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They leak air not water, your topic is ventilation, not water leaks. They will be water tight. The T&G, the joints between panel all leak air.

OH NO! I'm doomed then. Mine goes on and off 50 times a second! WTF are they on about?

customer supplying all the stuff usually translates into customer is buying the cheapest tat they can find.

What do the heat loss calculations actually say your heat input requirement is? If the (much less than) 70W heat loss from the cylinder is going to overheat your house, then you better not let any people into the house (300W per person) and most certainly don't let them do any cooking.

Not sure of the regs but I would strongly recommend separate drainage for each house. Nobody wants to deal with someone else’s blockage! ASHP condensate piped to a small soak-away so it doesn’t puddle.

As an example, a lot of my mains dimming channels I put through a custom function to map 1%-100% brightness output from the lighting controller to 30%-100% brightness at the DMX channel, or whatever the strike value is that causes it to come on, but keeping 0 passed though as 0 so that off really is off on the dimmer.

As an approximation, yes this is correct. The PWM at 50% means it spends 50% of its time turned off so the energy used per second is halved. Yes many ways to do this. Assuming the kids don't have access Loxone Config to reprogram everything in the house, you can easily put a limit, or an output scaling factor on each output channel.

I didn’t put any vents in and last winter the shed was constantly damp with condensation. I put two vents each side, high and low level, dried out by the next day.

That might help them hold out if it really is only for a few months. It's amazing how difficult it is to get an effective seal as repeated heating and cooling makes the air expand and contract which pumps it out and in, along with whatever moisture is in the outside air.

I would dry the books out in the house and then put them in thick plastic sealed boxes to store in the shed because as you've noticed, the ones in cardboard will get damp and mouldy. However, Radian thinks that won't work.

Found some more, even cheaper: https://www.orionairsales.co.uk/lg-air-conditioning-premtb100-standard-iii-hard-wired-remote-controller-in-white-9843-p.asp https://aircon-online.co.uk/product/standard-iii-wired-remote-controller/

Yeah slip membrane is deffo needed, for the reason you mentioned. taping joints not essential but costs peanuts and takes minutes so why not ?

Got those following I think we found the cause! Today I found this! Looks like it used to have something right where that floorboard is. Old houses are fascinating.

I was reading about WiFi7 the other day. https://www.howtogeek.com/782023/what-is-wi-fi-7/ (not the most technical of articles, but you get the idea) So why bother with terrestrial broadcasts? Seems the technology is already here to make better use of broad band in the home. There are a number of projects make use of cheap hardware to stream TV. There is also Radio, very cheap and the pictures are better.

Yes! So only caveat with the mains dimmers is the lights on them flicker quite noticeably when the house is being powered from the house battery. (new development as we only recently got the battery). This is with: Phos lights& mains dimmable driver <- whitwig 16ch mains dimmer (early prototype version!) <- Solar Edge So the blame may not be all with the dimmers. I need to do some more experiments. But, dies make me wish I had central constant current drivers that I could run straight from a nice pure DC battery....

Just goes to show how useful proper energy monitoring and basic analysis can be. And it only cost a few quid.

yeah, I've already got one of those too. can't wait for the day that I can get all of this wired up and we have a finished house to use them all in!

I have one of Mike's 16 channel DMX dimmers. Great quality at a decent price, and as you say, supporting someone local.

OB1 should do the job. Can’t quite get my head around what you are wanting to do but OB1 is a go-to adhesive

Yes, most of the time a loft, even an uninsulated one, gets quite warm. Also helps the ventilation: a warm roof is, but definition, really just another room.

@joe90 Like placing an extract vent (like bathroom & kitchen) to capture the warmer air?

I can answer that, having been imprisoned in @joe90's attic. No. You may have noticed that his loft is a warm roof, and I think he sucks some of the warmth out of it, as well as the rooms.

You can get them in larger formats, I used these 24ch ones: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002995692320.html They were £1.30 per channel when I bought them! Now about £2.20 That page is light on details, the old seller that I bought from had more info: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32837953011.html Again the terminals are grouped in quads of "+RGB" with 3 DMX channels per four terminals. I just ignore the + terminals and treat RGB as 3 arbitrary DMX channels - some drive white LEDs, some drive RGBW, some drive SSRs etc. You can select 500Hz or 2kHz. using 2kHz derates the power rating slightly. I'm even using one channel to speed control a PWM controlled extractor fan for the AV cupboard, that one had to be 2kHz as that's what the fan required. EDIT to add - at half the price per terminal, and higher frequency, I'd be tempted to go with the AliExpress ones; they work very well for me, and also mostly because screw terminals seem preferable to IDC crimp connections! That said, Mike's gear is excellent, great to support a local company, and the price is totally reasonable. You should do fine with either.

Not sure either, though I think the last two versions were just tidying up, nothing fundamentally different.

You may remember back in August my husband a brilliant idea of how to use my big non-induction pan on our induction hob. Our new, very expensive Bora hob! It worked really, really well … until it didn’t, and the pan which was the conductor overheated and bowed 😩 This caused the disc on the bottom to protrude, and as I was stirring the mahoosive pan full of whatever it was I was batch cooking, the conductor pan turned and made circular scratches in the black ceramic glass. The other day I got a quote to replace the glass as I was so upset about how it looked, but when I talked to the engineer he said he would try buffing the scratches out first with Barkeepers Friend. As I happened to have some I gave it a go. Would you believe it, it worked really well! Not all the scratches are gone, but I’ll keep at it gently buffing and try to remove all the scratches. Saved us over £921.60!!! Top photo was the damage. Below photo is after first attempt to buff out the scratches. In time it may well be like new again 🤞🏻

Getting there! Compacted the base, put in a few inches of sand and levelled it, DPC down, 75mm Insulation down and taped the joints and the concrete lorry is arriving in the morning! 😅

With some beams, once the blocks are in you only get 50mm left, but that should still be plenty.

I just ran ducts for the hot water pipes in the raft. This was standard 50mm twin walled ducting. https://www.builderdepot.co.uk/cable-ducting-twin-wall-black-per-metre-50mm The ducts ran under the rebar mesh. The plastic mesh supports were 50mm high.

Or Normal for Norfolk.