CC45

I've positioned ours ~ 500mm from walls (no wall cupboards) - that puts the lights 'in front' of any user. The enlite E5 are fire rated so no messing about with any fire hoods plus they have a 60deg beam so it spreads light. I seem to remember that they are ~ 400 lumens. @Weebles - is the area between the table & family area a bit dark?

will draft up a sketch and get it uploaded. Its one of the decisions I'm not enjoying making....

Just fighting with this now - I've followed the principles as below Task lighting (above kitchen floor units - we don't have any wall hung cupboards) = height of room - worktop height / 2. For us that means ~ 800mm between recessed LED fittings (Enlite E5 - 60deg spread). For general lighting its = height of room /2 so ~ 1.2 or 1.3m apart. In our kitchen (~ 5m x 4m) we have ended up with 8 LED's for general lights (these surround an island), 3 pendant lights above the island & 11 task LED's over the worktops - all on 3 separate circuits. its unlikely they will all on at the same time. Just concerned that we may be a little OTT on lighting. Are there any guidelines out there that any of you have used? Cheers

I use this a lot. Been using it today for setting out some lights in a kitchen. Would not be without it. Lasers for distance can be handy in big rooms but would not spend loads on one - I bought one on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Handheld-Digital-Laser-Distance-Meter-40m-Measure-Tool-Range-Finder-Diastimeter/253734057471?hash=item3b13ba75ff:g:esUAAOSww7RbPyDe and tested it against a Leica one that I can borrow from work - identical measurements up to 4dp.

The more 'patchy' the lawn looks pre seeding then the better the seed will take. Get some of that free advice - it may be better / easier to start again? Guess it depends on the lawns size. Hope the op works.

that web site looks just the ticket.

NP&K as above. Don't pre germinate it. Just buy the seed (golf courses use fescue - so maybe look for grass seed aimed at them) and sprinkle on. Mixes include ryegrass because its dirt cheap, grows quickly and looks nice and green but its what they use on football pitches! Fescue will give you a fine, delicate looking lawn. Personally I don't stop mowing the lawn - you need to reduce competition from the established grass - and let light and moisture down to the soil level so the new seed has a chance.

now would be good - you've opened up the sward with raking then mowing - as long as you get rain / can water it then go for it. Fescue is normally used for lawns - find a local agric merchant - farmers don't pay VAT on grass seed (agric grass is part of the food chain whereas amenity isn't so VAT is charged on it) - try your luck. You could put a bit of P&K on it - they help with cell division & root growth but don't put any N on. Keep mowing it to keep down competition from the existing lawn.

just get some sheep on there - temp elec fencing and water is pretty straightforward. Get hold of a local sheep farmer he / she will either have a few barren ewes or tups hanging about. No need for any fertiliser at this time of year - Nitrogen will just bring more grass, P&K is OK but you aren't after yield. Sheep grazing will get the grass to tiller out & the little black pellets soon disappear. Sorted at no cost.

as above. Job sorted.

We like coving - just finished off the join well - like skirting board really. Its a diy job - just needs careful cutting.

leave the grass for now - its too late to put seed down now & turf will need a lot of water with the summer coming. Wait until mid August and then spray the lot off with glyphosate (buy on line and not in a garden centre). Mow to get rid of as much of the grass as poss after 2 weeks or so. lightly cultivate to create a tilth. Get hold of some dressed seed (to kill the leatherjackets) from an agric merchant and spread this by hand at ~ 500g/100m2. You may want to mix it with some sand to bulk it up a little - there's no harm in using more seed. wait for rain. Patience. It may be worth checking out soil pH - it should be about 6.5 for grass. You can apply a bit of Phosphate and potash fert if you like - the agric merchant will have some of that (its used in the autumn by arable farmers). Stick to fescue grass mixtures. We will follow the above this autumn - we want to see some wildlife in our garden & artificial grass won't tick that box.

we are on quarterly renewals now - the cost is the same as annual but they are unwilling to let me pay for the annual policy. A pain. Like you @ProDave I didn't want to change companies just in case we couldn't get it renewed. £696/year.

never heard of it before that's all.

why the linseed oil?

fantastic results from air test - MVHR fitted I assume?

get them to adjust all door frames after putting the 22mm down. Move on to the next challenge. Watch closely - if they've cocked up on something like this then there could be other issues.

Our chap also talked about increasing the size of all the pipework that fed to it - in effect creating some storage in the pipework. Not too sure how much that would add. I'd try and get a soakaway to work if possible but it will have to be certain distances from boundaries (2.5m?) or buildings (5m?). What's the water table like?

ours was designed to discharge at 1l/sec so 0.1 does look low - it will need a lot of storage 'upstream'.

We had a verbal quote for a hydrobrake - far more expensive than I thought, it was several thousands. We dug down deeper and got drainage for a soakaway. Tricky for you - very little (if any) room for a soakaway.

I'd do all the post TBH. You can still get the proper creosote treated posts - check out the more traditional timber yards.

is she good at sorting out plumbing?

the post savers don't go onto newly cresoted posts very well. They need to dry out really well. I would not put a modern post in the ground without a post saver. Some timber yards will still creosote treated timber.

I said no.

perhaps get DIY SOS involved?