membrane, UFH and screed. Remove any shuttering when set. To fit tray.. Mortar on WPB Lower tray into place, check level Fit sealer around waste, screw top of waste through tray into trap. Tile down to top of tray. Etc If you recess the tray best leave the top about 5mm above the floor tiles. That way the door seal doesn't rub on the tiles. If you need a drawing let me know.

We just used regular sand cement screed. UFH and stone. Only issue we had was.. Didn't know we needed expansion joints at doorways and had a crack. Basically the screed in each room shrank towards its own centre. The crack propagated through the stone above because we tiled through the doorway. An expansion gap (aka deliberately straight crack) and careful placement of grout lines lover it would have avoided the problem. No cracks anywhere else.

Pipe through the floor to the other side of the house.

These were the only two in stock at Farnel... Rocker.. 4A https://uk.farnell.com/marquardt/01834-3402-00/rocker-switch-dpdt-4a-250vac-black/dp/2835993 Toggle.. 5A but too expensive? https://uk.farnell.com/idec/lb1t-33t6/toggle-switch-dpdt-5a-250vac-panel/dp/2833320 RS Components has these. I think (ON) in brackets means momentary. So ON-(ON) is a double throw spring loaded one way. Think that does what you want but best double check. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/8200508 https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/toggle-switches/8200532 Check Dimensions? Not much on Amazon.. Toggle but too modern? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jgzwlkj-Switches-R13-402I-Momentary-3Position/dp/B08NX6PF6G/ref=sr_1_196?crid=CHIN3N3KIS97&keywords=Toggle+switch+momentary+black&qid=1648077715&sprefix=toggle+switch+momentary+black%2Caps%2C70&sr=8-196 Push button https://www.amazon.co.uk/Momentary-Switch-Black-Button-Toggle/dp/B08J47938J 12V only?

What's the difference between a retractive and a momentary switch? Is it like a three position switch sprung loaded to the centre? In the past I've purchased blank plates and made combinations that don't eexist. Things like speaker terminals or combination of TV, Network and Speaker. Perhaps try Farnel for a panel mounted switch?

Just a heads up on the A to G energy rating... The EU changed how the scale works so that many LED now E, F and G rated. Don't let a G rating put you off. The Osram I mentioned above are G rated but dissipate 7.9W compared to the 50W Halogen they replaced and are brighter.

I've recently been buying Osram Parathom GU10 LED. Specifically.. Bar code 4 058075 609013 7.9W 650 Lumen 2700K 120 degree beam angle Dimmable version. Over the years I've tried a bunch of cheap dimmable LED and found they flicker horribly when dimmed. Originally thought it was the dimmer and switched to a trailing edge type but this didn't fix the problem I was having. However these Osram bulbs must have a better circuit inside as they don't seem to flicker at all. The dimming isn't quite as linear as a halogen but they can be turned right down unlike some LED that have a high minimum below which they turn off. On full it's bright, almost too bright. Anything over 450 Lumens works for me. Has a 5 year warranty according to the box.

Which country are you in? This forum is mostly for UK members and in the UK its nearly impossible for anyone to get planning permission overturned once it's been approved.

PS: To comply with Approved Docs Part M I think there shouldn't be a step greater than 12mm high anywhere.

Best ask them for a sketch. Its not clear from your question which bit the door co is providing with the door? Here is one example section that uses a precast concrete sill to which a Part M door seal would be added on top. If they are providing a uPVC door sill or ?? the details might be different. Here is one I have modified it to try and match what you say they asked for. But this is just my interpretation ! However lot more info is needed to work out other dimensions such as the levels/height. This will depend on the dimensions of the sill and the internal floor make up. Very easy to get this wrong hence recommend you ask them for a drawing of what they expect. Not sure how they could measure up for the height of the door without some of this already being determined? DPC/DPM not shown.

Unfortunately this needs a subscription that I don't have but its only from last month.. https://www.telegraph.co.uk/environment/2022/02/18/not-front-yard-ban-looms-paved-drives/ "Ban looms for paved drives"

The key to any paving is not the paving itself but the preparation and foundations under it. The paving expert website is great. For many things they have example specifications you can use for the design or to get quotes. A scroll down the site index will give you loads of ideas. Don't skimp on the foundations or you will regret it. Hire the proper equipment for compacting hardcore. I would start with an application for a dropped kerb at the council. This is needed to legally drive across the pavement. You can avoid having to make a planning application if you deal with any rainwater run off on site. This can range from simply sloping the drive towards a flower bed or installing drains and a soakaway. The things to avoid are having rainwater run into the road or pool up against the wall of the house.

If you plan to have power in an outbuilding/detached garage or electric car charger I'd run some duct pipe through the founds near the CU/meter. Other possibility would be a duct and draw rope while you still have a digger for the trench? Oherwise what @PeterWsaid.

One option might be to fit 50mm battens to the sides of the rafters. These would serve to preserve the ventilated gap and provide a face that PIR insulation could be sealed against. The idea is to make the cutting of PIR less critical. It would work with either all PIR or a combination of PIR and another type of insulation such as wood or wool fibre insulation. I think this would work well where you just have straight rafters but roofs also have lots of triangular areas and odd shape bits where its harder to fit insulation without either leaving gaps or blocking the ventilation.

The insulation is specified as 120+25=145mm of PIR. We have 150mm and wish we had more. I don't understand why they specified 222mm deep rafters and only 120mm insulation between. You normally only need a 50mm ventilated void so could fit 222-50 = 170-175mm of insulation. PIR is good thermal insulation however it's very difficult to fit PIR tightly between rafters so the ventilation in the void doesn't get into gaps. Its a mind numbing job cutting bits of insulation that builders do badly. Perhaps insist they foam gaps? It's why if I ever build again I'm probably going for a SIP or warm roof with the insulation above the rafters (eg design out the problem so builders can't get it wrong).

OK so that requires a ventilated void between the ply and insulation. The note top left refers to continuous ventilation at eaves and abutment (top) but the drawing doesn't provide any detail of that. I would expect there to be something like the following at the abutment but this particular solution may not be suitable if you have standing seams. The roof supplier really should recommend or make something suitable.

When our planning department receives a new application they always write back with a letter that says something like.. "Unless you tell us otherwise we will assume you are waiving your right to have the application determined within the statutory period". I suspect if you write back to assert your rights they will refuse it on vague grounds so you have to appeal which takes even longer, or they will just keep asking for more drawings to put the ball back in your court. Edit: Now I think about it we gif asked for another drawing 1 day before the 8 week deadline. If they don't decide within 8 weeks you can file an appeal for non-determination. The issue is the deadline for appeals is 6 months from when the decision should have been made. So don't let them delay too long or you can loose the right to appeal. I would file an appeal no later than 4 months after the due date. So I would write back to say you underand they they are busy and that it won't be considered with 8 weeks statutory period but you reserve the right to appeal for non determination if you feel no progress is being made.

What about organising your own delivery using a carrier that can provide either crane offload or fork lift? http://dorlingtransport.co.uk/truck-mounted-forklift-hire/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw29CRBhCUARIsAOboZbJMDKqPg7O7xXyXkNuY4qyYPs4R0AuROZaJab3n9Dssi3UNJz1I2vkaAuj8EALw_wcB We only have a gravel driveway so it's an issue for off loading heavy pallets from trucks that only have a tail lift. What I did recently was buy an 8x4 sheet of 18mm WBP and used that to make it smooth enough to off load a 1000kg pallet of limestone tiles using a manual pallet trolley. Guess a lot depends on whether you can get the lorry on site at all.

I think you maybe ok. This isn't about self build but worth a read.. https://www.all-paul.co.uk/post/2013/10/09/do-you-need-original-paper-vat-receipts-to-claim-back-vat It suggest HMRC may ask for copy invoices in some case.

I would try for a letter as @ToughButterCup suggests.

I think the approach I'm taking above gets me the same detail at floor wall junction without the risk.

That means your house is probably detached. You don't need prior approval unless your house is detached and the extension is over 4m or semi detached and over 3m. Probably not. It sounds like this would be Permitted Development (eg no planning permission or prior approval required). Did they say your original application would be Permitted Development when they approved it? To be sure its Permitted Development we would need more details or you would need to go through the rules here.. https://www.planningportal.co.uk/permission/common-projects/extensions/planning-permission And the relevant sections in the technical guide.. https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/permitted-development-rights-for-householders-technical-guidance If you want absolute certainty you can apply for a certificate of lawful development. It's similar to a planning application but the planners would just check it meets Permitted Development rules. They can't reject it on subjective grounds.

Are both hot and cold mains pressure or from a tank? Is it possible the hot water is flowing "across" the mixer back up the cold and filling a tank in the loft? Unlikely unless hot is mains pressure from a combi and cold is from a tank. Bit surprised you had to break tiles to get it out. With a lot of mixers the cartridge is replacable by just removing the face plate.

Looks like good work to me. I'm currently doing my bathroom and won't be doing the floor first although it will look like I did when its finished. I'm doing the walls above a support batten first, then the floor. Then removing the batten to do the remaining bottom row on the walls. I figure I'm less likely to drop stuff on the floor tiles this way. Is it worth suggesting she gets an inspection done by the tile association or is that opening a can of worms? https://www.tiles.org.uk/services/technical-inspections/