CC45
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Everything posted by CC45
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Both sides. Only a trace under neath.
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You need to run some timber battens down either side of the valley to take the weight of the valley tiles. We used them - they do look good.
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Used blue grit in the past - to skim onto a painted wall. Rough as hell when dry. Plasterers loved it.
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The human brain has a great nack of fogetting pain. Keep plugging away. I've been juggling a full time job & on the tools on our selfbuild for 2 years now, manage your expectations & get some good people around you. Good luck
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Im going to use some foam tubes (arrived today - cant remember the proper name) behind the battens - so smaller compartments. Then some pir between the battens - pushed tight against the frame. Hopefully it will work!
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From os. I didnt ring them, he seemed to suggest the planning process notified them but they waited and did a few in the same locality at the same time. Friendly enough guy and did seek clarification where the boundary was less obvious to him.
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I put all our pir in, every piece was measured and carefully cut to fit tight. Then spent hours with expanding foam. Now the vcl in on Im very surprised how much it billows out when we have a breeze. Clearly air gets in somehow. Got a plan for that. It does take time but hopefully we will have a warm house.
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- timber frame
- insulation
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A chap came to ours and recorded all the boundaries with gps. He said it was normal now but suspected drones would be doing it eventually.
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Id just use 120mm. Not much difference in u value but a lot less issues.
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Weve got 140mm frame and since the pir (supposed to be 140mm) is rather variable in actual depth we have some places, well quite few actually, where it sticks out beyond the frame. Never again will I use 140mm pir in a 140mm frame. Lot of pain to come. That install looks like a bodge.
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- timber frame
- insulation
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Ive used 140mm celotex to insulate our 140mm frame - 60% of it is 140mm or slightly less, the rest is more - up to 5 or 8mm more & is now causing problems. Next time I will use 120mm. Beware if your tollerence is slim.
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Where is the 2m height measured from? What if the ground slopes? I've been told (no idea if this is correct) that the 2m is from 'my' side of the boundary - so if the ground is built up on 'my' side then it could be more than 2m from the neighbours side. Boundaries always seem to cause problems.
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How much are they? I'm going to use timber on the basis of cost + I have a lot of suitable offcuts that I could use.
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Going to do the same - just feels solid.
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As a fluent Welsh speaker I've never actually changed from speaking English with my mates (why would I be speaking English to them if we can all speak Welsh?) to Welsh. How do you know they were speaking English before you walked in? I've sat in pubs on my own and never actually experienced this. If any of my fellow Welsh people have been this rude - I apologise on their behalf. I'd love to know how this 'rumour' started! Before I get accused of anything, I'm not being confrontational. My other half isnt Welsh & I'd be really annoyed if she was treated like this. Back to working out how we lost to Scotland earlier today......
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I'm happy to translate if anyone doesnt undersrand......
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Just one layer of battens, where sockets etc go I will prob put some vertical battens to allow cables to run vertically. Wires will run vertically or horizontally from all points. I'm not going to use the plasterboard ones - hate the feel / noise they make - feels cheap, I will stick to the metal ones. Is there any guidance about distance from corners? Thanks for the various observations
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Hi, Just battening the service void in our timber frame - going horizontally to minimise cold bridging, want to fix a batten at the correct height so that I can screw the elec boxes into the batten - to the underside of the batten (upstairs) and top of the batten (downstairs) - so the cable run doesnt involve too much drilling of holes. I know they are meant to be 450mm from finished floor height and I assumed this was to the underside of the socket but just to check I measured sockets in a new build earlier - they were 450 to the top of the sockets - so which is it? I'm leaning towards making it 450mm to the bottom of the sockets. The safe option. Also read that tbey should be min 350mm from corners - true? Cheers.
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This is a great thread. Plumbed 4 central heating systems previously (3 combies & 1 ventedcsystem) but def going to use manifolds on the house - when we get to that stage, perhaps after April sometime. Big thanks to those who share with the rest of us.
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Fantastic, I put in 1ACH & 80% efficiency into my calcs and it made a massive difference. Figures look a heck of a lot better. Many thanks JSH.
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On our timber framed 240m2 build I've used 20 rolls so far, with prob another 5 to go plus window tape - 8 rolls (only 25m per roll) to be stuck down yet. You use a lot more than you think. Wish we'd built a square box now!
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Thanks JSH for replying - it is the ventilation losses that are throwing me - Ive never done these calcs for a highly insulated, pretty airtight house before so I'm prob going ott. How do the ACH you quote above relate the the blower test figures? I will go back tomorrow night and rerun the calcs for that room with a ventilation temp difference of 5degrees and one ACH, while leaving the fabric heat losses the same . My spreadsheet works room by room rather than whole house calcs as yours does. More to chew on. Thanks. CC
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Evening all, Spent the evening taping the vcl & just finished off the evening doing some heat loss calcs and the calc surprised me. Background: Ceiling u value 0.09 Walls 0.15 Glazing 1.4 Timber frame, well sealed I'd say. Floor area 16m2 with volume of 41m3 (it is a high ceiling) MVHR. My calc suggests fabric heat loss of 180watts with the ventilation losses of 620watts. I assumed 2 airchanges an hour with -1 outside and 21 target, these two factors are responsible for the ventilation heat losses so are they reasonable assumptions? The calcs work out at a heat loss of 51w/m2 of floor area. I'm being rather ocd with taping etc so I'm hoping for a good airtest so if I achieve between 1 and 2 air changes an hour. I havent allowed for the mvhr or any heat rising from below (floors will have sound insulation which will reduce the heat rising from below). So do I need to suck it up or are some of my assumptions out? Thanks, CC
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I was a gas man but since we put induction (head of domestic services doesnt like the thought of gas in the kitchen - Lifes too short to debate it so I gave in) in I'd never go back. Easy to control, sensitive adjustments and a doddle to clean & just a fat cable to put in. Mad not to.
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Done all the munros - Scotland is a stunning country, nearly as good as Wales..... Will live in Scotland for a year when I retire.
