jfb

Any recommendations? For me ideally it would be able to reverse for cooling and have simple controls in the 5kw range.

Normally Mvhr doesn’t move enough volume of air to be considered useful in heat redistribution.

No, I often get called by landlords to pat test a brand new item. But Temp is still right?

Is it not a regulation to have an accessible 3 pole isolator? If so how do you keep tenants from it?

I always thought this whole thread is a weird form of therapy for us all!

Ask Zoot?

When I get a chance I’ll check it is still working - interesting I had assumed it is working but I guess it is possible it’s not.

I’ve got an issue with mould growth in a Brink Mvhr unit. The extract fan has considerable mould on it. None in the ductwork/ manifold before it. The extract vents upwards (not ideal I know no) to a pitched roof cowl. So I presume the wet warmer air is condensing near the roofline and coming back down into the Mvhr unit. The ductwork is all insulated/eps ducting. the unit has been installed for about 5 years. I had the same problem when I last took it apart for a proper clean and I had to remove similar mould from the fan. I can see some mould in the heat exchanger on the extract side as well. given that both supply and extract go upwards through the roof can anyone suggest anything to help with the situation? More insulation around the duct to roof cowl?

Having a bit of bother with the main water in to a barn conversion. I think the leak is from the stopcock - not from the compression joints but where the tap section (sorry don’t know technical term!) meets the main bit. See the picture where my finger is pointing. is that a likely place for a leak (stopcock is brand new)? I’ve tried tightening it but not sure I can go any more but there still seems to be a little leak. Any suggestions?

it was a cheap shot I admit- I don't have a magic solution! But it really does seem poor for a scheme that already has low supplier take up to be a really slow payer to the suppliers.

It appears that suppliers are having big problems getting paid months after the work has been done - is it yet another quality government outsourcing success! https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2021/jan/28/green-homes-grant-uk-standards-body-calls-on-government-to-pay-up

boards should be glued down and screwed. expanding PU glue ideally. think there are some spray foams designed for this job as well. this sort of thing - https://www.stick2products.co.uk/products/chipstick-d4-liquid-pu-foaming-chipboard-adhesive

Seriously Zoot - just do what Dave has asked multiple times and turn all radiators off but a rad in a cold room. Make sure you have temperature readings of that room so you know the current baseline (both room temp and rad temp as good as you can). Compare with how the temperature measurements you get when only this rad is getting heat. Report back to us with the figures before and after. It really is easy to do and pretty quick to get the results back. I wouldn't start any process of 'going up the chain' (which I understand you are loathe to do) until you have done this.

I think it is fair to say that there are a lot of us on here struggling with this!

Ok ok. Understand that. In fact thats the first reply ive understood in ages. Apart from being called a c@@@. I understood that. So if you have understood maybe you could actually have a go at what he is suggesting! turn all rads down except for a cold room and see what temperature the room and radiator get .

Or, install the door as you want. When it comes to final inspection take the whole door off and put back when they’ve left!

So , third time lucky - have you checked if the rad valves on the warmer rooms are fully open?

Ubink do a bunch of different ones. http://www.ubbink.co.uk/products/Roofing/Roof-vents-terminals.aspx

So I bought a toilet seat, came to fit it and can't seem to work out if it is just a poor design. In the picture you can see that the level of the pin into which the toilet seat bracket fits is higher than the bracket itself. So if I fit it the seat will not be resting flat onto the toilet bowl - just the front will be resting on the toilet and all the weight at the back will be on the bracket (not the white spacer/support on the left of the picture). Is it just another poor design?

Zoot - I can understand your misunderstanding of the phrase 'balance the radiators' since it is open to misinterpretation. What I can't understand is how you react once it became clear that you didn't understand it right - if I realized I did not understand something I would, as Declan suggested, do a quick google search and do a little work myself to find out what it meant. If after doing that you still don't understand sure go ahead and ask for an explanation here. Some things are more complicated to make sense of but I think after a little research in your own time (minutes only of it) you would have understood. All too often you expect someone here to explain things to you when you could be doing some of the leg work yourself. Rant over! So - have you found out if the radiator valves in the warm rooms are fully open?

You’ll be back Peter. Everyone always comes back!

Imagine two rooms with the same radiator size in each room. One room is large and one small. if both rad valves are open fully then they should both get to an equal temperature. But since one room is much smaller it will heat up much quicker and be a much warmer room (assuming similar insulation values). So, in order to get both rooms to a similar temperature you turn the rad valve down in the smaller room so more of the heat being provided by the boiler/ASHP goes to the rad in the larger room. This rad will be hotter in order to ‘balance’ the system. Of course it is normal to account for room size when deciding on radiator size so my example is a bit extreme but hopefully you get the point. So for your house it would be normal when trying to balance the system to turn the rad valves right down on any rooms that are getting warm and making sure the cold rooms have fully open valves. You should notice a difference in temperature between the rads once the heating has been on a while. In the workshop (which gets warm I believe) can you tell us how open the rad valve is (fully open, 75%, 50% or whatever)?

I have a burner and Mvhr and it works fine. Burners are much more efficient than an open fire - why the insistence on it?

I can see how a plastic plug will hold the insulation to the wall but what is securing the battens?

i like the shower with high drain - akin to the swimming pool foot wash!