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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/08/18 in all areas
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This thread really is a bloody good advert for the Buildhub forum in general as well as both of your skills. Of course a cynic may see it as "lone female offering beer and bacon"3 points
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This is a skill he probably needs to work on so I guess the more opportunities the better. (I thinks that's a complement @Nickfromwales)2 points
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I think the balance is wrong! Too much beer and not enough bacon. No sign of life at all this morning .2 points
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I'd not worry too much about noise coming direct from the big ducts as ours was noisy when I tested it like that. I found silencers (home made) made a tremendous difference to the noise level once everything was installed, and our MVHR can be noisier than most because of the built in air-to-air heat pump. I doubt that any MVHR could be any noisier internally than ours with the heat pump running TBH, yet it's pretty silent with the silencers and ducting fitted.1 point
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None on the edges, the stone resin is tougher than you are heavy . Back filling the gap along the front leading edge with tile adhesive is what I do, but I doubt I'd it makes a blind bit of difference TBH1 point
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My unit came from an outfit called 'Boulder'- definitely at the budget end! It was really the only way that I could get the features that I needed (summer bypass) within budget. I suppose if it turns out to be a disaster, the unit itself could be swapped out for a better one quite easily, but let's hope it doesn't come to that.1 point
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Unfortunately the Dunning-Kruger effect will render that warning ineffective.1 point
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Rather than doing a full PHPP model, you could make a simple spreadsheet model and see what happens when you change the key elements of walls, doors, windows floor, and air changes. You can normally get basic weather information for you area from the Met Office.1 point
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Can't see the face, it could be @newhome... Hirsute...Greek maybe? That's the shower trap they're flushing!1 point
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I think someone has already stated that a good trades person will never recommend a poor trades person Good ones are alway busy So book in advance I’ve work in until September1 point
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Because I opted to use 12V DC for all the controls (just really a safety preference on my part) I used one of these valves (I bought three, just in case, but they seem really well made): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorized-Ball-Valve-Electrical-Valve-DN20-G3-4-12V-2-wire-3-wires/201564641525?hash=item2eee3058f5:m:mpjP6_x5zwaHxqXmPnZZWig1 point
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Anyone looked up the English Building Regs clearance distances yet? Without that we can't proceed. Another alternative we looked at is the Puraflow system. http://www.symbiotictrading.com/products/puraflo/ This discharges the effluent into containers full of peat and it filters out of the bottom. They are laid on a bed of stones and gravel so what drains out soaks into the ground. They can either be buried or sat on the surface in that case acting like a packaged filter mound. When we looked that solution would fit the very small amount of space we had available, we would have needed 2 crates of peat for our 3 bedroom house and the percolation rate of our soil. But for some unspecified reason building control rejected it, and at that point SEPA granted us a permit to discharge into the burn so we stopped looking at surface discharge. Can you find out who owns the 25ft border between you and the road? and see if you can get permission to put the soakaway under there. This is quite common up here, indeed the soakaway for our old house is under the field behind it.1 point
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You're on! But only if you promise to treat me like an irritating inconvenience and not return my calls!1 point
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I used a single motorised ball valve to isolate the buffer tank from the ASHP when it's in cooling mode, just where you have one shown. I chose a motorised ball valve rather than a conventional motorised valve as I wanted to be 100% sure that it would seal when closed. Having looked at the inside of a conventional motorised valve I wasn't 100% convinced that it would be a 100% seal, and as even a small amount of chilled water seeping past into the buffer would cool it down a bit, I opted to use a ball valve that I was confident would be a 100% seal when closed. You could use a manual ball valve, but you'd be operating it a lot in warm weather, when you want to keep the buffer tank warm for preheating hot water but also want to have the floor cooled a bit.1 point
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Now the drinking makes sense, they're MAKING the ST panels to my design! And the foil off the Tunnocks is clearly for the reflector at the rear.1 point
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I feel sad for you that you have to deal with crap like this. They can see your house and what you're trying to achieve for your family and think it's OK to charge a probably descent chunk of money and give you a crap job. I can assure you, you will always notice those ripples and marks if you leave it. I had a plasterer recommended to me my a neighbour who was in the trade, apparently this guy did a lot of work in Hampstead houses and was spot on. He did the plastering in my loft conversion and a few other walls and it always annoys me when I'm up there. there are marks exactly like yours - and it was done 20 years ago!!! It's a real shame that these "professionals" can't see how bad their work is and are happy to have no pride in what they leave a customer1 point
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Only managed to get one c*** to come round who’s f***** off and not given a price. Not only that but the unprofessional prick took one the lights apart, phoned me up at work to moan they were small and then had lost one of the face plate screws after leaving it all in bits. C***. They’re all c****.1 point
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Well it says that but there is nothing in place to make you do it!, the license from the envoironment agency also says this must happen but I am yet to find out how they enforce it. Yes of course it will need electric ( vortex uses very little) and they all require emptying at some stage but in my opinion the vortex ticked more boxes than some.1 point
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And I'm there in an instant. People may frown, they're T-total vegetarians most prob1 point
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If it was too dark to skim the walls that isn't your problem, the builder or plasterer should have had suitable lighting. I wouldn't accept that, can you withhold payment until its rectified?1 point
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I agree with Dave Poor No sanding I skimmed five bedrooms last week There will be no ripples or filling To many are one coating and running over the skim with plastic float or spatula1 point
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I like your door Peter Slso the handle looks great Not one we would have considered But goes really well with this door1 point
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Might have rain and flood issues. ”If there is any water in the hole, remove it first”. No good in Manchester without a wet and dry hoover, then.1 point
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If you've got time to drink and measure each others fart temperatures... Seriously though well done for taking this on. Proper DIY SOS stuff!1 point
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Great work boys @Nickfromwales @PeterW when are you coming over to do my plumbing and hot press install ?1 point
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So just to prove that hybrid cars are not viable for long journeys @PeterW has me setting off on a 7 hour round trip to Preston to pick up a 5 quid part!1 point
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I think readers might be confused, naturally the beer is being used to fill the intermediate transfer circuits with alcohol, it will never freeze and if desperate you can get a drink from the drain tap!1 point
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I'm renowned in the house for if something's in front of me I eat it. Slumped in the sofa yesterday watching some telly, famished and wolfing some filled pittas the wife had done, I might have dropped a few crumbs down my front. Very nearly ate a large SPLINTER!1 point
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I'd not worry about it if it's that high up. The only time it will have anything other than a barely detectable flow will be when the system is on boost, and it's unlikely to be on boost when people are sleeping.1 point
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Tbh, I was going to suggest what @ProDave has said, but you've got here before me. I actually think your repair isn't too bad given what an absolute pig this kind of FU is to have to come behind and put right, even for a tradesman who's done it before As said, sand that lot of filler back until you just start to see the scrim tape, but DONT get actually down to it or it'll lift the fibres and that's a whole new can of worms. Apply another layer of filler with about 300mm of spread from the hole edge out, and then fine sand that to an acceptable finish. Paint is your friend here as if you apply a good 3 coats to the filler, the paint will actually act as a fine scratch filler and you can sand the completely dry paint back until the filler JUST starts to show, then you'll see paint in the dings and scratches which you leave there. Then, repaint, open a beer, and give yourself a pat on the back for not going in the car to find this goon and river dance on his face with rugby togs on. ?1 point