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Us too - brilliant to deal with.

if you buy Intello Plus and Tescon Vana from Germany it's a LOT cheaper! the intello plus is damn good stuff. really tough as well and the Tescon Vana tape is super sticky and definitely recommended. around the windows you'll probably want to use the Tescon Profil as it's split to give you the return on the window edge. personally on the airtightness stuff i wanted the best products so i bought the best. obviously everyone has different requirements! bought mine from Latzel Dammstoffe and can definitely recommend them.

Sounds to me like a realisation of reality, that it is simply not possible to power everything from renewables and a realisation that electricity demand will double. I think it is the first time i have seen such an admission. What strikes me given the growth in electricity demand and the growth in renewable generation, which we know to be rather dependant on the weather hence unreliable, is just how little energy storage there is in that mixture. I have said for a while people are more likely to get on board and support the changes if the targets are realistic and achievable, and some praise is given for the progress we have already made. Set an unachievable target, and treat everyone as though nobody has done a thing yet to reduce emissions and you get a disinterested public.

We have 157m2 ( close to 500m2 of wall and roof) and we brought 16 rolls of vana, 2 of profile, only need enough to go around all the windows, and 3 of the 4m wide ( that's a lot but we have about half a roll over) Intello plus.

An old XJS in the garage might be a good idea if the headline in the Telegraph today is anything to go by: "Warning that Chinese electric car ‘invasion’ could paralyse Britain" in short if they don't like us, whenever, they just turn the cars off! Lots of opportunities to cut demand in an instant!

If the only think that is pushing the OP towards imprinted concrete over paved slabs is the weed issue, then I can recommend Marshall's Drivesys cobble system. Each "cobble" is cast from concrete and has a ridge, so that once laid there is a barrier preventing weed growth. The diagram below isn't that clear, but effectively each "cobble" has a 6mm ridge protruding around the perimeter of the bottom half of the cobble, so that when installed adjacent to another cobble, there is a 12mm gap between cobbles (above the ridge). That 12mm gap is then filled with the joining compound to create a barrier. Weeds don't get through. You can get a very nice "cobbled" look, but with the benefits of modern engineering. I think that at most it would work out the same as imprinted concrete, but probably a bit less.

They do have a misleading name. But we have all heard of them and that's their goal. I've never been affected by them but then I don't drive in a big English city or watch cricket or snooker much.

Quite a few modern stoves are 'convection' type stoves, so, as mentioned above they can be sited closer to walls. Ours is, and irrespective of safety distances you can put your hand pretty close to the stove metal - they don't radiate much heat out the sides/back. More traditional stoves that radiate heat probably can't do this. We have ours around 150mm from fire resistant plasterboard (the pink stuff) with no obvious signs of it popping.

Have you chosen your stove yet? some like the one we bought can be fitted just 100mm from combustible materials and ours is just over 1oomm from plasterboard.

Whatever the manufacturer instructions / hetas guides advise

Hi, yes I was meaning new blockwork or plaster. At that age both will be dry so there is water to expand and ‘blow’

As long as the plaster and blockwork isn’t green then 100mm should be more than enough. I’ve used breeze and concrete blocks as heat protection from fierce gas/air flames without problem so 100mm to a stove is nothing

If he reinvoices to you and you pay him, then there should be no problem. This is what we had to do with our ground worker; who bought all our Bricks, Sand and Cement, and roof tiles, and then reinvoiced us including VAT. I paid him before he paid the builder's merchant. Got it back in the claim.

I think you mean without charges, historic vehicles are exempt. (Just found out my classic is also exempt from the Bristol Clean air zone. 👍).

why is he refusing ? could always mention you will complain to hmrc for vat fraud, an audit from them no one wants!

Just use it in a rotation fashion around the pipe, do not 'polish' linear to the run, as that make make lines vs the 'rings' that you want to create. I'd say it will be fine, but I would also say it would need a good 72hrs at low . mid . high pressure test, and to be filled and emptied (to stress and relax the joint a few times) so maybe set this up as the outside tap and use it a few times a day for a few days.

I agree, until storage and network is upgraded abandoning gas and oil instantly is impossible. Yes they will get slated for it but I think it’s pragmatic. If we can stop buying oil and gas from Putin that has to be a good thing. The comment that carbon capture is a smokescreen is also not true as Norway (I think) has been doing it since 1996. modern cars, petrol and diesel are far cleaner than an old XJS and modern wood burning stoves cleaner than old models so going back 50 years is just silly.

I generally agree with the sentiment but I’m not sure in this instance there is any practical difference in results (assuming the air tightness tape is something decent like tescon vana). It might be the op has all I suggest to hand and it is a straightforward solution. but as always it is up to the op to weigh up the suggestions and go from there.

My backside. A hip should be straight up the line of the apex, even and pleasing to the eye, who told you otherwise? But to make a cogent argument you need to start on the inside of the roof and see how the rafters frame into the hip timber. If the joiner has made a pigs ear of that then the poor roofer is fighting a loosing battle.. in fact the roofer should have told you.. I'll do my best but your timber roof is crap. If you can show that the timber roof is ok then next look at the tile battens and so on.. go through it step by step, if it transpires the roofer has cocked up then fair enough. However that hip is a mess. Try and understand what has gone wrong and then work with all the folk that had a hand in building the roof to make it look a bit better. I think geometrically the problem has started at the eaves as the roofer has not understood how the angles work. It is really hard to get your head round this so mistakes are common. But I think most of the problem lies in just bad workmanship, not using a stringline and not using the correct mortar.

I had exactly the same, I worked out tiles and adhesive would be roughly 25mm high. so I fixed a 25mm batten to the plant room floor at a point just inside the plant room door. I then added a very tough high build floor leveller inside this batten bringing the floor up 25mm. when dry I removed the batten and painted the new screed with a couple of coats of garage floor paint. all plant and tanks sit on this new screed. the tiler came and tiled up neatly to my new raised screed. 2mm aluminium trim over join between tiles and painted floor. worked perfectly.

Why bodge, do it right, you may never be able to get to the joint easily once the house is built. The right solution costs nothing, compared to another 50m of duct.

Some years ago my elderly mother purchased an oven and was sold an extended warranty. I was about to tell her that extended warranties were a waste of money when she mentioned it came with an annual clean! Every year a man came and professionaly cleaned it for her. Worth every penny.

https://www.ventilationland.co.uk/product/25376/ubbink-coupling-piece-for-round-duct-o-75-63.html?utm_source=googleshoppingUK&utm_campaign=googleshopping-FeedUK&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjZnshPO2gAMVztbtCh1HrgefEAQYAiABEgK51PD_BwE would something like this be suitable?

You're welcome. Even with a FIT system you can chop and change pretty much what you like since OFGEM changed the FIT scheme rules 18 months ago. You can change components not like for like, increase or decrease capacity and add batteries with some restrictions. About the only thing you can't do is move a system to another property. If you add capacity you only get paid for the original accreditted capacity. Once youve changed stuff just let your FIT payer know

I recently designed a foundation like this for a client that used Nudura ICF. Ditch the old school 150mm sub deck, lose the screed, add a bit more insulation, and raise the 120-130mm constructional slab up to become your finished internal floor. This shows a near enough example, just has a different wall structure. The UFH pipes go into the concrete layer, so I recommend going slightly thicker with ground bearing infill slab to give some extra cover over the UFH pipes which get zip=tied to the reinforcement steel (re-bar). At 100mm this can get quite close to top of concrete, so the one I detailed had 120mm iirc, vs the 100mm. Gives a hell of a long 'thermal time constant' / energy store which you can almost heat once per night at cheap rate via ASHP for running costs down as low as a few pence/kWh. There are loads of examples of this being done here, so I suggest you do some searching on here before pushing any buttons, but your chosen method is not optimum for insulation, running costs, or practicality imho.

Apparently, J&S are rumoured to be working on an air-to-water ASHP unit + heat exchanger that would fit on the same ducting footprint as our current J&S unit. As it's air-to-water it would be eligible for the government grant (air-to-air isn't). When it might see the light of day is anyone's guess though!

Sorry, this is not a response to the noise issue, but can I make a suggestion re the insulation? If the MVHR unit is in a cold loft I would suggest that 25mm EPS is insufficient for its 'shed'. Better than nothing at all, definitely, but I think I'd go for significantly more. Actually, while writing that a thought came re attenuators further to @jfb's comment. Think motorcycle or car silencer if you DIY and don't want to do it with OSB. Offcuts of different -diameter galv ducting, drill-bits, thin sheet steel and HSS drill-bits (and the rockwool mentioned) could fit the bill.

Do you have a sound attenuator on the supply side (extract as well)? this is what is needed to reduce the sound from the vents. I made my own for my first project and that worked very well. Basically an osb box with sound rockwool batts on the inside (with batts sticking out into the middle to disrupt the airflow - large enough to allow enough airflow). Second project I bought an attenuator (just cylinder with sound absorption ) and it hasn’t been as good as the one I made. I didn’t have a problem with noise from the machine itself - most of the noise was coming through the vents.

Flush downlights in a 45 degree sloping ceiling will probably not shine the light where you want it to shine. For our vaulted ceiling I used surface mount spotlights that you can point any way you want them to, and they work well.

excellent news. All green tax should be suspended until china has closed its last coal fired power station as its completely pointless until that happens. Loony lefties can of course voluntarily give up all oil based products and services, but why do they always want to force others to do the same ? No wonder Hitler was a socialist.

Well as @joe90 said, Just stop Oil want us to stop using oil right now. Totally unrealistic. We are transitioning to more renewable generation, just as fast as wind farms and the electricity distribution network can be built. Banging on to "the public" about the need for change is not going to speed that up. We have already discussed how there are artificial hurdles put in the way of installing heat pumps. Buying an electric car now is just likely to result in more fossil fuelled electricity to charge them. Constantly being told "we" are not doing enough just makes me feel like "well I bloody well will buy a historic V8 petrol Range Rover and drive it all around the London LEZ then"