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Update New quote is £5600 for 100amp connection and that also includes the cost of upgrading the transformer. So all good. Onto sorting out the borehole now.

Quite simply there isn't a gas main within a mile of my entrance. (Feel like I am marking my old RE students homework. It is much easier seeing others typos than one owns)

T&G softwood could look nearly the same stain to a variety of shades before fixing it does look great but overspecified for wood that will never see any weather

Could put the insulation on the outside of the duct if you can be sure it won't flood and float. How about filling part of that void with 500-750mm mm gravel so it's effectively buried.

buy or hire a laser , will take 10 mins.

Use 110mm underground drainage with a rest bend and bring it up through the floor. If it ever needs to be replaced then it’s dead simple.

Any geo membrane will be fine, and nothing wrong with digging in a few hundred mill. sectional garages do not put much load down and certainly to point loads so the base doesn’t have to be anything serious. We have free stood them on bare soil as temporary stores and they didn’t sink much at all.

Here is an offer you can’t refuse. Drill a hole in each bit either 20 or 40mm deep, collect the dust, seal it in a plastic bag, label each one seal them again in another bag. Send in the post or deliver to me. I will weigh the sample, dry it in my oven, re-weigh it and calculate the moisture content. what are you measuring with?

Looks like Weinerberger Profile Dry ridge - you still need the membrane lapped up and over the ridge.

only over a certain volume which is massively less than a normal house uses.

bed is irrelevant, they lay them to a string line set with a fall. If your paver doesn't know how to lay to a string line get another one.

Spoke to my solicitor yesterday and my understanding of the LBTT/ADS situation is right. So buy plot of land nothing to pay. Sell current house and buy another house in Scotland (and we may have found the perfect house less than a mile from the plot) no ADS there either subject to timing the buying and selling and you can claim it back anyway. Buying somewhere to live takes all the pressure off doing anything with plot too and maybe we can ride out the current supply chain and trades availability problems as that seems like a World of stress right now. Also allows me to figure out what I am going to do workwise as I quit my stressful job too! ?

As above, word of mouth is the only believable information, I would never trust check a trader etc.

You can/do get charged for taking water from rivers and for sewage if you discharge into a sewer or water course as these are managed. pretty sure you should have a license to take water out of a borehole tho.

No because they are not supplying a service … I.e the water is not being treated or pumped by anyone

Gave the pillar caps a coat of Bulls Eye 1-2-3. Masked off as best as. Hoping that none has leached through onto the brickwork. Really hoping the neighbours don't think I read the Daily Star or whatever rag it is I used to mask: Black paint next. Also made a sheet metal folder o/of scrap, a couple of Range Rover valve springs etc so I could redo the stainless shroud for the IP video intercom.

Plain (ungrooved) decking boards? Light grey (white is never white) painted rough cut softwood? It's purely decorative and hanging off the underside of OSB, so you can use pretty much anything, no?

On my house I used cedar for fascias and barge boards, soffits just softwood par, ten years on untreated unpainted no problems http://tonyshouse.readinguk.org/external-woodwork-ten-years-on/ why pay more?

Hello newby2. No it's understandable that you may have a touch of the "jitters" at first. The main thing is to do a bit of research before you jump to any conclusion. All buildings move about as they are "elastic structures".. they bend, shrink, foundations settle / move about and so on and this manifests often as cracks. This crops up very often when folk are in dispute with say a warrantly provider on a new house. One of my go to references is BRE Digest 251 Assessment of damage in low rise buildings. It's an older document but it's a great guide on cracks in houses. It's 8 pages long and written in plain English. You can buy it for £15.00 from the BRE bookshop, apparently it is also "google able"... For all.. this is a great document to have a read of, whether you are building a new house, extending or just curious. Have a read at this newby2 and it may fill in the missing piece of the jigsaw.

just to let you know we had lantern removed roof redone and new lantern fitted correctly company called thermal roof did the rubber as you will see from the first pics to the ones now the difference

The cedar was eye wateringly expensive, and the oil also, add the two together and it’s getting up with the price of those aluminium panels.

Could you insulate between the floor and bottom of the cabinet? E.g 50mm of polystyrene?

Assuming your UFH is running at 25 degrees then it won’t get any higher, electric heating mats are a different matter because any covering leads to hot spots. wet UFH limits the floor temp to temp of water running through it. 25 degrees is nothing for electrics

Looks like you got the local cowboy. Statt by getting a competent roofer to write a quick report on the bodge that has been done to show the first joker when you refuse to pay his bill.

If it's not too late I'd go for your option 2, both loops to outside, as that is where the heat is lost. Better still is to run the pipework parallel to the windows and starting with flows to outside or at least flow to the window first, as this is likely to be the highest heat loss area of the room. Hope my recomendations is not too late for you to install in this way.

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I think you need to get it tested.

Initial quote from DNO was around £10k. Called their quote person and had a chat to understand what options might be possible. Then wrote to them saying we were interested in whatever we could get by jointing into the cable(s) at/near the front of our property. Minimising or avoiding the digging up of public footpath, because that seemed to drive costs way up. Eventually quote came down to around £3k including about £1k for jointing on to a relatively new cable that was put in to supply neighbours. We took it. 3 phase too. In our case the softly softly approach worked. But if victory is relatively certain then challenging their quote might work as well or better.

Some pretty good overview of the range here https://evanmccann.net/blog/unifi-routers-overview They have an increasingly complex overlapping product line.

I've a velux and keylight in my house but researched Fakro at the time. I've also had various CPD's by all these companies. I've installed them all at various times in different projects I've worked on but only once installed the conservation version so don't know as much about these. All the knowledge is about 18 months old so newer stuff may exist or have changed. What I've found in summary: For the electrics velux have their own control panel. This actually has a benefit in that the the Velux technical department can answer questions and help. Keylight just use a control panel by an outside manufacture. I've never used Fakro electric rooflights that I can think of (maybe a standalone AOV). On one university project I installed 20 odd Keylight rooflights and had loads of problems connecting these back to the BMS. They got it to work in the end but it was difficult. Velux have a 5 layers of glass Passive House version but that needs it's own separate mortgage and only comes in one or limited sizes. The Velux and Keylight triple glazed are very similar however you can get a sound reducing glazing for Velux. This adds cost but also improves the u-value beyond what Keylight can achieve and what I went for in my own house. The electric Keylight roof windows are cheaper than the electric Velux rooflights which is why I've an electric Keylight. The thermo foam perimeter strip on Keylight rooflights is a bit of a gimmick and marketing pitch. A squirt of expanding foam finished with airtight tape is better in practice. In tripple glazed they're all heavy. The Keylight Flick-fit brackets help but it's still a two person job on the larger ones. In generally Fakro are more expensive (based in Ireland, not sure if this is the same in the UK). Not relevant but Fakro make excellent loft ladders. In short the differences are minor and I don't think you'll go far wrong with any of them.

You've beaten us to having walls and a roof, albeit on a workshop ?

Shopping trollies, cycles and beer bottles.