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In my experience frame fixing screws don’t have quite as wide a thread so maybe they don’t have quite the same ‘grip’ as a normal wood screw. that said I would just use them as I’m sure they will be fine. Don’t use the plastic part. You should be able to feel how effective they are once you get going.

Pretty sure the volumes moved by MVHR aren’t any way near enough to redistribute heat in the way you are hoping.

If you are going for ripping up existing floor why wouldn’t you go for 200mm? Extra cost upfront but if you really want low temp Ufh then I would go for it. No brainer in any new build sections. Isn’t the minimum floor value for new build floor 0.13 anyway?

I tried to find the dislike button but sadly there wasn’t one

It’s all in the sub base!

My Brickie has used used lime and cement in the past and both have been fine. He now swears by resin and used that for the last patio I had done. Just brushed in and then goes off so less mess and easier to use is why he likes it. Seems fine so far! this sort of stuff https://jointit.com/products/joint-it-simple/

Definitely try at a lower speed and see what works. Is there no controller/switch for different speeds?

From memory about 800mm long by 300mm by 400mm . This is with 150mm eps semi rigid ducting. Think I used the plastic connectors that are used with the eps ducting and taped them to the osb.

Do you have a sound attenuator on the supply side (extract as well)? this is what is needed to reduce the sound from the vents. I made my own for my first project and that worked very well. Basically an osb box with sound rockwool batts on the inside (with batts sticking out into the middle to disrupt the airflow - large enough to allow enough airflow). Second project I bought an attenuator (just cylinder with sound absorption ) and it hasn’t been as good as the one I made. I didn’t have a problem with noise from the machine itself - most of the noise was coming through the vents.

I bought an old Jcb 3cx which proved reliable luckily and is useful for many things I have going on. Not the best for precision trenching though. Had access to small diggers for some things. but….. you can get a lot done quickly with the right equipment and a good operator and I had an old boy who used to do groundwork’s help out and it was invaluable. If you don’t have a use for the machine post build and have a clear plan of what you want to do I would be tempted to hire someone in if you can find someone good.

Pretty sure you can get fire rated plasterboard to bring that down. It’s the pink plasterboard I think.

Well putting a fabric over the mot before laying will be more than pointless - actively negative. mortar needs something to bind to.

True! My bad

Looks like a warm loft to me. I think you would be alright sitting the unit on top of some rubber as you suggest. That is what I did. Noise is more of an issue from the ducts than the machine but maybe that depends on different machines.

Anyone got any tips for cheap building insurance for an old building (originally built 1820)?! just finished a small barn conversion (2 bed) and getting quotes for buildings only insurance of £1100! it’s a stone/brick construction , tiled roof. apparently there is a threshold of 1850 before which they enter a different category.

In my experience they never work as well as you would hope!

Interesting - I spoke to an epc producer and they said that technically MVHR counted the epc down (I think about 5 points) which surprised me. this is offset in part by the advantage in having a better air tightness test. But he said the reason was the energy gained by heat exchange was generally less than the energy to run the MVHR. Maybe model of MVHR can affect this as well.

Thanks Simon. Pretty sure it is all sorted and the relevant paperwork in place. Should know later today after BC come round.

Actually just found the completed version in an email from the company that I did the overall install with. Sorted.

Thanks Dave - will have a look and see if I can find/download it

I asked my plumber for the G3 compliance certificate for an ASHP install with unvented cylinder and he has sent me certificate showing he is proficient with unvented water systems for Bpec. is that what building control will want to see? I was presuming it would be a certificate that was specific to my install.

So the epc and sap are separate things? I had an ashp install that had all the energy demands calculated - would the company that did that effectively have a sap report for the property? Wondering if it is worth chasing them up to see if I can get a copy!

Do you have a contact for him? do you know what is a typical charge for an epc for a new build (actually a 70m2 barn conversion)? or is that a slightly different thing that needs SAP calculations?

Surely you can temporarily take the ducts off so that you can rule them out as a problem

They are still there if you look closely. Render finishes a bit higher