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@flanagaj, To answer your question, you already have the formula in your photo above. You already seem to know what x and y will be in that diagram from what you are saying in your messages here. So working out that angle should be straightforward (unless we are all missing something). However, you'll eventually work out the angles and lengths, do the birds mouth cut, install your ridge beam, cut your rafter with the calculated lengths and angles and then find it doesn't fit as snugly as you hoped. It's a building materials thing. It happens all the time. What @joe90 says above is the way to go. If you don't want to use then use CAD - Cardboard Aided Design - a piece of scrap cardboard, marked up against the fitted ridge beam, then transfer onto the rafter before cutting.

You may have a xover problem with a mixer. Can you turn off the cold water supply to your shower and mixing taps, reduce the DHW temp setpoint to 40C and see if combi fires up when you switch on the shower.

I recessed a standard Hager metal CU. The Hager one had round conduit knock outs that with it recessed come out behind the plasterboard. The only real difference between a standard CU and one sold as recessed, is when you recess a standard one, you have to be accurate cutting the plasterboard around it as the front only overlaps a little. The ones sold as recessed tend to have a larger "flange" around the front to hide imperfections.

Well, when I have done a cut roof I use the “template” one and make sure it fits everywhere first, if you offer it up and it’s 10mm out make that adjustment for that one (not that any of mine were out of course 🙄)

There's good reason for roofers to put up temporary timbers and measure the lengths. Nearly all buildings have twists in them and the cumulative effect can be dramatic. Then allow for the complex abutments at both ends. I'm no expert but I've seen seasoned joiners get it wrong. I wonder if it is safe to mass produce after the first one? I suspect not. It is much worse at hips. Even with a precision made steel building (computers all the way) we knew to allow sliding joints to make sure they fitted.

The design will give you the pitch, that's the angle. If you want a set Ridge height then you work back from that height for your wall plate height, (Ridge height - Rise) the angle does not change. The birdsmouth depth will be similar to the wall plate thickness.

As far as I’m aware in a mains fed hot water tank this problem doesn’t exist.

I’d 30 trusses to birds mouth before building the roof An engineers drawing with lots of detail I still ended up adding an extra wall plate either side to give me enough depth on the birds mouth It will become apparent as soon as you start

My version is “Crayon aided design” 🤣

Or does this help - https://www.mycarpentry.com/roof-pitch-calculator.html

Make sure all the walls are finished and grouted before any prep work is done to the floors They need prepping tiled grouted Then protecting till your ready to move in

I think you've got that spot on.

Do yourself a really really big favour and send that back and swap it for flexible ducting. I don’t know what your design calls for but I would go 90mm rather than 75.

That sounds like a lot of waffle that translates into: "There is a bug in the software that under certain heating situations, the controller is unable to switch over to hot water heating and just heat the hot water. And we don't know how to fix it" Anyone disagree?

Knowledgeable Worcester engineer visited this morning. Nothing to do with cross bleed via the mixers ( didn't believe it was) and apparently nothing to do with flow switch ( i thought it likely was). Basically it comes down to the PID control of the heater when water temperature is falling just below the set point from an already high winter set point temperature. It does not appear to be able to modulate enough to prevent overshoot of the target. A greater engaged water volume in the radiators would allow the excess temperature to have somewhere to go. Upshot is a high temp 'blocking code' that needs about 3-4 minutes before it will allow any more heat to be produced. Bloody software engineers.

Obviously assuming this is a non load bearing wall. The hager board needs a minimum of 72mm to recess from the finished wall surface. With the 12.5mm plasterboard on each side (+ probably around 10mm each for dot and dab) you'd be right on the limit for being over 50mm from the other side of the wall assuming standard 100mm block. In reality though, good luck chasing a massive hole 50mm out of crumbly block without it falling to bits. Put it in the external wall or make do with a surface mount box.

We had a similar design challenge for our garden design and we used a landscape designer to help solve it. I provided a lot of detail in this post, which may be helpful

I am pretty handy in Qgis if you wanted to send me the dxf / dwg file I can see what I can do with it. The ease of ot will depend if the surveyors file is in 3d or not (they should be)

This week the roof was cut in. Can see the spaces for the Velux rooflights and get a different picture of the inside - the vaulted ceilings in the rear living area in particular. The builder recommended a ceiling in the upstairs bedrooms at around the 3 meter / 9 foot mark which is high enough even if you're bouncing on the bed! Still leave a bit of space for storage so may leave a small hatch and floor this area after setting it up. It's a warm roof so this is all conditioned space. Next week they'll add OSB and Solitex WA, then baton and counter baton and that's them finished! The roofer is due in after Easter to install the tiles and the Velux will go in sometime then also. There is also an AEV for venting the soil pipe to install. There's a ventilated ridge, and other details that will be interesting to see installed. Should stop ice dams forming! Big decision point is around the rear picture window - it's to be metal clad. There is the option of adding additional insulation on the outside and then stud work for the ventilation behind the steel cladding or just insulate internally only. Also the roof of this feature needs to be worked out. Some drain to the back of the house but that needs a gutter. Most drain towards the house which I didn't realise and the water channels to either side. This junction has to be perfect or it ensures rain ingress. There's a good local team recommended by the builder so I've left word and hope they'll get in touch next week so they can build out the 7 degree backward slope needed for the roof of this area. There is a lot of metal posts in the house which worry me but I had a few hours onsite today to take my time and see if it's something to worry about or not. The contact area with the foundation or wall are very small so there may be cold spots but I feel for a first attempt, the detailing is sufficient. I just didn't realize how decisions about moving walls etc impacted structural changes until I saw them onsite. Decisions made years ago haunting me a bit, but I can live it! It's still a wonderful house. The next two will be better!! The air tightness will be a challenge but I got some samples of Tapes, Gutex and Phonotherm I plan to use by driving to the company I'm buying them off and seeing their warehouse up front. I hope to entice one of their technical guys onsite for an hour to get their advice on a few things. I expect a detailed post at a future date to address this. Lots to think about. I plan on using Moy Metac in the timber frame wall - 220mm worth. The frames are mostly at 600mm centers. I'd calculated I'd need 43 rolls off the plans but now looking like 53 when I did a quic calc onsite. They do a roll that is exactly 220mm deep and 1200mm wide so plan to cut in 1/2 and it should press fit in the space nicely. I could do this before the windows and doors arrive, just need to find a good price! And hope it isn't swiped! Windows to be measured either next week or 2 weeks later due to builders holidays. Delivery 9-10 weeks after that. Bricklayer, still chasing quotes! Hope to get that done Late April / Early May. Waiting on council to approve brick style as the plain red in the estate isn't to my taste, I've gone for a blend of brown, red and beige. As a project there's a LOT to think about, decisions to be made and money to be managed! Spending is SO easy, tracking it and keeping in budget not so much!!

Oh yes, my day job used to be negotiating projects with high spend customers and I was good at it which helps, however any point of view must be backed up by knowledge.

A combi boiler uses a flow switch on the DHW to startup the boiler. It either isn't seeing enough flow or is a defective flow switch. Do you have a combi save devise installed, if you don't know you probably haven't. Is it the same for all taps or outlets, i.e. it never starts up? I would go around each outlet and log what happens to the boiler. Also your flow temp for the central heating seems very high.

One RING final 32A 2.5mm serving all the kitchen sockets. Double pole isolator above worktop to feed spured socket to each of Dishwasher, Tumble dryer, Fridge freezer and boiler. One lighting circuit 6A 1mm to feed all ceiling and under unit lights. Radial 32A 6mm to hob via above worktop isolator Radial 32A 6mm to oven via above worktop isolator. Check with your chosen electrician that he really is happy for you to pull the cables for him to connect, he will no doubt want to agree cable routing with him and tell you the rules. Don't forget if a new water or gas service entered the extension to include a 10mm earth bonding cable.

You will cover the pipe fully with the pea gravel. At least 100mm of gravel all around the pipe. 10mm of any type of stone won't do anything. Dig the trench with a 300mm bucket and the pipe goes in the middle and will leave you the 100 each side. Then you can cover it over. If the clay is dry you can use this to put over the gravel and build it up to what ever height suits your path. Then the crushed stone whatever one you go for. Type 1 is used for paths and roads as it has the fines so compacts really well and holds together.

>>> What am I missing 🤯 A bit of graph paper, a ruler and a biro maybe?

Lime & Cement I had a builder friend renovate part of our 450 year old house. He said he would use a lime & cement mix for the internal render, since he had been doing it "all his life". It failed and cracked in the time honoured tradition, so that you could see every one of the stone mortar joints under the render. When I susequently went on a lime building course at Ty Mawr Lime, Brecon, I relayed my experience. They said the mix was totally inappropriate and bound to fail. They also advised that the modulus of elasticity of the lime mix is some 400 times more flexible than good old cement. We removed it and re-rendered it with lime and it was perfect. Unfortunately, it seemed to me he had been doing it "all his life" wrong!

Late as possible . Ours recently went in after 11 yrs ☺️