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Hi all, We are looking for opinions and advice on the systems we have currently specified for our build. It’s a near-passivhaus build, with MBC timber frame on an insulated raft foundation. Our predicted SAP rating is 102. The Primary fuel will be electric, there is no gas in the village, and we don’t intend to install LPG or Oil. We plan on having a large solar array (just waiting to DNO approval at the moment) and Tesla Powerwall – using the Octopus Tesla Electricity tariff, so power diverters and smart energy management are off the cards. We are looking at having a Sunamp Heat battery, in place of a hot water cylinder, and heating the house will be Ground floor UFH, and potentially using the MVHR air. We would like to run the ASHP in reverse in summer to cool the ground floor slab and the MVHR – but would still need to run it forwards to charge the heat battery. The Sunamp would be the HP version, which has primary input of (High Temperature) ASHP, and a backup option of mains electricity. This suggests 2 possibly options for Hot water in summer: 1) Run the ASHP in Heating mode when necessary to charge the Sunamp – and disconnect the UFH and MVHR art this point 2) Always run the ASHP in cooling mode when actively cooling, and charge the Sunamp from electricity (surplus from the solar in summer). Sunamp specify ASHPs to work with the heat battery, one being the Valiant aroTherm which is reversible. We wonder if anyone has done this sort of configuration and can offer advice on how they achieved it / information on how it has performed. Is there a valve / manifold product available that could handle isolating the output of the ASHP from the Sunamp or the Heating elements depending on which mode is being used on each? Our main concern at the moment is that we like a cool bedroom (17 – 18 degrees) and want to make sure we can achieve this year round with the systems we install. Here is a simple diagram of the system we are trying to describe with this post.
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Does anyone have experience of using a smart wi-fi spur with IFTTT and Ocotpus Agile? I’d like to use one of these to tell my Sunamp (and Willis heaters when/if we need them) to fire up when the Agile price goes below a set figure. Would one of these do the trick? https://wifi-smart-home.co.uk/smart-wifi-spur-switch-32-amp-pure-glass/
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I’m confused by the data that my Shelly 1PM’s are giving me. Today we have used around 36kWh of electricity, the vast majority on the Octopus 5p rate between 00:30 and 04:30 as you can see from the images below. The bulk of that consumption was the Sunamp: and the Willis heater: According to the Shelly app the Sunamp consumed 13.32kWh but the Willis heater consumed 14Wh. I’m assuming the 14Wh should be 14kWh. Does anyone know why this isn’t showing correctly or is something else afoot?
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Hi all, I am currently in the middle of a new build (roof is now on). I need to start making decisions on heating/plumbing and I wanted to get some advice before proceeding. My idea is to use off-peak power supplemented with a solar array to run 2x Sunamps for DHW and UFH. The house will have a wood-burning stove, so although I will install UHF plumbing during construction, I might not utilize unless we feel we need it. quick info: - 2 bedroom Bungalow 120m2, well insulated (200mm EWI), triple-glazed, good air-tightness. - I plan to use Sunamp UniQ9 HW+iPV for DHW and another for UHF (UHF will be in two bathrooms and kitchen approx 40m2) - 2.3kw solar array (flat roof mounted) - wood burning stove 5-8kw Some questions I have so far: For DHW, am I right in thinking I need a unvented pressurised system for this set-up... as a pump is needed to draw water through the Sunamp? Is there any need for an expensive solar PV diverter? Surely I can just have a switch with a timer for sunrise/sunset after the inverter? Thanks everyone!! --
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So my new PCM58 has arrived (see for why I have a new one): And the new one has an energy efficiency sticker on it: Show only grade C - which is well below my expectation. Anyone know why it is given such a poor mark, I thought one of the key selling points was it was a super highly insulated way of storing heat.
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Hi. I'm a retired (10 years) electrical/electronics engineer and IT Lecturer with too much curiosity probably. I have a 1950's house with upgraded insulation and I'm looking to replace my combi boiler and get rid of gas. A Sunamp unit for hot water and an ASHP for heating are favoured, the idea being to use off peak electricity and installed solar PV to the maximum and minimise emissions etc. Green Home grant and RHI under investigation. Only a shallow knowledge of plumbing, heating and ventilation, so I'm on a steep learning curve. In my early 70s I'm having to get others to do things for me as my DIY capabilities decrease. Very frustrating!
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Hi, Looking at a Sunamp and not really getting anywhere fast ? Hoping to tap into people's knowledge please!?? I have a 3 bed semi that is effectively morphing to six bed 3.5 bathroom home. I want a Sunamp, after having seem them via fully charged years ago. The corgi registered plumber (via the builder) is a nice enough chap, but not really interested in reading page after page of manuals about a product he has never heard of vs putting in a megaflo that's he's done hundreds of. The plan is to use the existing 24kw combi to charge the Sunamp, and have the Sunamp do the hot water for the house. The combi itself (as I'm on mains gas) doing the heating. Plumber wants to know how to plumb things in. Which seems pretty reasonable to me! Sunamp seems to want to sell me a solution, whereas, I just need a product, if that makes sense? Anyway, what does your respective collective knowledge say? And is there a way to private message people on here?? As I see a few threads from 2017, 2018 and thought best to start a new vs trying to bring them back to life. Any all help welcome
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Hello all, I stumbled on this forum as part of a search for information about SunAmp batteries. I’ve spent a bit of time reading other threads on the topic and this seems to be a friendly and helpful piece of the internet. I’m on a quest to reduce the CO2 generated by the 3-bed 1960s semi (approx 98 sq m) where I live with my partner (no kids). We’ve insulated the upstairs, added some loft insulation, upgraded the double glazing and last year, we installed 5700W of solar panels and a Tesla Powerwall 2. I’d estimate we generate around 5000kWh a year from the panels, and export around 3000kWh of that. We’ve got our grid electricity usage down to about 500kWh per year. The biggest element of this being our electric shower (the Powerwall can only ever supply 5kW of the 10kW load). Gas is used for heating and hot water via a 15 year old Worcester combi-boiler - which I’m guessing is nearing end of life. Our gas usage is fairly low, but I’m looking to reduce that next, from the current 5000kWh per year (more when we have a cold winter). I'm not planning on replacing the gas boiler, meaning we'd be 100% reliant on electricity for heating and hot water. We’re on a deemed solar export tariff, and I’m looking to use as much of the energy generated as possible. I’ve also recently begun the switch to Octopus energy to take advantage of their Agile tariff, so it might be possible to shift much of our current gas energy usage over to electricity - but what would be best for us? GSHP not an option here (small garden) ASHP may be, but I’m conscious of the effort and cost of installing Underfloor heating. Air to Air an option? Right now I’m thinking a SunAmp for the hot water, or could the Uniq 12 supply our heating and hot water? Maybe we could supplement that with and a couple of electric radiators in the lounge and bedroom to keep us warm on demand? I’m not sure if that would be what we need especially if we have a long cold winter like last year (I’m on the South Coast of England). I would be grateful for any thoughts from anyone who has done similar or knows more than I do about these things. With thanks, David. -
I know that they had lots of problems a couple of years ago. Is it worth looking at yet, or is one committing to long, cold nights mending it or tending to engineers?
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Looks like my SunampPV killed its 3rd heating element in 2 years (and second one was on the day of replacement of the 1st one). Its not burnt, still steady 17Ohm when cold, just leaking to the earth (about 260kOhm there) so RCD trips away. As Sunamp support has the usual dislike to emails / catch-me-if-you-can phone attitude - does anyone know if it is stock item or... its Sunamp special? Quick check shows its 2800W HLP version from https://www.tuerk-hillinger.com/products/ - but ones in their catalogue only go up to 1000W At his point I'm thinking that Willis inside is a bit undersized / prone to overheating, so... would the control board cope with 3kW/11-inch element in an external one? Don't want to hack it... but if this is the way to keep it working, so be it. I really like it, when it works.
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Hi. Firstly, not sure this is the correct place to post... never seen so many sub-forums in my life.... We're building a 245m2 passive(ish) house this year. South facing, plenty of solar gain when need (bris soleil and external blinds to minimise when not wanted). https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/9228-hi-icf-project-in-holywood/ We're in a town and on mains gas, so it seems by far the most logical source of energy for heating and hot water. As much as I want to de-carbonise, a heat pump doesn't make sense in our case. So, that part is sorted. As we'll have triple glazing, ICF walls, large thermal mass, high air tightness, our energy demand will be low. I don't see the point in spending thousands installing a central heating system. Plus we'll have a wood burner - will be rarely used, so not fussed if there's a back boiler on it. Our initial PHPP assessment attached. I'm thinking plumbed towel rads in wet rooms and maybe 2kw post heaters (3x 150mm - one for each level - each with own control e.g. central warm water heater) Any issues with the above? Would also consider electric under tile heating mats for the master en-suite for my other half's chronically cold feet... My main query is hot water.... there's just the two of us and we both travel a lot for work so we've no regular routine. We have a combi boiler in our house which is great.... but hate the long delay for hot water to come out of the tap and the massive pressure and flow drops when somebody else flushes a toilet or turns on a tap. So I'm ruling that out. I'm also planning on a 3-4KW PV system with solar diverter to provide hot water in the summer... so that means some sort of storage. What are my options? In summary, we need instant DHW on demand, high flow rates, low running cost, heatable by gas and PV. Thernal store, unvented HW cylinder or sunamp type storage? Really unsure!!! Thanks
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Guys A bit of a post as a "heads up". I was fitting my replacement controllers today (both my Sunamps are being replaced, a story for another day) and nearly forgot to do something pretty fundamentally important. The reason for this post is that I could easily see a busy plumber/sparky/installer completing missing this. Let me explain firstly with some pictures. Here's the controller as supplied by Sunamp: For simplicity I've removed the lid and the earthing fly lead which is screwed to the back panel (you can see the screw just below the contactor bottom right). Then here's the wiring diagram which is on the back of the lid and also printed in the manual: So as per the title the thing we need to be focusing on is earthing. You will note that the diagram shows the earthing connection across the three live blocks and then back (assumably to the case?) BUT and it's a BIG but. Look again at the controller image the earth wiring is NOT there. Nowhere in the manual does it tell you that its your responsibility to make these connections for the earthing. As far as I can see if you were to fail to make these connections the Sunamp unit itself and the controller case would not be earthed.
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Hi All, I temporarily commissioned my sunamp a few weeks ago, followed the instructions and was happy it was all working as it should. Now I have it wired up in a permanent arrangement, switching the solar through a time clock as I have no PV installed yet. I have an electrical meter on it to measure use. The problem is that now it doesn’t take any current and even when I run preheated hot water through it I’m getting cold water out. Hoping to move in next week with SWMBO and two toddlers next week and one more on the way??. So hot water must be going!! Thanks in advance, Ed
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I met with the Architect last week and ran into a problem. I've always been keen on using SunAmp with Solar PV as my preferred heating/hot water platform. I'm building a small 108m2 house so it's a good fit in my opinion. However....Building Control legislation has changed in recent years and I've to "opt in" to keep the bank happy. This means hands off first fix basically including MVHR that I was looking forward to installing. Anyway, that aside there's no registered installers in ROI for SunAmp and therefore no one can sign off such a system. Andy in SunAmp has been very clear on this point and even with the Amazing Nick willing to design and provide support I doubt any builder here will accept this risk and one I've just spoken to voiced his concerns. I've to go out to tender soon and don't want this to blow up on me! There are two likely heating options in my house at the minute: ASHP with underfloor, towel rails etc and hot water tank etc, no solar PV Solar PV and SunAmp UniQ to do the same without the hot water tank My plan was to live with SunAmp for a year and get an ASHP later if required. The more likely scenario is I get an ASHP and add SunAmp later (!) and possibly end up not using the ASHP afterwards! Well, I'll use it to recharge the SunAmp (ideally with a high temp ASHP unit) but it's the additional combined cost that I'd rather not spend. And retrofitting a SunAmp after a commissioned system is built and signed off isn't the route I'd prefer to go. One option I was wondering about was what the minimum heating system I can get away with that leaves me open to easily incorporating a SunAmp shortly after building control is signed off? Maybe an instant electrical hot water heater and a few two bar fires? But then there's DEAP (SAP equivalent) to contend with. Anyway, thought I'd throw this to the experts here and see if I'm stoking a fire to burn myself in or not?!! Thanks!
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I've had my as designed SAP report done and I'm wondering whether it's worth querying the figures or whether it doesn't matter in the slightest. The house isn't designed to PHPP but is an energy efficient build with passive slab; it has lots of glazing. The as designed score is coming in at 84. From what I can see, the chap doesn't understand that I have a pcm thermal store; in fact, he has assumed no thermal store whatsoever as I told him that I wouldn't have a hot water cylinder and sent him info on the sunamp instead. From looking at the figures, it assumes that all heating is electric (correct) and when not powered by PV, will be at a standard electricity day time tariff. The figures also appear to include a whole host of thermal bridges, including sills, lintels and the intermediate floor. Am I making a fuss about nothing?
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Hi, I'm not entirely sure if this post belongs here but there are several components that I think I should consider as part of one solution: Heating and Hot Water. You may be familiar with my project from the introductions forum but I'll present you with my circumstances in any case. I currently have a Combi Boiler heating our traditionally constructed 2700sq.ft bungalow and providing hot water to 2 showers (right now we use 14000 kWh Electricity and 48907 kWh Gas per annum!). We will be updating the current building with thicker loft insulation and better windows, but will still use rads to heat this portion of the house when we complete the renovation. The new part of the house will add around 6000sq.ft and will be built to much better u values using ICF walls and SIPS roof. Here's where I'm confused, I don't know what the best system will be that can provide loads of hot water (7 showers), heat UFH in the new part and also heat the rads in the old part. I'm further confused by mhrv, I've heard this is a necessity in ICF homes, but then heard the speaker at the homebuilding show at NEC state that they're pointless for homes over a certain size. I'm open to installing an ASHP but I'm not sure whether it's necessary or even beneficial when I have the option of mains gas. Lastly, I've a good size roof pointing SE without any shading to speak of so we could potentially generate a considerable amount electricity, but I would have to consider the regulations of having a system over 4kWh and the costs associated, also factoring potential battery storage over and above Sunamp if this too makes sense to use. I don't have a clue where the feed in tariff comes in to all this! There will also be a detached annexe of around 800sq.ft and we will most likely go with UFH and 1 shower, I'm not sure how this should be incorporated in to the overall scheme or whether I should treat it separate. I know its probably a good idea to speak with an energy solutions firm and will most likely speak with Stratford Energy Solutions who have been recommended to me, however, I also know that they may have commercial interests that don't take in to account all of the factors we self builders consider.
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Hi everyone, The names AndyT and I work for Sunamp Ltd. - will not be selling on the forum but if you need information or advice I would be pleased to try and help. I have been in the renewables industry for 10 years - my 4 bed detached home with 4 adults is in W-s-M (hard water area) is used by Sunamp as a live test house. Robert Llewyllen (Fully Charged) filmed at my home - you can see the episode here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9upXeTMHUqE Economy measures added to this house originally built by Second City are; cavity wall insulation, 300mm of loft insulation, all external doors and windows upgraded, 3.5kWp Solar PV with excess generation diverted into a 5kWh SunampPV heat battery pre-heating hot water into an Intergas ECO RF30 with weather compensation and in-comfort control. My Miele dishwasher is fed with pre-heated water, I have Economy 10 off-peak and have monthly direct debits of £35 for electric and £10 for gas. You can view my dashboard here http://wattson.energyhive.com/dashboard/AndyT lots of interesting data. Also just started testing OpenTRV / Radbots and Loop energy monitoring. Looking forward to chatting. Kind regards. AndyT.
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For those interested apparently tonight's episode on grand designs has a Sunamp system in the project
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Hey there everyone, my name is Elliot Wilson and I am the current Technical Blog writer for Sunamp. I am with Sunamp for 12 weeks as part of an internship. During my research into the company I have found posts from the CEO (Andrew Bissell) on the predecessor to this forum, ebuild.com. I am hoping to start up discussions with people who were engaged with Andrew previously. Notable users include: jsharris, recoveringacademic, DamonHD, ProDavie, SteamyTea, notnickclegg and Nickfromwales, among others. I am also hoping to post articles that will be published on the Sunamp webpage. I have been talking to one of the moderators, have been informed of forum policy and have familiarised myself with the T and C's. If I still transgress any rules please let me know. Articles have already written and so it is just a matter of when I want to post them. Article details include: phase change material (SunampPV, latent heat) vs alternative thermal storage (water tanks, sensible heat), a case study of an employees house who has data analysis software which monitors things such as exported, stored and generated electricity amongst other things and (slightly unrelated to Sunamp) a comparison of the Tesla Powerwall 2 vs the Sonnen Eco 8. There will be more. Any questions people want to ask they can contact me through this. Cheers Elliot
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Hi All, We are eventually beginning to make real progress on our new house (after 2+ years in planning) The site has been cleared, layers of stone installed and the Kore ESP for the foundation has been delivered. The ESP will be laid next week with the required ducts and drainage installed ready for the slab to be poured. (the frame, a SIPS with cellulose is 80% complete and the windows and doors have been ordered). We are aiming for passive levels of insulation and airtightness, South facing un-shaded. No stoves. Our house is large approx 400sqm plus double attached garage. 5 bed with 2 ensuite, a main bathroom, additional shower room and a small WC. So 5 showers, 1 bath (young children so currently 1 bath per day). Shower use 3 per day. Occasional guests so need capacity for that. So we should need very little heat and could likely do without bar a few small electric heaters but we will put in UFH pipes (in the grand scheme of things this is a very low cost). But what do we do to provide the small amount of heat to the UFH and more importantly heat our DHW? and how much is it likely to cost both to install and to run? Options under consideration: Mono block ASHP + UVC (perhaps 400 litre) issues legionella Split ASHP + Sunamp stack (6X2) LPG gas boiler with UVC (and buffer for UFH) We are in Northern Ireland so no RHI and PV is no longer cost effective (vs E7 electricity) A gas boiler is likely to have the lowest capital cost and should be good for 20 years, I'm not sure how long an ASHP would last, long enough to justify its cost? I'm attracted to the Sunamp system but it is very 'capital heavy' and if the ASHP fails or needs expensive maintenance then I would be better just going with a gas boiler, but the Sunamp would be better placed to accept PV input if they become cost effective. All opinions welcome,
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Hi everyone, I'm a "mature" retired electronic/electrical design engineer come computer networking consultant come PH self builder. See following link for existing building details. http://passivhausprojekte.de/#k_4186 Currently designing second PH for construction in Brinkworth, on Woodbridge park golf course. Build commences 2nd August. Also designing next door neighbours from PHPP perspective. Scandanavian Lodge design ( planning requirement), Isoquick insulated raft foundation, Beco ICF walls (polstyrene lego bricks according to my wife!), attic trussed warm roof. Approx. 240m2 and 550m3 gross including voids which are within thermal and airtight envelope. Techie bit. Hmm.. The intension was to have very similar to current house as it works well! However no mains gas so all electric. MVHR to be a Paul Novus 300 with Lindab rigid safe ducting, silencers etc. Thermal store to be Akva Nero 750l (current house has Akvaterm std tank of 500l with top and bottom DHW coils giving up to 35l per min). Change of size result of no mains gas and probable use of Eco7 electric to supplement Solar PV via Immersun PWM switch to two high temp immersions. Space heating via VEAB CCW 125-6-2.5 in living area duct branch only - no active heating to bedrooms. Summer active cooling via VEAB CWK 125-6-2.5 in bedroom ducting only or VEAB CWK 160-6-2.5 for all areas... 3kW ASHP air to water supplying the VEAB CWK. Secondary DHW loop to provide "instant" hot water to all areas with little potted water wastage (as per current house). Well that was the plan until I discovered Sunamp and Zehnder Comfocool Q600! So undecided now although no apparent pricing/availability of Sunamp Stack.... Sunamp PV 5kW units look good but only a fraction of the capacity of a 750l TS. Multiple units look very expensive by comparison. However, need to make a decision soon I guess.......
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