Leaderboard

@Iceverge, thanks for all your advice. The brass unit was thoroughly cleaned, and then it's thread was coated with plumber's mate, and then carefully repositioned, and now all is well. 👍

I’ve looked into this quite a bit and decided to go for premtool 12mm tile backer boards. I worked out the following; prices inclusive of vat Plasterboard: £4.5/m2 paintable tanking £10/m2 impey water guard £21/m2 hardie backer: £13/m2 Tile backer: £12.5/m2 both the PB and the hardie backer should be tanked, the tile backer is already waterproof and just needs the joints sealing with CT1 or similar. i therefore believe, for a tanked wetroom, tile backer board is the cheapest option. furthermore, plasterboard can only take up to 32kg/m2 (or thereabouts) which is right on the limit for a 10mm marble, the tile backer board is good for 120kg/m2 and the cement board 200kg/m2. I could have gone cement board (I did at the last place), but they’re heavier, messier, and still need tanking, therefore slower to install and more expensive. modern xps filled tile backer board seemed to me like a no brainer. I liked the look of the impey waterguard self adhesive waterproof sheet (and decoupling membrane), but so expensive, the only people that use this must be limited by buildup height. Ive gone tile backer wall and floor onto 22mm p5 caberdeck

Thank you. We are in Wales. We have gone with the bricks from a local firm. They actually look quite good. The brick layer is doing a fabulous job. They work so hard. Wish I had picked this Company in the beginning. They involve us at every stage. The garden is starting to take shape now.

Yes, but offset to allow the trap and connectors / flexi, so about 400mm away from the ‘hole’ in the tray. Impey wastes can drop into a 110mm fitting, very nice, but needs meticulous planning.

Top tip once you know what size copper pipe it is and you buy 4 suitable 1/4 turn full borr isolators - use two bits of pipe in one of the isolators to determine the length of cut section you need to remove always better than cutting out too much 😉

@Benpointer from my research I believe you are correct and the tannic acid in the timber would/could damage the zinc via water runoff. What I don’t know is if this would happen over a period of a few months, years or over many years in which case it may not matter.

Sorry for the delay - but yes we did this no problems -

I wouldn't be trying that - lets see if @Nickfromwales agrees

Whatever size the pipes are obvs!

Use decent quality ones so they don’t leak! Pegler are v good for the money.

I think @Nickfromwales meant this style

That’s tight as hell, so the only way you’ll get that isolated is to put a pair of 1/4 turns above and another pair below, and don’t even contemplate altering the pipework attached to the UFH, “operation can-of-worms!”. You may have to use standard gate valves if 1/4 turns won’t swing, but ideally you’ll want full bore hence my mention of lever (ball) valves as the preferential ones. You can unbolt the levers if necessary, eg on the lower inner one where it’s getting tight.

Mainly to do with house layout, Heat pump and boiler location. And existing pipe sizes and piping lengths. Cylinder has to have the additional pump as heat pump cannot do the distance because of existing piping size. So additional pump that's a given, I already had the PHE, but could have done close coupled tees or tee in flow and return, but neither worked as neatly as the PHE. But PHE also allows me to remove boiler at any time without breaking into the main heating system.

I am just completing a project with an existing retaining wall. We created a 100mm wide drainage channel at the base, piped to outside via gravity. Wall was tanked with cavity drain membrane. We had a course of blue bricks and a course of Marmox, then timber frame.

I wish it were so. But according to VMZinc's website cedar and zinc are not compatible: "Acidic products and products that can generate a galvanic reaction must not be used with zinc. Run-off from non compatible products onto zinc also must be avoided. In general, products with a ph lower than 5 and higher than 7 are not compatible with zinc.” https://www.vmzinc.com/en-gb/technical-support/general-technical-recommendations/compatibility

Just posting this here for anyone reading later on - I've brought the digger back and I'm taking out another 50mm, that takes my planned buildup to: 200mm - MOT Type 3 80mm - AC10 tarmac 20mm - Resin Bound Gravel Having spoken to some of the well reviewed local driveway companies, it became clear I was skating on the edge of typical specifications, and that seemed like a silly corner to cut.

I’ve used almost nothing but MR plasterboard & tanking for the last 20+ years, and lots have been high end projects (£25k in one bathroom), and I’ve never had a single drip or dribble (and I’ve had the same phone number for 25 years). Lots of these have been 1st floor installs over timber joists. Tanking is your friend, so why tank over something more expensive than plasterboard?

Keep the HERAS up and secured. And if possible a time lapse camera - to evidence who has - and who says they have (but hasn't) - visited the site. The BC is irrelevant: but the District Valuation Officer is relevant . How I wish I'd known that four years ago.

You will find that BC don’t really care when you are in and will be reluctant to get involved They are there to make sure the building is built to there rules Nothing else Certainly not HSE Just the council tax bods will be interested in order get paying as soon as possible

👌

We do own the house at the front and it is where we are living at the moment (cramped etc). A 'bodged' water supply is easy though (I don't mean that rudely)

I am the main contractor 🙂 😱

You have some sort of up stand / outside tap? If so, now the weathers broken, you can just run 15mm push-fit pipe to that for potable water. Baby Belling cooker and a microwave, with a bit of worktop with a sink in it for wash up, and slide the washing machine under the side of that for some clean trolleys. 👍.

As I've suggested before, add monitoring/logging for the high and low pockets in the tank, I expect you'll see the top stays permanently at/above target and the bottom around 10°C or smth

That'll teach me. I'm supposed to be working, so I can afford to build a house. The source was my head - just a vague notion I'd formed having watched so many Scottish MPs speaking in the House of Commons (watching them on telly, that is - I've never been there) & looking at those constituency maps that are in newspapers around election time. So, if Google is to be believed (& very often, it isn't). mid 2023 England pop = 57,690,300, Scotland = 5,490,100. From 650 constituencies, 543 are in England & 57 are in Scotland. That gives 106,243 constituents per English constituency & only 96,317 constituents per Scottish constituency. So your average MP representing a constituency in England is looking after more than 10% additional constituents when compared to the average MP in Scotland. & I wouldn't dare suggest that there may be more than 10 times as many Scottish born MPs representing English constituencies than there are English born MPs up in Scotland, because I might have to spend the rest of the day Googling to support that claim. Now, I must concede., although this bias in Scotland's favour is significant, it's not quite as bad as I thought & probably less than the skew in wind turbines. If you or @ProDave want to tell me I've got my facts wrong, I'll agree with you, in the hope that this will encourage you to continue to help me build my house. It's got off to a bad start, & I need all the help I can get.

Don’t overthink The majority of bathrooms that I tile are on moister plasterboard The yellow gypsum Hardy boards are out perform most But the reality is that if water is penetrating through the tiles and adhesive They need to come off Regardless of what boards are on Don’t overthink I’m starting to tile a 5 million pound house this week We’ve just used moister plasterboard on all the wet rooms and we will cover this with impi tanking In short What ever you put on will be fine

Not a plumber, however I boxed off the areas where the trays would sit before the screed was laid. Fitted the waste in position before screed, I recommend 50mm waste pipe for runs over 2 metres. Then added a concrete pad of correct depth above PIR to allow for flush fitting of tray to final floor level. Does depend on depth of tray, mine was 40mm but will need to sit on a pad to adhere to.

You should drop your worktop height down 75mm to make it easier to work on. I’ve just dropped ours to approximately 850 for my shorty wife.

+1 for big drawers rather than cupboards. Separate pantry is best for all the paraphernalia.

star wars reference - to you might need some serious jedi skills if you disturb that rats nest of pipework

Every room's a whine room if my missus is in it.

MacDonald's ratio?