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I would say the plumbing is pretty much the same as plumbing a system boiler, so any plumber should be able to do that. Electrical wise, the controls can be a little more complex than a boiler and it varies a great deal from one make to the next. What you need is a competent electrician that is familliar with heating systems and is prepared to read and digest what it says in the installation manual. You may have an issue if not installed by a heat pump specialist that you may only get 1 year warranty, and any extended warranty offered may be conditional on using a particular installer.

RHI is NOT compulsory, indeed some of us are a but cynical that the install prices are hiked so the only person that benefits is the installer. It is the worst case heat loss you need to know. If yours is really about 5kW then bear in mind you will need an ASHP larger than that as otherwise it would need to run 24/7 just to keep up with the heat demand leaving no time for hot water or no off time.

It'll be tomorrow now but I'll drop you a pm

They do - it’s called the Tariff Information Label The problem is the rate you pay is based on your region and your MPAN identifier (first two numbers, mine is 11) alters the standing charges and the generator premiums depending on the fees available.

I find the whole tariff thing so frustrating and "hidden" Most suppliers do not just publish their cost per kWh you have to "get a quote" to find that out. and the comparison sites are not much better. I wish someone ould just publish a table of all the different suppliers, simply stating for each, Import cost per kWh, Export payment per kWh (if any) and dailiy standing charge. That is ALL anyone needs to know to choose the best for them.

don't worry. I was going for a Powerwall before I even knew who you were. The ability to use the solar generated during the day at night just makes sense to me to reduce my reliance on the grid.

in about 1 yr when my build is well under way and I'm looking at new electricity suppliers I will be tapping you up for your knowledge on the good Tesla tariffs.

4kw

Battery full Car charged Supporting you lot now ! ?

There is nothing wrong with the heater!! Don’t touch it. The issue is the heat is taking the easiest path of convention, which is NOT through the tank. You need to disassemble the plumbing and check the T and the connection to the cylinder aren’t blocked before doing anything more. This diagram doesn’t show a boiler feed T’d into the Willis flow / boiler return. Do you have some pics of this arrangement? Has this ever worked? If so, it could just be an airlock in the Willis heater pipework. Or a gate valve that hasn’t been reopened ( or has been manually turned open but the guts of the gate valve sometimes stay stuck in the closed position ).

I don’t like the sole plate or the thermal bridging it brings. I have had this before and suggested that condensation may happen on top of the dpc, not good . I would analyse the thermals and do something to mitigate before building

so this is bridging between two internal spaces - of you line them with PIR and they fill with ice or snow they don’t create cold points and potential condensation issues internally. It doesn’t cost much but can make it much better than just a flat timber gutter that can be a nightmare to insulate from the inside due to rafter ends etc.

Steel portal frame I expect.

It’s only suitable for precision blocks that are not really used in the U.K. (think very accurate aircrete blocks), isn’t rated for “safety situations” and is only B2 rated so is not fire proof. Also it was designed for installing insulation panels, so load bearing properties will be interesting. This is from the MSDS SOUDABOND EASY GUN must not be used for components requiring approval, e.g. supporting walls and walls relevant for safety!

Hello everyone. I am new to this site. I am currently planning a kitchen extension. I joined the forum as I have some technical issues with the design of the new build and hopefully I can get some advice from other forum users.

Good morning and welcome. I am a fan of GRP and it would be my method of choice, as said many times before here it has to be very dry to do the GRP work, not sure if you have done any before?. If not there are many u tube vids to show you how. I have done a fair bit of GRP flat roofs, box gutters etc .

Just make sure the DPM and all DPCs are continuous. Difficult to do if the (internal wall) DPC is at slab level.

Past a certain point, it's questionable whether you'll notice the difference. A problem every 20 years in a domestic setting is really good performance and really not worth paying extra to fix. The same level of reliability in a high-end hotel would mean failures every few weeks which would be utterly unacceptable.

Yes. I'd move it below the slab

I always built insulated floors with the membrane on top of the insulation, warm side, acts as a combined dpm/vb then - never had a problem except with occasional building inspector

Not necessarily. Depends if you are an area where radon protection is required which I’m sure your architect has checked out. You may wish to check out the Accredited Construction Details. Looking at the detail - it looks fine. As other posters have pointed out the DPM can either go above or below the slab (below if there is a risk of the hardcore being contaminated) as long as the DPM is overlapped and continuous with all wall DPCs. Having said that I would normally expect to see a DPM above the slab/below the floor insulation overlapped and continuous with all wall DPCs, perimeter insulation and a VCL above the floor insulation. PS - Have faith in your architect. If in doubt ask him/her and raise your concerns. You are after all the client and paying fees.

there's an adjustable stat under the cover.

Gas the easiest to deal with Leccy ok Water the worst.

https://www.google.com/search?sa=N&biw=1920&bih=966&source=univ&tbm=isch&q=oak+wood+floor+reducing+strip

Flatting off is only one part though. Then set the surface and polish it up - that’s the bit that takes skill.

Your estimates are way off. A good ground worker in a 15t machine and a stream of tippers will have that done in a few days. Also try and keep as much as possible on site for future backfilling and landscaping. It's absolutely critical to do your homework and find a home for your excavation risings. We got a place that charged £120 to collect a 16t load, and £50 charge for our lorry to dump. All in, moving 750t of soil cost just under £10k. If we'd gone for the first place that was over £200 a load, that £10k would have been over £16k.

375 cubic metres is about 550 tonnes so 17 tonne lorries at £200 a lorry would be 45 bulked up. That’s your £10k or so. JCB and driver for a week is £1200 round here, can load a wagon every 30 mins so 12/day from day 2 onward. Even if you got a 13 tonner to do the excavation as it’s hard ground, that would be £1700 with driver and delivery. All done in a week max, change of £13k.

Welcome, Sounds very different and interesting, looking forward to plans and pictures .

Welcome. That sounds exciting. Best of luck. If you get some time, post your plans up.

There has been a flurry of posts on here about older houses. Stop, and get educated on it first. Insulated plaster board, celotex etc. No, no no. Not in an 1800;s house. Seriously, peruse, at length, these 4 sites before you do work you later find needs ripping out. One word. Breathability. https://www.heritage-house.org/ https://www.mikewye.co.uk/ https://www.lime.org.uk/ https://www.periodproperty.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=1

Good going for a double glazing salesman ?

Not sure but he will knacker your nice new sils and walk on your freshly laid slates ?

Thanks Joe 90, i know who to call (i am sure joe 90 was 10 ish?)wheni have an issue!

“ and even “ ! Wtf that meant to mean ?

Go for the goodwill route if at all possible