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The timber has shrunk (not expanded) as it has dried out in the sun, a not uncommon problem nowadays, even with merchant bought gates. Pity he didn't form a full length tongue instead of biscuits. Won't do any harm to cover over the gaps with something like tile lath and just stain in to match. Best to only put fixings into one side of the lath and then it will still allow movement as necessary.

And wood fired conversion too. Nice ?

In a hole in the ground there lived a hobbit....

Yes. And if my Worcester combi boiler is anything to go by, nigh on impossible to access and open. In our system with rads, I just opened bleed valve in the main bathroom towel rail which is the highest point in the system.

looks even better with more on?

I don't need to bother with an MOT on the mainland any more (> 40 years old) , and £0 historic road tax. That load of firewood had the rear axle down on the stops. Good job I only travelled about 500 metres loaded like that.

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Even undisturbed chalk will put a sludgy sticky mess under foot when wet, and will be an ice rink in deep winter. I've had a chalk drive for 2 winters and am thrilled to have just gravelled it.

I've just checked the spec for the one window we have with an obscured glass centre pane. It's exactly the same as all the others, no difference in Ug, and has two low e coated panes. Looking at the orientation of the glass, it looks to me as if it's the flat face of the obscured glass that has the coating, which makes sense. I did this check using a laser pointer held at an angle and looking at the relative brightness of the row of internal reflections. Our windows are mainly 4 - 20 - 4 - 20 - 4, and Ug is stated as being 0.55 W/m².K I can't see any reason why obscured glass cannot be low e coated on its flat face, as it's no different to any other pane in that respect.

Google found.. http://ravensbyglass.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/satin-tech-sheet.pdf 4-14-4-14-4 argon filled satin glass in middle u-value 0.7

@Barney12 Hell man that’s is some serious landrover porn !!!!!! I rebuilt my first landrover / every nut and bolt when I was 20..... series 2a and now have the knowledge to pretty much do all the repairs I need from my own humble workshop. Total love affair! Living on an island that does not require an MOT means I can run some pretty old crap and not worry about the madness of an MOT..... though my mainland landy (the grey one) obviously needs to be kept up to spec. The ex Military Police one needs a new canopy now but this is what it looked like a couple of years ago, got a spare axle on the bench at the moment undergoing a FULL rebuild...... again sorry for the thread wobble I will stop NOW ........

I don't understand, have I missed something? I thought the only difference was that the centre pane was either clear or satin. Why has one got softcoat and are the spacers the same?

I needed 4 new boots for the Disco recently and the cheapest place was ASDA tyres. https://www.asdatyres.co.uk Buy (or pay the fitting center direct) and use a local fitter from their list (and there was plenty to choose from). Painless and less than any other local or online provider. P.S. I never shop in ASDA, went in one once. Very big and scary, way too much choice and full of window lickers

Yep, I a self confessed Defender addict. I've tried to kick the habit but just can't. My latest if my best yet. A completely unmolested, factory spec 50th Anniversary with the standard flip metallic paint, 4LTR V8 automatic. It even has the original tape deck I'm in love Oh and sometimes I start the engine just to listen to the engine ? Sorry trashing your thread OP

That's the model I'm thinking of using. Following with interest! Condensate-drain arrangement ready?

Yup..... and they come with special leaking door seals just to keep them authentic........ love them though.

Beast is on the wall . I’m sure it’s grown !!!

You need to ideally decide on what your final finish coat is going to be and use the correct primer accordingly. E.g. if you are using an oil based undercoat them gloss, ideally you would start with an oil based primer. And you can use a white primer for white/light final coats and a grey for darker finishes

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I would use a 50mm wide batten to cover the gaps all the way down and some stainless steel screws. Photo of what it would look like.

To help you get to grips to the extent you need, here are a few links. it really is all sweat sweat sweat and detail detail detail. Our forum colleague on Gravenhill, @Visti, did a really good cost control process at the point you are at now more or less. For a 184sqm house on Gravenhill: They ended up getting it back down to £265k or so. The ss he built he made available here. https://drive.google.com/file/d/13-diCE3Iu8WrtFUKLe9ZNJs_pwR_ZEB7/view And look at: You at plot 290 seem to be somewhat close to 156. F

It's normal, as long min cover is maintained. If the utility company has an issue, they'll request for the developer to divert the lines (assuming they are existing power cables)

Cables can pass under rivers and streams (the 33KV underground line passes under our burn just upstream under our neighbours garden) so I don't see why not under a pond providing the depth is correct. There are minimum distances for building next to underground lines, I would have to look them up for 33KV but as long as the house is built greater than that distance from the underground line there is no problem. If choosing a house on that development I would be choosing one opposite the underground line, it would quite effectively prevent further houses being added the other side of the road.

@redtop and @colin7777 I have seen this system in oz many times, it is very robust.

Claybar?

I tested my Wagner 3.21 (Titan 440i) on exterior fencing. I was really impressed. HEA pro tips make the job easier as they are low pressure.

another couple of days and a bit more wood

Bco's like beam and block because it's simple to understand. Everything is bearing on the walls which sit on the foundation. Some are not open minded enough to see the benefits of other methods

At the 5.5hr mark. Both pullies spin freely. Pretty much ready to mask up and etch prime!

But reserve your own judgement. You are the one with balls in the slot machine.

I had to deal with an old school building inspector who came in right at the end of our build. His first comment was that he'd never have accepted our passive slab, as he didn't like the fact that the house was sat on EPS. Thankfully that bit had already been signed off, but it does seem that inspectors can be both opinionated and ill-informed.

There are similar concrete beam and insulated block systems... http://www.tetrisfloors.co.uk/beam-and-block/

I'd strip it right back, as it looks very much as if the original bare wood wasn't stopped and primed properly to me. The way that knots are showing through is a pretty good indication of this. If the underlying wood wasn't primed well, or at all, then there is a good chance that the paint adhesion is poor, so any repainting on top will still suffer from that.