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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/27/20 in all areas

  1. I'm running the terma MOA elements (cheapest when bought from screwfix) these have built in thermostat and can be adjusted from inside the room as the controls are on the element. Also has a 2hr button if you just want to turn them on occasionally. I have mine wired via a timer and even though they are an electronic unit they remember the previous heat setting so next time they come on its the same as last time. Pretty good for the extra £25 or so. Mine are 'duel fuel' with a Tee piece on the CH, but don't need to be.
    3 points
  2. All clean ! So the women on this board stop whining ?
    3 points
  3. Water, inhibitor and leave some room for expansion isn't it?
    2 points
  4. Hey, So an update after the first storm here since the last leak. After 7 constant hours of 50mph winds and rain there is no new water staining on the ceiling so I thought that it was all good until I used an inspection camera to look in the roof space and noticed a small about of water (probably 10 drips worth) The sealant seems to have drastically reduced the leak but not eliminated it totally. Summer is going to be very busy with alterations!
    2 points
  5. For future members who may be looking to purchase Intello Pro Clima membrane, Tescon Vana airtight tape etc, cheapest place I managed to find is a company in Germany. A search for Latzel Dammstoffe should find them. My order was with me within a couple of days, very keen pricing when compared to UK companies.
    1 point
  6. We did it! Today we received a completion certificate for our new house - our home! It took us 61 weeks from breaking ground - and these included a very wet winter seasons, a change of builders mid-project, difficult neighbours, sacking the PM, a lockdown, tons of remedial works, and another lockdown! What a journey - feels surreal! Could not have done it without you lot here - love this forum totally Before and after pics are below
    1 point
  7. It's been a while since our last update but just to let everyone know we may be in for Xmas. We still need the EWI and render but inside should be liveable and we can get out of the caravan. The kitchen is almost complete now after getting damaged units all replaced and given it was ex display I think it looks lovely. The part with the hob on could possibly have been a bit longer but I didn't want a breakfast bar and by time we have our table, chairs and small sofa I think it will look good. At the moment it's like a big dancefloor! And although the majority of the house doesn't have light fittings because frankly we are skint, we did manage to get the kitchen/dining room sorted and I love the light in there which we got from a small lighting place I convinced the other half to drive a couple of hours for. If I would have hated it she would have killed me. We got the whole house sprayed white by a local decorator because I didn't want to look at plaster for 12 months and I didn't fancy doing the pitched ceilings in the kitchen and with a bad neck injury. For our bungalow which is around 190m2 it was a few hundred pounds Inc all materials, paint, masking prior to second fix. It would have taken weeks to do it and the spray finish is brilliant (although has a few marks on it from second fix now). No woodwork has been done because it wasn't in place and frankly we can't afford it and once we decide on colours etc we can get doors, skirting done later on when we have calmed down and gradually work through each room. We have already decided we want the kitchen orange eventually and our yellow living room sofa is due to arrive too just before Xmas so it will definitely have injection of colour. The bathrooms are almost completed now after the showerwall saga, on the third replacement it now looks decent. We went for LVT throughout and the UFH is working well in that it's warmer than the caravan......
    1 point
  8. @joe90 Thank you for clearing up the meaning of Steamy Tea’s comment! And thank you very much for your feedback about the issue with our leaking flue. Fingers crossed we will be able to get it sorted with the advice from this forum.
    1 point
  9. My towel radiators came with water/inhibitor already in them, turn upside down, remove blank and insert element if your choice. Beware, without thermostats mine got dangerously hot (scalding even), I swapped them for lower power ones after a while.
    1 point
  10. = yes tiles will need moving tiles yes but roof structure no. (I don’t like Sherry ?).
    1 point
  11. Bladders last longer with cold water - don’t get as much degradation of the EDPM as you would with water at 55-70°C.
    1 point
  12. Yup but they have to have a vertical column for the heating element to go into. Horizontal ones don’t work as well.
    1 point
  13. Yes - use 1” stainless self tappers.
    1 point
  14. That is exactly what is in mine. IIRC the instructions say turn on and when it's warm fit the top plug to allow for expansion. Mine are all Geyser. https://www.geyser.co.uk/heated-towel-rails
    1 point
  15. 200mm is fine - can go to 150mm if you want to. Just may end up with a shorter fascia.
    1 point
  16. Depends...! Some are oil filled but they just use cheap silicone oil. You can use that but my weapon of choice is car antifreeze - the pink one - as it’s ridiculously cheap in Home Bargains and works as an inhibitor too. Just stick the elements in, use the breather plug in the top and then buy a pack of rad plugs for the other holes.
    1 point
  17. You need at least 300mm of vertical pipe above the tundish to have the water come out ‘straight’ eg without ‘turbulence’, which is usually the main cause of water splashing out / over the tundish. Don’t forget to ream the pipe internally to remove the cup end, formed by rotary pipe cutters. Even though you can get away with the factory supplied 15mm in > 22mm out jobby I alswsus upgrade to a 22mm in > 22 or 28mm out to alleviate any such issues
    1 point
  18. Testies of steel ! Grouted floor
    1 point
  19. @pocster you missed a bit by the door ?
    1 point
  20. If water is regularly coming out of the tundish, you have a problem. The "solution" is not to change the tundish, but find and fix the problem. Most likely related to the EV.
    1 point
  21. You pump bentonite powder and cement mix into the hole and that buys you enough time to create a cap from concrete. A steel plate might be needed if there is a lot of pressure. We hit an artesian well in an underground car park in Belfast and it flooded the bottom floor. Lucky enough No cars where parked there. Took a lot of bentonite powder and cement to reduce the flow enough to get it capped. But this borehole was approx 6m below ground level so there was a lot of pressure to hold back.
    1 point
  22. @patp Get everyone involved, including the borehole owner, to check their insurance policies. That may be a lower cost option than unilaterally starting a claim. Civil law is expensive for all concerned, so even the insurance people may prefer that option.
    1 point
  23. If your not sure at the moment, bang some conduit in with a bit of cord to pull wires though later. Allows you to add more cable later if things change.
    1 point
  24. 2 years on and I’ve eventually ordered the bits to move the EV. This was only because water was splashing out of the tundish (cheap small one fitted) and dripping into the room below... possibly due to me not having the annual inspection and the EV has lost pressure ?
    1 point
  25. Hello patp. It's a pity that you had to post about a concern you have. However as you will know it's "grist to the mill" on Build Hub and I think will attract some good responses. What you describe is almost like some exam problem! Sounds like you may have what is called a " confined" or "artesian aquifer" effect where the water is rising out of the ground without any mechanical assistance... like a spring on a hillside.. Your post contains a lot of information! If this is the case (Artesian effect) then I would take this a step at a time. It may be that the "offending" bore hole is actually saving the day and mitigating the potential flooding effects that could occur as a result of over development? It's worth considering that a borehole can be quite a small aperture compared with natural fissures in the ground.. maybe the developer is defecting the blame here. The EA are not daft contrary to popular belief. They will be reluctant to get involved at this stage unless there is a risk of contamination of the water courses... and unless flooding has occured then the risk that is percieved has not been realised so it won't flag up too much as they have much more ongoing serious issues to deal with. If you wish can you make two sketches. One would be a plan view.. try and show the ground levels ditches etc, if you can, draw a cross section... here what you need to convey is how your house sits with respect to the orther houses and the "problem" bore hole. If you can bear to, then post your location.. down to the street you live in.. Some posters will have a quick look at the geological maps. Better still if you have any SI information post that. All the best.
    1 point
  26. We have moved into the big white cheese wedge. The ASHP is in the bottom L/H corner and is working a treat. Temp inside at the mo 18 @Gav_P. Many, many thanks to all the people who have helped me over the last three years. Merry xmas to everybody on Buildhub. Pete
    1 point
  27. Over the last four years or so, we have had our fair share of ups and downs. But this is an up. And now, GCNs are very welcome. From a twinkle in our eyes in the little local-stone built cottage (to the left of the photo) to a contemporary orange (coloured) box... which will be silvery grey in a while. Like my receding hair. Lots more to do, but hey! SWMBO reminds me we started when POTUS was being sworn-in , and just moved in by the time he had been sworn at long enough to be kicked out. Is there a lesson there? Probably not.?
    1 point
  28. A story with a happy ending. Vision AGI were receptive to paying for our third party costs and have paid up. Plasterer in Friday to cover the hole and then we paint. Good as new. Thanks everyone for the support and the words for the email. Phew.
    1 point
  29. Don’t forget to do your annual inspection and get the benchmark book stamped to keep your warranty in check
    1 point
  30. Have you been on the sherry @joe90 if you reduce the soffit size then surely the length of the roof from ridge to facia will decrease, so the facia gets taller, but the roof gets shorter. But knowing @Onoff maybe he’s thinking of installing a flux capacitor in the void or something.
    0 points
  31. Based on the title ; I suffer that occasionally
    0 points
  32. That appears to have gone backwards? You had a side frame up at one point. ? Havent you got a 3D model in Catia ? Surely that’s the first step.
    0 points
  33. Coming along: (You haven't been here long have you? ?)
    0 points
  34. Does it get all types of stains off?
    0 points
  35. 0 points
  36. A couple of bags of bentonite threw down it when they go shopping will do the trick.
    0 points
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