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Anyone habitually starting and binning companies every so often is dodging/hiding something whether its paying tax, avoiding warranty calls, inability to run a business, scamming suppliers or customers etc etc. No matter how knowledgeable they are, would you want them doing that to you or part way through your job?? If they take credit cards, pay the deposit on a card so at least youve got section 75 cover

Thanks @nod but are you saying you wouldn’t even consider the products that can be applied onto the grout to change their colour? I’m also pissed off with Mapei for not making it clear on their instructions that hard water could cause this whitening of the grout.

There are benefits with two. Routing pipes and also the runs are shorter, so less pressure drop, lower running speed and less noise. Only part of house in boost instead of whole house, because you have a shower. Ours are split as, two spare bedrooms, one ensuite and our ensuite. We shower in our ensuite daily, so only the small system gets boosted. The rest of the house rarely in boost. Downside is two sets of filters.

We have an 8.5 kW array with Enphase micro inverters, and managed over 50 kWh yesterday. Looks like about the third best day this year for us (best was 52.2 kWh on 14 June). Much better than the same date last year (the line on the same graph).

There are at least 4 ways of wiring 2 way switching, use whichever you prefer. But I would always loop a feed through a switch, even if not actually used. I never use 1.5mm no point it's too large for some fittings if you have to get more than one wire in.

They came as a recommendation from the architect. Compliant to building regs (as I've been told) and within 7-10% of the PH spec without going all the way - and incurring the extra expense.

I would look elsewhere There add lots of companies out there Large and small with great track record

yep. it certainly is. I've had my PV panels on the roof since late last year. I still don't have an electricity meter or the consumer unit installed so don't have the inverter connected up yet. so I've basically wasted 8 months of potential SEG payments. and on a 10.5kWp array that could've been quite a bit. but these things happen and life's too short to beat yourself up about it.

Not a specific recommendation, but as another datapoint the Ecodan supports this out of the box in the standard controller too. Search the FTC6 install manual for "boiler" for schematics and setup instructions (Dip switch SW 1-1, inputs IN4 & IN5, output OUT10, thermistors THWB1 THW10) https://library.mitsubishielectric.co.uk/pdf/book/Ecodan_FTC6_PAC-IF071-3B-E_Installation_Manual_BH79D843H03

In a couple of months when the sun has stopped shining maybe other 'not so potentially dodgy' PV companies might not be as busy and then you'll get one of them and know you've made the right choice! FOMO is a killer and is really hard not to give in to it but you have to try hard. something better is often just around the corner. 😉

So installed badly in the first place. PV is so reliable that it is only in an extreme case that you would need to go back. (Once had the electrician fit the wrong inverter, picked up the wrong box)

By charging extra a company is, to a certain extent, selecting customers who are better able to pay. They may also take more care. Check that they take credit cards, if not, avoid.

I have lost the plot about what is going on here.

Thanks @alig that's a good suggestion. However on closer inspection it turns out I dont have a problem after all ... the plastic twist handle actually comes off so essentially is the "key". Photos make it clear I think...

Not sure I would trust, we had a company doing work for us, it went insolvent, we had paid them loads, they paid none of their suppliers, started up a new company in his wife name. Lucky for us the job was finished before the insolvency occurred.

If they give you very good payment terms - EG 20% upfront, you pay for the materials and the delivery is to your site, you only pay for the install once it is signed off it might be worth a punt.

When you chop the roof hook dont have it resting on the tile but a few mm clear of the tile. The hook transfers the weight of the array plus wind/snow load through to the rafters. If the hook rests on the tile or can flex onto it, all the load goes through the tile with a fair chance the tile will break.

I’ve just bought a box of Senco 65 mil ring 3200 + 3 gas £38 + vat

Timber frame is good suggestion. I have seen a lot of bungalow to house conversions done this way. Standard factory made ones tend to use 140mm x 38mm cls studwork for external walls, with 9mm OSB sheathing and 89mm x 38mm for internal.

Daikin do a hybrid solution. They do two versions, a split and mono block. You need the mono block version. Basically you can have their solution of ASHP and gas boiler, or their ASHP and any other boiler. The heat pump does heating only. You boiler does hot water and or heating. Think Vaillant and others also do a similar solution. The heating system will run in bivalent mode, for heating which is either or not both together.

Just get decent ones, zinc galv or stainless. Timco or Fisher do boxes at decent prices. Even the sheradised ones, which are not as good, I found, having sat in a damp garage for over 10 years, I noticed had no disenable corrosion on them. I cannot imagine you will have any by way of exposed framing nails. I never had an issue with SS nails, they work just the same in my gun.

Gypsum backer board outperforms most boards for shower rooms and is much easier to work with than cement board As a tiler I would use standard moister plasterboard in all wet areas Even wet rooms that are being tanked If water penetrates the tanking membrane It really doesn’t matter what is under there

Whatever the 'out' level is controls the level of the standing 'liquid'. Also we want the 'in' pipe to decant all its contents and not have anything left in it. So out should be 100mm or more lower than in. Whenever some liquid enters the tank, the same amount must leave, preferably cleaner, hence it needs some barrier to the stuff going straight through.

Oh thank you so much ... I was beginning to think it wasn't going to be possible. I'll give them a call tomorrow then and see what they say Thanks x

Ok thanks. I filed a complaint with the supplier/installer. Not heard back from them despite it being several days and despite their engineer scratching his head when he failed to get it registered on commissioning. Really pleased I spent an extra £££ for the wifi functionality, not!

+1 Which means he admits it is used pretty regularly at the moment. If you keep the happy I'm sure other neighbours would write you a letter explaining their knowledge of how it's been used if you needed it.

I think their solicitor might be conflating two completely separate things: (i) a right of way over his property to be able to wheel machinery and building materials to your property; and (ii) nuissance from your building works. Issue (i) comes to establishing that you have a right of way over his land. That will depend partly on deeds/paperwork but also on whether you can evidence that others, particularly you and the previous owners of your property, have exercised a right of way over the land in question for a sufficiently long time such that the right of way arises by prescription. I believe that period of time is 20 years, and owners can change during that period as long as there is more or less continued use of the right of way. Here is an explanation from my favourite law firm name: https://www.wrighthassall.co.uk/knowledge-base/claiming-a-right-of-way-by-prescription#:~:text=What do you need to,in use are relatively short. If the right of way is meant to be enjoyed by the whole street, then other's evidence will be relevant. Obviously if there are access gates between gardens or even just gaps in the fences, that in and of itself is useful evidence. Issue (ii) doesn't currently stand up. Nuissance in the building context can only really mean two things: noise and dust. As for noise, this is policed by the local council. Check what their rules are, usually noise is permitted from around 8am to 530pm Monday to Friday and some councils also allow noise on Saturdays for a limited number of hours. So just set out in writing what the local council's rules are and confirm that you will abide by them and no noisy work will be done outside of those hours. As long as you do that and as long as you stick to those times there is F all he can do about it and no court will grant an injunction on that basis. As for dust, as long as you take reasonable precautions (e.g. wetting very messy stuff before cutting it (like tiles) there isn't much he can do. You are not currently causing a nuissance or threatening to do so, so again no injunction would be granted. Issue (i) is the more difficult one to prove.

Thanks for that useful suggestion, kind of hard when you have a physical dirty job and a 3yo that likes to get dirty

They are correct. the VAT refund scheme is only for where YOU have purchased materials and paid VAT for those materials which are incorporated into your build. If a builder supplies and fits materials in a new build THEY should zero rate their invoice for both materials and labour. If they have incorrectly charged you VAT, you must go back to them to reclaim the incorrectly charged VAT

Come on guys, everyone deserves a lunch break! I wouldn’t want to work for some of you, standing over the shoulder ensuring you start at 8am. what about when they are thinking about your job at night, ordering material, picking up before you get on site. too many spreadsheet warriors!

@Visti has a Brink model I believe. I heard he was happy with it. Remember that the Brink units are also branded as Ubiflux Vigor too.

If they’re building that 330mm substructure wall on your other thread then they’d be mad to not want it on price!!