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Hi all! First time posting, but I've been devouring the contents of the site for a few months whilst getting funding sorted for the next phase in my building. (A great source of information and debate!) Warning, it's a long post! A bit of background.. I bought a plot with an existing bungalow in 2011, the previous builder had run out of cash mid-build so that the site was in a real state to the untrained eye. At this stage, I pretty much struggled to change a lightbulb, so it was a fairly huge undertaking to build the 5 bed home that I had in mind. One of the first things I did whilst we were waiting for completion was to grab a shovel and start digging up some of the garden. About 3 hours later, back aching and hands raw, I'd only scratched the surface of what is almost 0.8 of an acre! That was when my builder came past and recommended I hire a rotavator, that was the first of about a million lessons I learnt on the build! Present So I've managed to build a nice 5-bed bungalow that we've been happily residing in for the last few years and still have foundations in place from the first builder for a fairly huge garage block (11m x 9m) and also another detached annexe (9m x 6m). The intention was to finish the outbuildings/ do the driveway when funds allowed, however, one thing has lead to another and the plans have grown so that the detached garage attaches to the main building, creating a more useable space with another floor above it with additional bedrooms. The reason for this is that my family has increased since we moved in (my brother is now married, my parents live with us, and I've had 3 children!) so we'd like to create zones for each family. The Plan I've been messing around with plans whilst sorting out funding and have come up with something that I think looks good and has all the space we'd need. The main limiting factor in our case is funds, the plot is more than large enough and our area has a fairly high ceiling for house prices. With this in mind, any advice on keeping the building costs as low as possible will be much appreciated. Another reason for sharing my plans with you guys is that with your vast knowledge of whats to come, I'm hoping you might pick up on some aspects which I may have overlooked. I'm not an expert by any means, though I've gained enough skills since the initial build with further projects that I feel comfortable managing the build myself and getting my hands dirty where I can to save money. Things I'm considering/ decided and would welcome your experiences on... Heating and Hot Water This is a pretty big consideration to be honest, my current thoughts are to install a ground source heat pump with boreholes, this will provide the UFH throughout the new build. The current part of the house I'd like to keep intact as much as possible so I've not intention of ripping the floors up and installing UFH, so the existing rads will have to do, but ideally I'd get rid of the combi boiler which is struggling to meet our demands at the moment and isn't in great nick. I'm not sure whether a system exists that will give us a whole home solution, with hot enough water and low running costs. As I have gas, I'd be reluctant to install an electric hot water tank, I'd imagine a gas fired would be significantly cheaper to run, though I've never seen this paired with a Ground Source Heat Pump. Tesla Solar Roof Ever since I saw this, I've wanted it! With the limited information there is out there, the cost of installing this is going to be somewhat similar to a slate roof but with the added benefit of providing enough solar energy for our needs, including electric cars (we already have 2 Nissan Leafs!) Obviously, the main drawback is that I'm going to have to wait for it, I've already put a deposit down which doesn't mean anything for timescales but I'm willing to wait a while longer as I think this will both add value to my home, provide the energy we need and also look outstanding too. However, that's not to say that I'll wait forever, and with my budgetary restrictions, this is definitely a luxury so I'd appreciate some alternatives or suggestion you guys may have. ICF I intend to build the extension in ICF, I'm currently favouring Nudura simply because my architect has recently completed a project using this system and there's a fairly local supplier. The reason I'm favouring ICF is that I think I could handle putting the shell together (with a little help) and I believe this will not only save costs, but time too as well as taking away a trade we normally sub out. Additionally, the added benefit of a tighter shell with better u values than block and render is a welcome bonus, especially with the amount of glazing I'd like. Cladding For some reason, I'd always assumed the cheapest way to clad a building was to render it, so I've not really explored many other options. Based on some calculations, it seems that many cladding options such as wood are going to cost a similar amount so it's something I'd like to know more about, how have you guys decided what to use and why (design/ budget/ maintenance etc.?) Structural Spans At the moment my architect (he's not a full architect) hasn't began work on putting my design together, but before he does, I'd like to know if there are any major structural issues that make my design unfeasible. I will obviously use a structural engineer too, but before it gets to that stage, I'd like to know the impact of my design and whether I should try to create an internal structural wall that can reduce the span (9m). Are there any other options? Costs I'm going to be adding somewhere along the lines of 600m2 including the annexe, ground floor, first floor and mezzanine levels. Going through some of the build cost calculators gives me some rather worrying figures but they don't necessarily account for the fact that most ground works are in place, including services which i took the liberty of adding water/ gas and network cabling to the other buildings already. Since our existing home serves our purposes for now, there is no rush to get everything done from the get go, so I envisage completing areas and rooms as and when time and funds allow, so my main budget needs to get the shell built including the roof and windows, electrics and plumbing (both 1st fix only). Ideally I'd like it to be clad and looking finished from the outside baring any landscaping and driveway which will be the icing on the cake eventually. I think I'm going to have a pot of around £200k-£300k to get to that stage, so I'd be interested to know if you think I'm crazy or not! With all of this in mind, I'd love for some cost saving measures you think would be relevant to the build, I know the basics such as shopping around, thinking outside of the box with suppliers (direct from factory etc) Thanks for taking the time to read, I'm looking forward to hearing what you guys make of my project!

I'm making my own version by hacking a standard Geberit. Details in my bog...

That's an amazing space! First thing I thought. Our (also Crossfit) gym has special flooring in the main open areas, although I'm not sure of the actual make-up. No weights are allowed outside of those areas. "Proper" gym flooring can be eye-wateringly expensive, I believe. Not sure whether you could do a cheap version with a layers or two of plywood covered in some form of rubber matting over the top. Re: lighting, I saw this article: http://luxreview.com/design-clinic/2014/10/three-ways-to-light-a-gym - among other things, it mentions the importance of low intensity lights. I hate doing wall-balls or anything involving lying on my back underneath the lighting fixtures at our gym, and they use pretty low intensity panels. I'm not sure of the details, but they're suspended panels about a metre square.

If you like antique phones. Or you're not using dangly filters. Has there been a phone sold in the past 20 years that doesn't include its own ring-gen? I always disconnect the ring wire these days, to help balance for xDSL.

I found the following technical intro to cement usage during home construction useful and thought it would help others at the bottom end of the learning curve like me. Now I know how many bricks can be laid when a full 25kg OPC bag is used. Published by Blue Circle. https://tarmac-bluecircle.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/Builders-Guide-170118a.pdf

Don't see the point in putting another standpipe in for ground water testing of the previous one found nothing. I am not sure they understood what exactly you where looking for with regards a mission statement. Get in contact with them again and ask if during the excavation of the basement you come across something that you think is contaminated will they test it and how much will it cost and from these findings you can dispose of it either way. Run this by EH guy and see if this scenario suits him.

I can see you’re a joy to live with . Bet she deserves a medal . I hope you have identical tiles or this thread could take on a life of it’s own a la boxing in while you decide which ones to lay where

And as an added thought and to cover your back, write to Buildzone, refer to your earlier conversation and say that your understanding is that you are covered by their policy until the formal completion certificate is issued or until the expiry date of the policy, whichever is earlier, and to let you know by return if that is not the case.

Just +1 to what @jack said on lighting. Most people spend some time lying on their backs in a gym and lights, even at 5m height, easily make it unpleasant. If there is a way to create reflected lighting, may be excessively bright, but pointing a bit up from the top of the wall area (plus bright reflective paint for the ceiling), it might work. Otherwise, larger panels with lower intensity would probably be better. I personally don't care about the colour.

The BS who came to my house (30th Nov) didn’t say that it would be signed off during the visit, he said that he would let me know. He will probably point out things that he is not prepared to accept so you know it won’t be then anyway (or mine did at the initial inspection). Following day I got this: I have spoken with Mark and the application for completion has been put forward for acceptance so the completion certificate should be with you. Then the completion certificate came on 8th (by email). I take it that the 8th is the formal date but it didn’t matter to me as I already had insurance. So it was only a week between final inspection and the certificate arriving. I would line up cover and as soon as soon as the completion certificate arrives ring up and put the policy on risk. This was in Scotland and as always YMMV.

Fyi. You can fit tanks in an attic and mitigate against leaks. You basically get a sheet of marine ply, make some 100x18mm pine up stands all round, and GRP it to make a giant drip tray. EDPM rubber membrane may be an easier DIY method. You then just run an oversized overflow pipe 32mm minimum to atmosphere ( roof eave etc ) from the drip tray.

I think there are already using it for prosthetics in medicine, though - as yet only in a few cases. Lots of research going on.

Thank-you for the comments so far :-). Posting here was with the aim of useful solutions and problems being pointed out. Replying to comments so far. @Onoff Sorry - is that libellous? Get a swim spa into that bathroom ! Falcon Trunking may be the one; I remembered an system alternative to someone proposing wooden boxing-in in a bathroom. We are more self-supervising than self-building on the refurbishment side, though we will be doing equipment etc. The guys who run the gym are very competent and well-qualified in training and gym things. For a bit of background, all work is being done by the appropriately qualified professionals. I am picking a pair of steel toecaps this afternoon so I will be allowed to visit. The LL is refurbishing a 55m x 18m unit which has been empty for several years (spending a 6 figure sum), and the scope of his works are not quite where we thought they were - we expected lighting and a water supply to the to-be-refitted washroom. Hence the questions above. I helped fund the startup about 3 years ago when asked, and my role is generally background and pointing out potholes in the road (eg how long planning takes for anything :-) ). We are moving from our current premises, which are about 5000 sqft - so all the special flooring, H&S, ventilation issues are familiar and being managed. The current premises have been properly inspected by the right officials etc. But the current premises (until next weekend) are also upstairs, so we have managed weight dropping, H&S etc particularly carefully for the sake of the people downstairs. Planning for change of use has been a saga, as ever. Many gyms seem to operate unlawfully in their B1 or B2 premises, where they really need D3 use-class. We have the right class, though it took months and months to go through (full sequential test etc). Accessibility has been front and centre, though exactly what accessibility is required in a gym, and for whom, is a little debatable, and what degree of adaptation etc is required. Difficult questions are very welcome. @jack Yes we have the right floor coverings, and a culture (so far) of not slamming weights around. And yes, it is eyewateringly expensive even if you cut test-and-demonstration deals. But cheep-and-cheerful involves significant compromises, so we think it is better to focus on reducing the cost rather than finding an alternative. There is quite a lot that can be done in that regard. Thank-you for the article. I will pass it on. Lighting is now looking like one area where we need to think carefully. @Nickfromwales Thanks for all that. Ferdinand

@Ferdinand Run a 22mm Hepworth pipe up and over with basic girder clamps and just lag it. Cover with white duct tape for aesthetics Do that with a 100m length if a 50m isn't enough. No joints on the main run is a no brainer. 2-man manageable without issue. As you should have 3 phase available, you'll need to provision to have a new 3-phase board to run the electric showers and water heater. Size the water heater accordingly with either a 15litre instant blended down to 50oC flow or if preferred just fit a Sunamp unit so you have no valves / complexity / discharge pipework to outside / annual inspection and known maintenance. SA = Fit and forget. . For showers, forget the accumulator and go for a single 50gal break tank, or two smaller 25gal coffin tanks if space is tight. Use these on a 22mm pipe 'common rail' reducing to 15mm to supply each one and use Pumped Electric showers. Instant high performance and they suck the water out of the gravity / break tanks. The water heater / WC / kitchen / utility can then run completely unaffected by the bulk water consumption of the showers. Triton T80Si These have integral run time limiters for 8-10-12 min showers or around those times afaic remember so members can't shower forever and run the break tanks dry. Also preserves water in the event that somebody leaves a shower running. They'll automatically shut off after the preset timer ( user definable jumper pins are located inside the shower to select duration ). 8.5kw is plenty but they are available in 9.5kw too iirc.

Must be some confusion somewhere. I have Rationel windows. So far I they seem good and there are no issues although I haven’t really had much cause to contact them. One thing not specific to them was I ordered a colour that was not a standard RAL colour. This created a nightmare trying to get garage doors to match. So when ordering windows I would consider if you want doors, rainwater goods etc to match them and if that is possible.

Gym user? Think I might have posted up when I used Falcon Trunking? Someone comnented it (the trunking) looked nice. They do cable AND pipe management systems: http://www.falcontrunking.co.uk/home.html

Planning, Fire certification, accessibility? You'll need accessible toilets, showers, fire escapes, etc. Is someone taking care of this for you? Can't imagine electric feeding multiple showers will work. What are you doing to support the floor where heavy weights are lifted and dropped? Ventilation is also a big issue in gyms. How are you ventilating the toilets and showers or the waste? I've a lot more questions and bit worried about this.

We use the intercom sometimes on ours, between the bungalow and house. Quite useful.

That's a really useful post @epsilonGreedy. Thanks very much indeed. It's so useful to have the theory as a starting point, and even more useful to have the experts cast a jaundiced eye over the guidance. The guidance does contain the following sentence ' ... These quantities do not include any allowance for wastage. ...' (Not that @Declan52 suffers from jaundice )

Mike, I think that you are excusing corporate or systemic incompetence. Issues of trust and risk need to be tempered by an assessment of the consequences. You are getting hosed about 30 min fire risk in a single dwelling, one in which the self builder is proposing to live in and as nod says 12mm plasterboard + a skin will give more than that in most circumstances. Grenfell Tower had 120 flats. The 71 confirmed deaths and the total number TBD had a single exit route which had unprotected gas pipes running along it. I am not blaming the individual LA BCOs because I do think that they have a thankless job, but I am challenging the systemic environment and management policies which -- in my view at least -- mean that they can't put their focus where society needs them to and instead have to vent their frustrations on individual self-builders.

@Neversaynever better pic.

Not knocking the technical prowess and thought gone into it but that looks f****** 'orrible! Had the woman no taste? Did she have you do the ducks on the wall as well?

If you have a bath could tee off for basin and shower underneath this. Keeps joint somewhat accessible and as said, not often washing hands whilst showering.

@Heppy yes i have. Used them for our last build and fitted their Ecocent, and Classic heat pump. my equipment has going strong for 3 years now with them carrying out an annual service on both. I had a temperature probe go and they came straight out and changed it. As JSH states they are one of the cheapest around for a good reliable product. In fact i saw a prototype MVHR they are developing that heats and cools and is half the size of the Genvex. Shame i have my Mvhr already.