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After @DevilDamo and tight as a natt’s chuff!

build it on a tray with an drain to outside?

My tuppence hal’penney’s worth…..

Metal is incredibly fast. 2 men did 90m2 for us in about 4hrs and it was perfectly level. We varied the ceiling void from 300mm to just about enough to fit the 75mm MVHR pipes in different rooms to maximise ceiling height. The only place I would consider timber is with 22x70mm strapping where there was no ducting, again to maximise the ceiling height. However you'd need a lots of shimming to get it level as the hollowcore slabs have a curve on the bottom.

No no no no no. Stick to the metal. It goes up so fast, perfectly level and straight, little wastage, great sound insulating properties.

You do not need to meet any requirements. Just fit out the space the best you can.

correct

It does (can) if the WC’s are sharing the balanced feed from the UVC multi block aka control group (PRedV). If the cold mains isn’t great, then I always recommend feeding the WC’s off the raw cold main, before any pressure reducing gets done.

I'm firmly on the "ASHP flow rate does not have to (and will not) equal heat emiiter flow rate" side of the buffer (3P & 4P) argument. Mine is designed not to and works perfectly well, meeting manufacturer declared COP. But, if you can avoid a buffer, save the capital investment.

Talking out of their butt. Biggest question for me would be, why do I need a buffer at all? One zone or a couple of large zones, zero need. I suspect they will cover your house in thermostats, all third party on off ones, screw up your efficiency and charge you a pretty penny also. If they are not budging on buffer, ask how he is balancing the flow either side of the buffer, if asks why, look to sack him, as they really has no clue what he's doing and why. KISS the heat pumps best friend

Yep. Is it his first install? 3-Way before the buffer to select between buffer and UVC.

carbon emissions, - I care but can’t quantify with any certainty so this can’t guide me EPDs, - don’t know what they are. recyclability - I intend what I put in to last decades so don’t care about recyclability. sustainability - unless I know that a particular product I’m looking at is really bad news then this isn’t a factor. I’m not going to have a tiger skin rug but telling between different types of ceramic floor tiles? aesthetics, - bingo. The big one. functionality, cost, durability - all hygiene factors not motivators.

I think there are three. We used a Roughneck Mortar Gun successfully and cleanly on our sandstone slabs.

I should warn you that many academics only want to hear you agreeing with them. For example , they believe Breeam to be a sensible guide to sustainability. You might want to establish what your examiner expects / wants you to say. Or give two conflicting points of view.

Don't laugh but when I had to do a similar thing, I cut out cardboard shapes to scale of bath, shower wc, basin etc and their respective activity spaces and played a game of tetris with them to find a layout that would fit.

You've got the right idea - run an excess of cables as it is inherently cheap compared to trying to run an extra one once all the finishing is done. You don't need to terminate them right away. I'd expect a requirement for more than one PoE camera externally to be honest, but I don't know your situation. As @SuperJohnG notes, run a couple to an external location at the front and back of the house for external WiFi access points you may want/need in the future. Don't install just one at each TV point though - I'd recommend at least two and probably four. You only really need one cable for decent access points - they can take their power and data over a single cable with PoE, so I'd run cables to ceiling locations in every major room where you might want great WiFi coverage. It's easy to connect multiple switches together and you are unlikely to need the high-speed switching backplane that would differentiate a single 48-port switch and connecting two 24-port switches, so I'd probably advise looking at a 24-port switch to start, with the requisite number of PoE ports in it to provide power to your PoE devices such as cameras and access points. I work in IT and have hard-wired TVs, cameras, a NAS that has 4 x 1Gb connections, and various other physical devices including my Mac Mini and a desktop PC that are also hardwired, and I don't have more than 24 active ports. I do have 3 PoE access points though that provide WiFi connectivity for a whole host of devices, including all the laptops, tablets, phones and home automation devices.

I'd install no more than 1 at each TV point. You really don't need them. I'd add an outdoor one for an wifi access point..

Why does entrance hall require 2 access points? I'd probably run at least 4 to at least each main TV point as they soon get used up and most face plates will be 4 gang Consider additional PoE camera positions, even if cameras not installed. I'd probably go Ubiquiti, UDM Dream Machine Special Edition, Pro 48 PoE switch and access points. Check your PoE requirements before committing Go for keystone patch panels, much easier to work with

My take was install all the cables you think you will need, but only connect the ones you actually have a use for. Like you I installed 3 to each tv point but I can never see all 3 being used. Partly my reason for installing several was in the event of some cable type superseding hdmi, I can probably use 2 network cables and a clever adapter to replicate the next standard in AV cabling. I think what I am saying is you won't need a 48 port switch.

Great

Hah, I meant my calculation was naive, not yours ^^. You're doing great, tackle the jobs you have time for and come back to the rest when you can.

No need for AVCL in a cavity wall, full or part fill - not sure how it would be installed! Wall may show slight condensation risk but will still comply with BS5250 on condensation & moisture in buildings. Stop worrying about it.

I’d have done it for £20 less. 👍. “£20 is £20” 🤣

About 21 feet each then, that's wide!