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July September Beautiful it isn't, but once it's clad with some nice wood (any skips round by yours?)..... Now lets get a roof on and a first floor. Ian

Reporting back on the Wagner Project Pro 119 from @alexc. That is a £600 machine when new. My handyman did his first ever session earlier this week, and did 3 rooms with 2 coats of Leyland Trade Contract White over new plaster - walls and ceilings. Total surface sprayed was about 140-150 sqm x 2 coats = just under 300 sqm. That took 5 hours of actual spraying using a total of around 27 litres of paint, which had been diluted 10%. I went with Leyaland because current Wickes offers gave a good price of £1.30 per litre for an order of 30 or 60 litres (10l tubs 3 for 2) - about 30% below the best price the Johnstone's Centre could do even with a Trade Account unless I bought pallets of it. That is just about 1 sqm per minute, which is probably slow in the scheme of things - as we ran it at a lower pressure setting than Alex said was possible. So coverage was just on 10 sqm per litre - a little low but one coat was the first one on the plaster. We deliberately took an elapsed day or two to learn the system and work out the tricks and let the knowledge sink in. Masking the rooms was done carefully, and took about half a day, and cleaning the machine afterwards took about an hour. The estimate is that overall it is probably 3 times quicker if including the masking in this case over using rollers etc. We mixed the tubs for about 15 minutes with a drill paddle immediately before us, and had a bucket of water to submerge the gun when not actively using it - that may be overkill. There was quite a lot of overspray, but that is probably partly down to the learning curve. Masking the floor with building membrane would fix that. i think the easiest mistake to make would be to dispense paint into a bucket which has been used before and not cleaned *really* thorough - the little bits of paint which flake off are exactly the right type to block the gun and waste half an hour cleaning it. We just diluted the new 10l tubs 10% and put the paint pipes in there. Were I using buckets I think I would use a new one every session; the 75p or 99p for the bucket is cheaper than time cleaning out blockages. A good purchase, which will pay for itself within one job just in saved time. And I want Alex's plot moved to Derbyshire to build a house on. Ferdinand

Think about it, if I had somewhere warm and dry to work she'd come in, hover and "want to talk"! Ditto if I finished anything I'd have to come inside and again "talk". Nope, I'm quite happy veering off into yet another unfinished project territory.

I'm always keeping an eye on induction hobs as this is what I eventually plan to have in our new house. A really interesting (to me!) article is in the latest issue of Which? They compared a best buy Samsung NZ63J977OEK at £799 with a New World IHF60T at £254. The Samsung got a score of 80% whilst the New World got 79%. Barely a gnat's whisker between the two for performance (Which? comment that the Samsung is slightly quicker) but a whopping price differential. The cheapest current supplier for the New World is Argos.

Hi, I'm wanting to upgrade our loft insulation, and just wanting some confirmation that my idea is OK. Currently we have 100mm fibreglass insulation between the joists (I've just been up and measured, they measure around 107mm deep), and we currently have loft boards, which I'd like to retain for storage purposes. House is 1968, with traditional roof with purlins, so no crossing timbers in the main storage area. Current U value somewhere around the 0.4U mark. Total space is around 6m x 5m (35m2) (bungalow) I've thought about quite a few different methods, loft legs (too expensive), just laying insulation over and losing storage space (not ideal), and then my final thought... my final idea is to cross these existing joists with more 4x2 joists (we would need 24x (47x100x3m) to cover the whole area at the relevant spacing for the loft boards), and then lay another 100mm fibreglass inside these, giving 200mm overall (i appreciate that's still not up to the regulatory 270mm, but the extra 70mm ontop of the 200mm doesn't bring down U values as much as the initial extra 100mm on top of the original 100mm, and the cost is far greater) which would land us somewhere around the 0.21U mark, so effectively halving the U value for the cost of the wood (£136), and a bit of insulation (i've already got 3 rolls of 100mm, so likely wouldn't need much more). Now this is all well and good, and whilst i do all the work, which i'll do myself, i'm going to ensure all of the electric (lighting) cables which are up there are in good nick, and the circuits are as simplified as possible (and theres a couple of junction boxes which need taking out) (Low energy lighting by the way, so overheating cables shouldn't be an issue). I did however think of one draw back, and that is the 200KG of timber required as extra to what is already up there...now in my mind, this will be absolutely no problems at all, but I'd like a little reassurance before i bring our entire ceiling down lol! Theres not a massive amount of stuff in the loft storage wise, certainly nothing heavy, and no water tanks or anything like that. Any feedback greatly appreciated. Regards Mike

After you've bought one, and before you fit it, check that the water runs down the drain (and doesn't form little pools). You know it makes sense.

Have you looked at crowdsourcing, not the same, but some guy was trying to raise money for this: https://www.gofundme.com/9wvxt9-replacement-window

When you get to do the actual flooring look at 22mm "easy peel, moisture proof chipboard". our builder always uses it and glues it with D4 glue to the joists and between sheets , no nails or screws. Ours was put in when the brick/blockwork was at first floor level and it got soaked during the rest of the build but remained intact with no water damage. I am not pealing the surface plastic off till after the plastering and the flooring has remained really clean. cannot recomend it enough.

I think some of that studding from the sheds is only Grade 4.6 mild steel. Years back we BINNED all our 4.6 stuff and from thereon in only ever use 8.8 min. The 4.6...well you can tell the difference when you hacksaw or file it it's so soft.

Wooooaaaah @MikeSharp01, yer not inviting yer-self round fer an Acid House party are ya? Despite how daunted I feel about this task, it's bloody interesting

Good question. Although @Mr Punter has come up with the perfect answer to what I should do with (the now extracted from the concrete) 130 meters of threaded bar....... (above)

@recoveringacademic Let us know when you've prepped the hangers, I suspect we can round up a few bods to throw the joists in with you. Think there are a few of us in the area.

On a fairly regular basis, we get questions regarding whether it is permitted to live on site in a static caravan. Schedule 1 of The Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) (Scotland) Order 1992 / Schedule 2 of The Town and Country Planning (General Permitted Development) Order 1995 both refer to paragraphs 2 - 10 of the First Schedule of the Caravan Sites and Control of Development Act 1960, which details the permitted use of land as a caravan site where a caravan site licence is not required (to obtain a caravan site licence, you require planning permission). http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/Eliz2/8-9/62 Paragraph 9 states Building and engineering sites Subject to the provisions of paragraph 13 of this Schedule, a site licence shall not be required for the use as a caravan site of land which forms part of, or adjoins, land on which building or engineering operations are being carried out (being operations for the carrying out of which permission under Part III of the Act of 1947 has, if required, been granted) if that use is for the accommodation of a person or persons employed in connection with the said operations. Many people believe that this paragraph means they can live on site with their families. For those individuals who are employed in connection with the relevant building operations that may be true, but the paragraph does not cover family members not employed in that process, children being a good example. Whilst it may be the case that individual Planning Authorities are more relaxed about their interpretation of this paragraph, and individual circumstances will differ, the only way to be sure that you can permanently reside on site is to obtain planning permission. The most straightforward way of doing so is to include provision of the static caravan in your main planning application.

Are the Durasol the air tight layer? If I were doing this I would put a layer of airtightness membrane behind the wall plate it will be forced against the blocks so should stay air tight there, you can then seal it to the wall around the wall plate (above and below) that way you don't have to seal the individual joists to the wall plate. Around the bolts I would just run a bead of silicone around the holes in the membrane that the bolts come through then squash the wall plate onto it.

@Ed_MK Reading the pre-App they seem to want a) More turning space but b) Less hardstanding. I think that "permeable paving" may be useful here for part of your turning/parking area ... ie the stuff that is a matrix but lets grass grow in the gaps. Not that expensive, and can be very recycled (point that out). @Calvinmiddle used this in his plans. It may be that the things that are easy for people to say in the 'this is our opinion' pre-App may evaporate once they have to take responsibility for it properly. You do not have to do every dot and tittle they want, it has to be I think "acceptable in planning terms". If they fixate on something, parking is quite good - at least there are defined objective standards for it, so you are not eating blancmange with chopsticks while debating the finer points of oenology with a teetotaller. One possibility for your drive/parking could be an in/out driveway, say with echelon parking in front of the house or against the hedge. Visitor parking can then possibly be on the driveway itself. That might well give the Landscape Architect a fit due to the extra 0.000000000014% of Milton Keynes' endangered stock of hawthorn bushes it would cost, but if you put a net benefit into your landscape plan or your D&A backed by say a letter from your Tree Man (or natural-ologist if you have one) eg double the thickness of the hedge between the entrances, then it might be acceptable on balance. I think you need to take great care as to what you say "we will do", "the applicant intends to do" etc. Do not over promise on specifics where you do not need to. That could be a rod for your back. One for a conversation with your architect. Shades of grey are very useful colours. Ferdinand

Something here maybe: https://www.catersparesuk.co.uk/product/oven-lamp-bulb-glass-fitting-holder-inc-bulb-high-temperature-38mm-cut-out-part/ Reflective mirrors.....Pyro.....FP cable.....angled / shielded spots pointing up mounted low on the hearth.....???

@Ed_MK That is probably not legalese - it is quite likely to be people with not-run-of-the-mill designs or sites with some difficult aspect trying to demonstrate to the Council that their unusual approach meets all the policies. That is (channelling and modifying Cromwell ) watering the opposition's potential gunpowder before the start of battle. In the last few years with Local Plans passing and not passing and being approved / not approved / half-approved / going round in circles, a lot of people have used the "presumption in favour of sustainable development" national guideline which applies when a Local Plan and supply of Housing Land is not in place. That often needs a planning argument. Sometimes there can be some bluster, or sometimes the argument can be a work of art. The ideal is not to need to do it at all. It all depends on the context, and you with advice from your architect or professional have to decide what you need to do. A good architect or professional will also - crucially - also tell you what in their opinion you do *not* need to do. That is something it is useful to say when you set the tone of the relationship, and useful to ask from time to time. Ferdinand

It looks like standard pvc twin and earth wire is only rated to 70C. The flex used on irons appears to be ok to about 150-180C I think.

250C... http://sinolec.co.uk/en/ceramic-lamp-holders/1211136-bc-b22d-porcelain-lamp-holder-k567.html

I doubt the stove maker will be able to help. I think your best bet is to get the stove installed, fire it up and measure the air and surface temperatures where the lights will be installed. Then find lights that are rated for that environment. I doubt you will find lights that are specifically rated for use close to a wood burner, not because it's difficult to make lights to go there but because they don't test lights for suitability in in every imaginable location.

Interesting one. I don't have any specific knowledge on this but surely the critical thing is the distances involved- your stove should specify a minimum distance to combustibles. You could also shield the cables e.g. in metal conduit.

That's about my bathroom size. TF I laid A142 mesh as I FORGOT to add the fibres!

Ha, my wife is a bit miffed that I am retired and she is still working but since starting our self build I regularly work 12-14 hour days, live in a caravan ( she lives in a house with central heating). But I would not have it any other way, yes I am knackered most of the time but living the dream ( the dream is finishing !!!!!!!!!!). Chin up Ian, don't let the bastards grind you down, life, family and friends ( and I include many on this forum) are what quality of life is all about . A successful local business man just had his overdraft facility pulled by his bank for no reason, he sold his private car collection and gave the bank the "bird" and advertised the fact. He changed his bank.

Hands up who wants to touch that flint work and marvel at it whilst making appreciative noises! Me!

For a first attempt I would say they have really taken the brief on board and produced something clean and uncluttered.

The camouflage element works well - completely hidden from view.

Open plan is all the rage these days ?

I like it. It has a certain minimalist style to it that I can't quite put my finger on.

I'd recommend a few more walls and a roof

I have metal web joists and used a rigid plastic branch system. It's no problem as long as it's well thought out before fitting.

BPC seem to be of the opinion that its easier to over supply than to rush some extras out. The duct etc isn't that expensive so id rather be looking at it than looking for it. Again, just a bit of pre-planning on your duct runs and also how you will install the main unit. Think avoiding vibration noise. We installed my brothers on a floating platform hung from chains. Means its not actually in contact with the attic floor.