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Show the existing and proposed works and show the dimensions for the new works. Photos would help too.

Have to agree, once the gutters have been there a month no one ever looks at the again, except for cleaning them once or twice a year. Lots of fiddly details that have to be correct, none of cheap. If you ever have a leaking gutter, a normal one drips on your head, eventually you'll fix it, no harm done, integrated, could leak for years and make a good old mess of the house structure. I would get them to itemise the cost saving, maybe not much savings overall to change the joists, maybe more saving from getting a second supplier to quote. We have 9.5m long posi rafters in the gand scheme not expensive, come ready to drop in place. The extra I paid for the rafter, I saved twice over on labour for the architect solution.

Personal or practical...?. I would never have an internal gutter. If they block, the water runs down the wall , at best. When not blocked, the rain runs down pipes somewhere inside your building. Making a noise, breaking the insulation layer, and someday blocking or leaking. And for what? External gutters and pipes will also save you £50/m at a guess. There are attractive ones.

This is what I did on a bigger outbuilding with tiled roof. How much is necessary I don't know.. Install duct for electricity. I used rebar hammered into ground and cable ties to hold duct in position. Level ground and compact with wacker plate. Add hardcore and compact in two layers. Add 25mm sand blind and compact. Add shuttering and plastic sheet to stop concrete losing water before it sets up. Pour concrete and level with top of shuttering. Push heads of long bolts into the concrete to later bolt building down. I used threaded rod and nuts. Support while concrete sets if necessary. Put lengths of pipe over bolts to stop you being impaled if you trip over.

Just draw a freehand sketch of what you are doing post it here and I’ll help you add a few notes. Seriously - I’m a BCO and I see worse everyday.

I buy OK ones off eBay for cheap enough to just change whenever a job requires a new sharp blade. Don’t forget there’s different blades for different tasks.

He is talking BS. AS you PV starts to generate power, it reduces what is imported from the grid, and when the power generated by the solar exceeds what is being used in the house it exports to the grid. Your inverter is "grid tied" so that means it has to be connected to the grid and it synchronises the waveform it generates to match the frequency and phase of the incoming mains. If you did switch it over as your guy is suggesting it would promptly switch off as it would not see the grid frequency to synchronise to. Just leave it as it is. You are getting paid a generous FIT rate, so it does not matter is a lot of it gets exported. But as @SteamyTea says you can get a solar PV diverter that sends any surplus to usually an immersion heater for water heating. Those are more important for recent installations that don't get a FIT so you want to self use as much as possible.

I would at least put the door opening in the wall if being built out of block. I would make it a normal hinged door opening into the bedroom. You would be creating a Jack & Jill bathroom, nothing wrong with that. Don't forget light switch wiring so the light can be turned on from either entrance.

Hello, stranger! Yes, as with everything the government are involved with, a complete cake & arse party. Forget it. Better option would be to chase any grant for fabric improvements like insulation (cavity & EWI) and 3G. How infinite is your supply of properly seasoned (20% or less) wood?

You probably only need ufh in the ground floor and, if you want that warm tile underfoot feeling, in the bathrooms. My house is nowhere near passive, but the bedrooms are well insulated following an extensive refurb and extension, and apart from our kids bedrooms, which SWMBO insists need to be 21C at night, we never have the heating on in the bedrooms. The MVHR is pretty good at averaging out the temperatures to an extent and imo bedrooms are best at about 18.7C anyway. So keep your ground floor slab warm during winter and your ground floor will be 21 and your bedrooms on the upper floors will get close to that.

Welcome. MVHR is ventilation. By definition the mass flow rate of the air in it is quite small. A few kilograms a minute. The specific heat capacity of air is also very low, 1 kJ/kg.K. There are 3,600 kJ in a kWh, or 10p worth of mains gas. So to get a meaningful rise in temperature, you either have to pump a lot of warm air in i.e. larger ducts, or have a high temperature (think a fan heater). So either noisy, or smelly.

Hi and welcome. I would take the manufacturer blurb with a pinch of salt. If you base your ventilation rates on passivhaus then heating via the ventilation system is limited to 10W/m2, otherwise the dust in the air starts to give off a burning smell. So basically a really well designed and built house would be ok, but I wouldn't design a house with all my eggs in one manufacturers basket. If you embed UFH pipes, they cost very little and gives you somewhere to move to if things aren't quite what you expect.

I could be wrong, but I think you're looking for EN 14825. There's a decent explanation here: https://www.varmepumpsforum.com/vpforum/index.php?action=dlattach;ts=1505933467;topic=65119.0;attach=49952 An average year is binned into temperatures which gives a good agreement with lab test data, I was pleasantly surprised with how accurate it should be. There are quite sweeping climate classifications (average, cold, warm) but it seems to do the job. It's calculated from lab testing points, so I believe it would be performing weather compensation in those conditions yes. Caveat this entire post with I've never actually read EN 14825, I just thought it was interesting when looking at A2A manufacturer claims.

Can you post a full screen shot of the drawing ( without personal details) I'm unsure as to the total design and where you intend to make savings? At the moment your rafters are pressing down on the wall and Steel I Beam at the apex (BLUE) They are pressing up ( RED) and in turn transferring the load to the foundations via the walls. I assume the I beam is supported by pillars or the gable walls. It's pretty normal and allows your chippies to use off the shelf timbers and I can't see it as a very expensive solution. The Ecojoists ( metal space joists- pozi joists) for the floor of the upstairs won't really have much effect of the roof AFAIK. Attic trusses won't work unless you are prepared to loose some internal space from the rooms for bracing as well as at the apex. An elegant solution might be a scissors (vaulted) type truss. You'll still get a vaulted ceiling but your internal pitch won't be the same as the external. You can do away with the ridge beam then. Excuse the ropy drawings. Here's one from the internet.

Half / double doesn't seem right. Best check their input?

Another way to save money: is there some way you can get yourselves back into the house safely? Slum it in a caravan on the drive? (make it an exciting adventure for your child?) Paying rent on top of trying to save up is one step forward, 2 steps back

Can you look online at your local authority online planning dept and download other extension plans, Fife council let’s you download plans, so if I saw an extension in the street I liked I could download their plan and get some ideas for layout etc.

The walls have to be structural, and may be thicker than the norm to support the long span. Then there is no point on doubling up the joists...the SE and supplier will advise the spec. NB.. if the optimum centres don't suit plasterboard sizes, it would be best to ignore that, buy the best value joists, (for example 350 cc) and counterbatten for the ceiling.

Yep it's why we are now doing external

My feeling is that the extra steel beam and supports woyld exceed the saving on joists, and complicate construction . This based on a project I did using fabricated joists to clients surprise. Not a lot in it, and it would need calculating both ways......but then your SE rightly has another fee. Whoever told you that trusses might be better, get them to sketch it so it us clear what they meant. In doing so they will likely change their mind anyway. If not, we may see a great idea.

Don't just put a shed on a concrete base that's bigger. Rain lands on the perimeter and runs under or rots out the bottom. Either raise the shed on a coarse of engineering bricks or make the slab slightly smaller than the shed and raised above the surrounding ground. The idea is rain hitting the walls of the shed drips off onto the ground not the top of the slab. You can also put gravel filled trenches around to reduce splashing up onto the walls.. I'd probably go for 100 + 100mm.

@CalvinHobbes Trying to save £. We are getting told if we change to roof trusses we won't have to use ecoojoists. Not necessarily. If you change to attic trusses them yes - the bottom chord becomes the floor joist. If however you change to a standard fink truss with a raised collar then no you will still need to keep the EcoJoists. and make a big saving. Would it be possible to use an i joist (even with a steel) instead and leave roof asplanned? Yes. Place a steel beam centrally in the room to break the span of the IJoist or whatever you’re planning to use. Probably the cheapest option but factor in cost of steel (including fire protection) SE fees and SE to look at supporting walls and structure to make sure the steel beam can be supported. The roof can stay as it is.

Your links can get kW right. Why the (expletive deleted) can't you.

Ok, so you’ll be taping / filling aka dry lining? If so, just use the paper tape as said, filling the valley with filler first. Then sand it out. Me personally, I’d skim it. Much better job and by the time you’ve filled taped and sanded, the plaster would have been done, finished and in the pub.

What space / which room is this?

From memory the osb web versions give more options for non standard joists like yours, so are a bit cheaper. Metal for standard spans. But with fluctuating osb prices it needs checking. An off the wall suggestion, esp if you have an SE, is to consider plating the ceiling in plywood, which might allow reductions in joist constituents, and be less deep.

8.1m is a very long clear span. Ecojoists or similar by another name will just do it but will be deep and expensive. Trusses rely on filling the space with lighter weight diagonals, but they fill the space and you lose the rooms. What your drawing shows looks optimum to me. Expensive but optimum.i

Yes, a lot of my clients say they've managed to date, but the issue becomes problematic when installing new equipment and expecting the warranties to be honoured. Most manufacturers will swab when there is a failure, and if the PPM is above what they accept, then bye bye warranty. Your call of course. WS's are around £600 for an entry level unit, others may have found cheaper units that they are happy with. Incoming rising main needs to be, Stopcock Double-check non return (installed immediately after stopcock) Drain off cock

We are getting quotes for A2A system in at the moment and solar / battery. (battery is very minimal investment return if any but I'm willing to go there as I prefer to have the flexibility to use what we generate) Was nightmare to get started with A2A as few companies around central belt Scotland and a lot that are commercial only. Getting there slowly so hope to have a system in by July latest. The immersion we want replaced with unvented cylinder with multiple immersions. Solar should wipe out summer power use with divert to cylinder / battery. Winter we're looking to buy cheap rate and battery store to reduce cost of flipping all heating from cheap rate. Remains to be seen how this works out for us so we're keeping the storage heaters for the 1st winter. Happy to share the spec we went with. I have another thread that has some info on the quotes I've got so far here

That is odd as most systems are turned off on the AC side first. The DC side can be delivering quite a high current to the inverter and arcing can occur. Turning the AC side off first and the inverter will automatically shut down safely ass it mimics a power cut.

The left hand side switch (black) is the DC isolator, right hand side one (red) is the AC isolator, yellow box is the inverter and the little grey box with the LED display is the generation meter.

For your information our PV complements our mains power. That is to say when it produces an output this feeds into our mains and is either used to supplement our demand or heads to the grid. Ours does not turn on or off.

I think photos are required!

Sounds like he does not have much experience with PV. You can get PV diverters that will switch on a load when there is excess PV generation to reduce exports, but that does not sound like what he is saying. In general a PV system has two isolators, one on the DC side from the roof modules, and other on the AC side after the consumer unit (fuse box). Between those two are the Inverter and the generation meter. The Inverter is what does all the magic in converting, conditioning and controlling the PV generation, the meter just shows a record of what it has delivered.

No you are right. Warning: Short essay follows. The concrete slab is made to be flat and hard. It sits on stone which is rougher and not bonded, but strong enough for the load. This sits on ground that also has to be strong enough...which it will be unless someone has put soft fill in. Also as these layers progress, the loading spreads out further. So a 1m2 slab is spreading its load over about 2m2. The barbecue could sit on stone as far as strength is concerned, but the concrete keeps it controllable, tidy and clean, plus it spreads the load more efficiently. If the clay shrinks in summer the barbecue will drop a few mm and nobody will notice as all the ground will have dropped. Then in winter it absorbs water and rises again. For a bigger structure like a house, the movement could be very different at various areas, due to the distance from the tree that absorbs the water, so could cause damage. So deep foundations take the structure below the drying and shrinking clay. But only the foundations go deeper to where the clay stays unaffected. Slabs are usually sat on stone just below the original ground level. Building inspectors are notorious for instructing another 30cm be taken out. Sometimes there is good reason, and sometimes it is their insurance against not having researched the rules. I say no, as can another SE....but usually a contractor will do as the bco says....esp as the client pays. It is perhaps an anomaly that we never allow for trees that might be grown in the future. In reality, it us unusual to plant big species in proximity to houses.

Be aware of the price of 200mm cavity ties, they’re eye watering…

Ask the Architext who is familiar with your local authority requirements it’s one way to ensure a compliant design

Hi @Sophiae As your title indicates the drawings require the detailed information to show that the work will be carried out in accordance with the building regulations. To understand what to write one would need to know the regulations. If this is not your field of knowledge I would suggest saving the money up rather than spending a lot longer working it all out. However, if you would like to see the regulations: https://www.gov.uk/guidance/building-regulations-and-approved-documents-index Good luck. M

Not for the Radon. Only if you have other good reasons to do so - for example as part of a package of comprehensive insulation measures or to install underfloor central heating. But even then replacing the floor is one of the last things to consider.

I did think you can get padlock type covers for tap outlets . Failing that stick a locked box over it ( serious suggestion btw )

Apologies for the rude statement, i would like to edit this to state that this is my experience with SOME plumbers, and it is clear based on this forum alone that there is a huge difference in how some wish to operate! I have no doubt there will be plenty of plumbers who would be happy to work of a design and also provide input free of charge, like several on here who have given their time and knowledge for no financial gain, but they are just tough to find in my area! I will endeavor to keep hunting!!

I would be happy to work to a design knowing I’m not responsible for that part, all I have to worry about is my workmanship. find new trades that think differently

Plumbers have very sensitive ego's, they seem to struggle to do what the customer asks, let alone take some other mans seconds...

I think you could find someone in the UK to design the system and then just hire in the trades.

I feel your pain @Jimbo37, based in Donegal and finding it very difficult to get anyone to "design"! I think we have had maybe 1 reputable installer so far ask for heat loss, and i asked a couple of others if they would not need to know heat loss, one answer was that he uses 40W/m2 for new builds. Thats at 25 deg temp difference, and maybe is not terrible, but my calcs for 25 deg is 15.9W/m2, so would be some what overkill to install a heat pump to hit 40! One of the main challenges I have found, as others have also stated, is getting a machine as someone not in the trade. A couple of plumbing supply stores will sell me a machine, told me they wont give me the same price as the plumber (odd) but that it will be sold as seen, zero warranty. I have had a little more luck with commercial refrigeration companies, e.g. a company based in Donegal told me that they will sell me a Daikin unit, and if I have their engineers commission and do an annual service then they can provide the full 7 year warranty. There is options out there, just a PIA to find! I am trying to work with some local plumbers and take an active role in design to see can I find a happy medium, but may end up a DIY job yet

You can. Above = bombproof 😎👍

so I finished the internal 110mm soil pipes (mostly anyway, still go the en-suite above the garage to do). here's the 3rd run. starting in an en-suite down to the downstairs WC in to the basement where the rest bend takes it on the horizontal and I have a rodding point across a hallway to join up with the other 2 runs and out the basement wall all look ok?

thank you. ☺️ although sometimes it doesn't feel that way! consider it done.....well....on Sunday that is as tomorrow is a day off for me.

copper will bend as well you know. I don't like using fittings where not needed. My record in our first house was 9 bends in one length of pipe to go round an alcove. It was a little challenging getting the bent pipe out of the bender and then wiggling it into place. Shame I did not photograph it at the time.

I designed a manifold system and used plastic pipe, never done it before but it worked out ok.