CC45

We used local guy's - they are helpful and have other contacts - you just need to find a good one to start with.

@ProDave is virtually the same as us - 5yrs in, groundworks & frame & exterior brick work by others then everything else = us. Its slow, hard, grinding stuff but you do save a lot of £. I've got a full time job as well.

If you want a good quality finish (not brilliant but good) and are happy to let others do it then I'd suggest £1k/m2 internal is too low. We will come in less than that but like a few others here we have done a hell of a lot of the work - prob in excess of 60 or 70%. I think you will be a lot closer to £1.5k than £1k. I'd certainly make sure you can afford the higher one rather than the lower.

Mine cost £290 for 145m2. Same company that laid the floor screed 2+ year earlier. 2 blokes for a good half day.

cost of screed £2.5K, cost of tiles £2.5k, cost of tiler £2.5k. Cost for removing lattice £120.

thats a lot of cost and work there. The quality of a lot of new builds is bad - normally down to poor trades + poor management. I'd want all those strong backs securely attached to those pozi joists to start with - that will help. No pipe insulation & no sound proofing either. Are you sure the joists are properly secured at the ends of the joists? I had to go back and sort ours out - after some on here suggested it, and it did help. Sad that neither the builder or NHBC want to sort it out. Good luck.

I was told to use a hose with some good water pressure to knock any snots off. Didn't need to in the end but did wonder if it was OK to do, I guess its OK in moderation.

I nearly lost a bunk down the pipe - only just held onto the bugger. 3ft of water has more pressure than expected. Enjoying your build so keep the 'sharing and caring' going.

yes it will, our screed is 75mm and I'm amazed how quickly it responds. rest easy

is there a justgiving page available? ?

go for it. Before skimming I also record where the joist run - just in case....

I don't think that will cause them problems. As @ProDave said - cut the holes out before skimming and make sure the wires are there so if you make a mistake you can just change the board OR make sure you measure and record exactly where the wires are and leave them plenty long enough. You could drop a plumbline and mark the floor (permanently) where you need to drill.

We've got 10 enlight E5 in the bathroom of 10m2 - on 3 switches. Its a rectangular room with sink + toilet one side & bath + shower the other. Lights are ~ 6 over the sink and centre of the room / 3 over the bath & shower / single in a dormer. You can create several different moods by chosing which ones to have on. Its a hard decision to make with v little guidance. I think 7 would have been plenty in the room, we may add dimmers. With 6 on it gives us ~300 lux on the floor and 500 lux at ~ 900mm. That would be enough light. I think ours are ~ 400 or 450 from walls.

nice blind - did you choose that?

are you going to skim the ceiling? @nod will prob confirm - but I think most BCO's are OK with 12.5mm skimmed. I did put 15mm + skim downstairs with us but thats because I wanted more soundproofing than the 12.5 offers.

where are you in the country?

I've done both but for our build we had a screed pumped in - at ~ 75mm thick they can use a lot less additives so we got V little lattice formation but just to be safe it was all sanded down. Our floors took 10t and cost about 2.5k. 1 morning and its done. I could never have done it for enough less to make me want to find enough mates & time to do it. I walked on it the next day & did other jobs and felt great about the choice. I was very careful with the choice of tile primer and tile adhesive - stuck to what was recommended by the company. They have some info on their website https://www.ryflow.co.uk/. I also put a plastic sheet on top of the floor insulation to stop the leaks and made sure the ufh pipe was well pinned down. The screed won't take weather (it sort of breaks down) so the house does need to have a roof on it.

one of those lifters for £100 is worth every penny - are you doing a whole house? If so - def.

Q a long drop down and up for the UFH pipe (20m all up?) = reduced lengths of loops in the floor slab (max 80m) = more valves needed = more cost.

did mine with this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XXL-Drywall-Lift-Sheetrock-Lift-Panel-Hoist-Plasterboard-Hoist-Mobile-Lift/332330056508?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D82dda4f3280c425c9cc424f0169a4446%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D30%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D372485192444%26itm%3D332330056508%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2386202%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWeb&_trksid=p2386202.c100677.m4598 Not a quality build, but did the whole house and still plenty of use left in it. Better than a knackered back. Buy one of these https://www.screwfix.com/p/roughneck-plasterboard-carrier/51509 Get a step near the lifter, walk up the step carrying the board and flop the board on the lifter. I managed 15mm 8x4 sheets on my own this way and no knackered back.

I like wet plaster but round by us its a heck of a job finding anyone to do it.

I sanded the board to rough it up a bit, then primed it. Stuck tray down with tile adhesive. 4 trays done and no issues so far.

Gallup = roundup. Top stuff for killing weeds. 5l will do a lot - I seem to recall about a Ha i.e. 10,000m2. I think I use 30ml in 5litres last time I used it. Don't leave it in the sprayer, use it all fresh since Roundups effectiveness diminished fairly quickly once mixed up.

I've been told car body filler works really well on wood. Not tried it myself - try a google search.

just checked - our soakaway was 12.6m3. 150m2 house footprint + garage @ 70m2 footprint. Roof area bit more than these so prob ~ 230m2. The soil infiltration rate was OK to good from memory.