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Here is another question you may not have thought about. Strongbacks. Generally any posi joist system over 4M span will have a strong back threaded through all the joists, think of it as the posi joist equivalent of noggins. How do you slot it in? With our timber frame, it was slotted in before the ring beam was installed. But you have solid walls. So you are probably going to temporarily have to stack all the joists tight together at one side of the building, slot the strongbacks in, then spread the joists out. Sorry to give you one more issue to address.

I really hope the manufacturer delivers new ones, if not I would simply extend them by cutting a block like this each end and glueing it in place, add a plywood gusset either side after fitting in joist hangers if you want belt and braces.

When you say chilly, what temperature do you mean? 21C is probably the coldest temperature that people are comfortable with, I try to set thermostats at 21C, but sometimes get complaints from the family when set at this level and have moved the kitchen up to 22C in the evenings when people aren't moving about so much. One issue is that digital thermostats usually come with a 1 degree differential set so the heating won't kick in until the temperature falls to 20C which would probably be noticeable to people. I changed mine to 0.5 degrees. I don't know how this affects the efficiency of the heating short cycling, but especially with slow to react UFH I don't want to wait too long for it to kick in as the temperature falls. If the starting point of the heated downstairs rooms is 21C then upstairs in the winter may well sit at 18.5-19.5C, I just compared my heated rooms with spare rooms where the heating is off and there is roughly a 2 degree difference in temperature, my house is well insulated but not as well as some on here. It depends a little on the outside temperature, solar gain etc. This is a comfortable temperature to be under a duvet, but not to to be out of bed. I often have discussions with the family who want the upstairs temperature turned up or the heating left on later, the trouble is 21C is too hot for me if I am in bed. I think the ability to have no heating upstairs is somewhat dependent on whether you just go upstairs and get straight into bed or hang around upstairs. It may be that 22C downstairs is needed to maintain a more comfortable temperature upstairs or you do need a little bit of extra heat. As mentioned with doors closed there is only so much that heat can circulate even with MVHR. If you do need a panel heater, £100-150 a time fitted would seem reasonable, you can get panel heaters down to £50 a time. I suspect that you'd be better buying them yourself as the electrician will just go to his normal supplier who may be expensive. I'd try turning the heating up to 22C first.That will probably be cheaper and easier. I am waiting for you turning on the WBS and asking how to cool the place down!

Hi Moira, I am also in the East Midlands area and virtually finished my build, if you need any trades recommending let me know. We had a firm of electricians so they may have capacity to help you out rather than a small company. Also a plumbing company that also does renewable s who might be able to help. Just pm me if you want any details

you should have added "roof" in your disclaimer

I don,t like that the ends of the joist are short of going right to the back of the hangers ,must be liable, if over loaded floor to try to split hanger at outer edge cos the joist is only bearing on half of the hanger bottom plate,so that twice the loading if half the area

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I have a huge disrespect for ISO9000 because my observation was it had absolutely nothing to do with improving quality, it just produces a paper trail of tick boxes and arse covering so you can say "not my fault" I cringed when my last employer said thy were introducing it as I just knew it would take my job even further from design to meaningless paperwork for no practical benefit.

Personally I prefer @joe90 's solution, with the "T" shaped infill, as structurally that it very much better, as is restrains the outwards load in the lower joist structural member. When loaded, the upper member is in tension, so wants to pull away from the wall plate, and the lower member is in compression and wants to push in towards the wall plate. Having end restraints positively stops the lower member from trying to cripple the lower edges of the hanger.

Yours looked a bit better as it was the full height of the joist.

Trust me fam! See the data sheet. For example: https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/camlocks-cabinet-locks/3222562/ That's the difference between T'station & RS.

The trouble with the crazy competent persons schemes we have, virtually no electrician in the land will sign off work he has not done, so you are stuck with that electrician. A compromise might be suggest they concentrate on finishing the wiring and signing it off, and get someone else to finish the plumbing? Do you actually need building control sign off for the FIT? You will need the as built EPC but I would be asking the surveyor what is stopping that being issued now. Then you just need the paperwork for the FIT kit, not the whole house. I would bet if you have the paperwork in order, you could apply for the FIT even if it is not working. If the solar PV were to be connected by a different electrician, he could issue an EIC for that, without rubbing the other electrician up the wrong way too much.

A scheme member? If so take it up with their scheme provider.

Plus you don't want to move the joists or else the centres won't work for the flooring and plasterboards.

? This is going from worse to getting better

Read it and weep woody. 50mm branch with a rodding eye inside, and as it would connect to an appropriate IC outside you’re covered both ends. Have I taught you nothing ? ?

Counter sink with a 40mm spade bit and fit a 40mm washer to spread the load you are only countersinking the ones in the way so might only be a hand full.

Exactly. I doubt if you’re allowed to compress them as that would compound deflection imo. As stated in my first, SE would need to sanction anything ‘off’ the original.

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CPC do a few too, e.g: https://cpc.farnell.com/cam-lock/3101-1a01-td0501/camlock-20mm-keyed-alike-td0501/dp/SR08263?

Toolstation do these in different lengths of barrel

Undo the thunderbolt, countersink and wind back in

We have exactly the same arrangement (except no heating in the bathrooms!) and exactly the same problem. It's always cooler in the bedrooms than it is downstairs. Presently the bedrooms are about 19 degrees, but that's with downstairs pumped up to about 22 degrees. I'd be fine with it if the bathrooms were warmer, and indeed we're in the process of retrofitting IR panels to try and address this. I quite like this bedroom temp. My wife would like it warmer, but then I'd die of heatstroke overnight. I balanced mine. The problem (I speculate) is that if you turn up the fan to get more air (and hence more heat) being distributed, you increase the losses due to lower heat exchanger efficiency, so the incoming air ends up being cooled more. Turn it down to increase heat exchanger efficiency and less air is moved around, so you still end up with cooler bedrooms! We have a very wide open staircase, and another double height area of 6m2. While the upstairs landing does warm up to an extent, the heat doesn't work its way into the bedrooms very well. The air delivered into the bedrooms is naturally cooler than the house average temperature due to the heat lost via heat exchange inefficiency. Unlike downstairs where the heat deficit is quickly made up by the UFH, upstairs, the cooled air is delivered directly into unheated bedrooms, then swept out of the bedrooms into an ensuite or the landing for extraction via the bathroom. This airflow prevents much warm air making its way into the bedrooms from the landing. As for how to solve the problem, if there's already wiring in place, one solution would be to have the electrician install power points at these positions. Assuming you have basic handyperson skills, you can then source and install your own heaters, which will be a lot cheaper than what's presently being proposed.

I’m sure that if they collect them and reconfigured the ends and re deliver you may only be out of pocket for a few hundred. Get it sorted. Move on. Onwards and upwards.

Thanks everyone for your input. I appreciate your support and kindness. I really don't know what I (we) would have done without it. Especially thanks to @mvincentd for cutting through the haze and telling it like it is. I will be talking today to the manufacturers and let's hope something can come of it. I must say the manufacturer has been very professional. Cheshire Roof Trusses. (Robinson Manufacturing) Let's hope @PeterStarck that they can come up with something.

If you think you are going to have to pay for new ones you could make up end sections to extend them ,if you wish solid wood that , has same profile but also has a tongue that goes right into first vertical web for extra fixing glue and screw it all in -- If you really worried make them up using good plywood layers to make solid end as glue lam end extensions - if still worried add extra long outer plywood braces both sides spread load further down the joists - cannot be that much load when you look at thickness of joists hangers--make the glumlam plywood pieces so they can be top hung if you like --no need for joist hangers then --not the simple job you wanted --but dam sight cheaper than new beams and probably stronger if you do it right

It sounds like some apprentice was told to allow 50mm for the ends to be trimmed and took that to mean trim 50mm off each end :-)

Heck I would take the money and run. I have a warranty (Buildstore) but I don't really value it TBH. In hindsight I may not have bothered with it. My neighbours bought their house (similar to this but built by a local builder). They have a mortgage, no warranty and the house didn't even have a completion certificate or even temp habitation up until 6 months ago. That only came to light once my house was signed off as it was a joint building warrant and the council started chasing them for the renewal fee since I had been paying for the renewals before that. I would set the cash value aside to put towards any additional costs incurred later as a result and worry about it then.

Reading through everything I'd say that there is no doubt at all the the supplier has screwed up and should replace all the joists ASAP.

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Easier for vermin to nest in the fluffy stuff isn't it? That's why I pir'd above the bathroom. Figured a nice cold (and drying) breeze across the top would be less attractive. That and I could let the cat have a run around up there everynow and again. Trouble is it's taken me so long the cat's DIED!

The firm doing my electrics & plumbing has just dropped a bombshell by saying they are too busy to do anymore work on my house until January. He was actually quite rude to me (not the first time)saying that I am putting them under pressure & he had accepted other work because I was not ready for them. This is rubbish. There has been outstanding work for ages I have been waiting to be done. I am beside myself. I need to get building control sign off before Feb so I can apply for the FIT for PV. I am at 2nd fix stage but need some first fix finishing before I can get the plastering finished. I will now have to cancel the tiler as the shower try is not fitted. I am just trying to get the absolute minimum done to get through sign off. I work full time & so I can only work at the house in the evenings or the 1 day a week off I have. Would it be possible to get someone else at this stage. Will he need to issue the electrical certificate or can I get someone else to do this?