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Or if you have a bit of air tightness tape you could tape the 75mm together then have a bit of ducting just larger than 75mm internal and tape that over the join.

I had 22mm instead of recommended 28mm on a 10m run. Extra pump was fitted at the hot water tank. Seems to work fine. Might even have worked fine without.

Just go for the cheapest! You will not notice any difference.

I’d take it down myself

For OP - if going for hydraulic lime it is crucial to wet the wall properly first. In hot weather that means soaking the wall with a hose, get the mix on and probably wet the wall again prior to laying on. You will be amazed how quickly the wall will dry out after being soaked.

Please don’t use hydrated lime and sand - it won’t set. I would definitely use NHL 3.5 not hydrated/cement myself. ratio 3:1 sand:lime if your chap is fine to take a bit of time to do it should be fine.

By sand lime do you mean sand and NHL ? If so, it’s simply not true that it won’t set. If it’s cold and damp it can take a while to set but in conditions like this it will set much faster. to the OP. I would contend that the builder has never actually used a lime render and be worried about presenting him with hydraulic lime to get on with. It’s not actually much harder than sand/cement rendering but takes a bit more care as it needs to be kept damp after application (getting the hose out and spraying the walls every day for a few days). also unlike with cement render you don’t really want to apply the finish coat the day after the scratch coat so would have a to wait a few days (depending on how much it has gone of). Probably a reason why builders like using cement, they can move on to the next job quicker. can’t speak to putty as I haven’t really used it for rendering. But if you go for NHL I would use 3.5 not 2. what sand have you got? You say you have plastering sand - not all is the same. Is it very fine or does it have some sharpness to it? (I’d want it not to be too fine)

Well depends how low you go. I think mine are about 150mm below the surface

I set a couple below the surface of the lawn. I know where they are if I need to get to them even if it probably wouldn’t pass building control!

It’s impressive what a load of (s)crap you talk sometimes

What is its purpose? To separate the sub base from what’s under? Ok but is that really needed. to stop weeds growing? Nothings coming up through a sub base, mortar layer and slabs? If anything it will be sown from above in cracks in the grout lines.

I wouldn’t bother. Not very helpful if you have already bought it!

No idea. I’d just crack on

In my experience frame fixing screws don’t have quite as wide a thread so maybe they don’t have quite the same ‘grip’ as a normal wood screw. that said I would just use them as I’m sure they will be fine. Don’t use the plastic part. You should be able to feel how effective they are once you get going.

Pretty sure the volumes moved by MVHR aren’t any way near enough to redistribute heat in the way you are hoping.

If you are going for ripping up existing floor why wouldn’t you go for 200mm? Extra cost upfront but if you really want low temp Ufh then I would go for it. No brainer in any new build sections. Isn’t the minimum floor value for new build floor 0.13 anyway?

I tried to find the dislike button but sadly there wasn’t one

It’s all in the sub base!

My Brickie has used used lime and cement in the past and both have been fine. He now swears by resin and used that for the last patio I had done. Just brushed in and then goes off so less mess and easier to use is why he likes it. Seems fine so far! this sort of stuff https://jointit.com/products/joint-it-simple/

Definitely try at a lower speed and see what works. Is there no controller/switch for different speeds?

From memory about 800mm long by 300mm by 400mm . This is with 150mm eps semi rigid ducting. Think I used the plastic connectors that are used with the eps ducting and taped them to the osb.

Do you have a sound attenuator on the supply side (extract as well)? this is what is needed to reduce the sound from the vents. I made my own for my first project and that worked very well. Basically an osb box with sound rockwool batts on the inside (with batts sticking out into the middle to disrupt the airflow - large enough to allow enough airflow). Second project I bought an attenuator (just cylinder with sound absorption ) and it hasn’t been as good as the one I made. I didn’t have a problem with noise from the machine itself - most of the noise was coming through the vents.

I bought an old Jcb 3cx which proved reliable luckily and is useful for many things I have going on. Not the best for precision trenching though. Had access to small diggers for some things. but….. you can get a lot done quickly with the right equipment and a good operator and I had an old boy who used to do groundwork’s help out and it was invaluable. If you don’t have a use for the machine post build and have a clear plan of what you want to do I would be tempted to hire someone in if you can find someone good.

Pretty sure you can get fire rated plasterboard to bring that down. It’s the pink plasterboard I think.

Well putting a fabric over the mot before laying will be more than pointless - actively negative. mortar needs something to bind to.