Jenki

The fuse is to protect the cable. So why do you need to step down? If the cable is large enough for 80amp protection then off you go. Or are you saying that your worked out load is insufficient for 80A? I live rural. Three houses connected to the transformer. I've got 100A supply installed when they were installing they pulled the fuse at the post. I asked how big the fuse was.. 100A .

@Iceverge. Thanks for the effort in the answer above. the above out weighs my Pro's.. I didn't have the ability to model the core temp, and this was a concern. Thanks again... The decision to move to ICF was made with a few factors, the major one being that our location dictates difficulty and cost getting materials to site. with ICF, its one delivery and no extras for the house structure. When getting costs together - £400 / £800 for delivery of bulk items was common or use someone more local and pay a massive premium. getting EPS around Inverness is difficult as nobody stocks it. the reason - "you cant use that up here its too cold." Another factor is the inherent Airtightness. We regularly see 20 /30 MPH winds throughout the year, and the solid feel of concrete appeals. I wanted to stick build on site, but when I was doing my costings the ICF route was not too more expensive when you add in the insulation varieties, membrane and tapes and deliveries. MY ICF blocks and extra insulation is 9.5K, 2K of rebar and 6K of concrete including slab. for 90Sq M. Lastly I'm too slow to lay blocks, and my budget doesn't have external labour, so it has to be in my skill set.

Resurrecting this question with a specific build. I'm building with ICF poly steel blocks. the blocks as standard are 65mm EPS 150 concrete and 65mm EPS. to improve the U value I will be attaching Extra insulation. the question is should this be internal or external. I'm leaning towards IWI for the following reasons: The build will be cold roof, so if I go internal I save around 25SqM insulation on the gables The external cladding will be more secure as the battens are fixed through a thinner section of EPS I can insulate before any internal walls are built, and thus making airtight is easier. I can still screw the plasterboard through the IWI & into the metal webs of the ICF Property heated with UFH We are in the Highlands - so do not have to worry (just hope) about external temperatures getting too hot. The above goes against a lot of the recommendations above, but as its new build some of the reasons can be worked around? Would appreciate any thoughts TIA

NO. 🙊 not sure where I got 35A from. so as you said it is around 20-22A cable is ok to 27A @lakelandfolk. Please ignore my brain fart above..

I'm not there yet. but , in this post that is the idea. I'm currently looking into this as I will have two locations that use power, and the meter is in a third place. separated by 70M.

also the option of wireless signals

5KW is around 35amp on mains 240 voltage. 2.5mm Sq cable can take around 25Amp load so yes to both.

As @ProDave says, that's bigger than my planned house. On the scale your talking purchasing a digger/ and possibly dumper is the way to go if you have the time. A skilled operator does make a difference so if time is a key commodity then this is a good solution. If you look at major builders they don't use turf cutters, they use 360's and dozers. Because it's what they do. 100%. The counter to this is when your budget isn't flexible or enough😂. That's when looking at problems from left field is sometimes the only option, so to this end @Pabbles I salute you. But I respectfully suggest you scratch turf cutter off your list for groundworks.

I seem to remember that @Russell griffiths would have some constructive discussion points about leylandii.

Looks a great job. You might want to add some across the top to minimise the chance of plaster cracking, but that's belt and braces.

Its usually rust from steel radiators, plus mechanical wear from pumps etc. its surprising to see how much can be "stuck" to the magnet when cleaning them.

A lot of people on here have rigged up a fan and done a pressure test prior to plastering etc. you can go around with a smoke pencil and seal as much as you can before its all covered up, maybe an option for you to look at?

some are a little easier to install, clean etc, but the principle of the cheap vs the expensive are the same, and a cheap one is better than none.

makes me sad, and angry, your options are very limited if you don't want to take boards down. I fear your results will be average at best. The actions you have taken to seal as best you can is all I can think of, just keep trying.

DIY able? a competent hands on person should be ok and if you've done GRP -well, then this will be a walk in the park . there is some very good guides @ EPDM tutorials. a lot of the info in that lot is what they use on the course.

Assuming this is cold loft, then if your looking for low ACH, then the issues need fixing properly. Is this a new build or refurb.

No. You need to fix the air barrier with tapes etc. Was the electrician informed of the importance of the membrane? If so ask him to rectify the situation.

Whatever you do come up with, if you find a good solution for drying gloves/ hats / boots etc..that doesn't involve bringing them into an already high moisture atmosphere (static caravan) then I'm listening. We built our "utility block" so we have a dry storage area, but heating it to dry gloves etc seems such a waste.... Until, that is you come to put them on the next day.💦❄️.

I would be interested. Especially at the 1.2 /1.5k price point

The timer is variable. So could do 5mins on and off. Good to hear this is already a thing...

This has been discussed on here before. My treatment plant runs 24/7. That is the Compressor runs 24/7. I have read that switching it off there is a chance that water can syphon up the air tubes. SO I was wondering if I was to turn it on and off hourly I would reduce the risk of any damage by syphoning and reduce the running costs by 50% We have a large plant 12P and currently only 2 people using it. when the cabins are fully occupied then this may jump but the reality I only ever see 6/8 people max every day. (it was sized by SEPA- I had no choice) I have found this little board that does what I need, turn on for x time, turn off for x time repeat. any thought on this as a plan would be appreciated. The setup would be temp, until the house is built then I may come up with a better solution but for now the treatment plant is plugged in, so was going to put this in line just after the plug.

In my dealings with BC they like the main flow to be on the bottom so that it cleans any incoming from the branches. I don't see any issues with your suggestion, if anything it's removed some 45's so a good thing. It doesn't stop the s**t getting clogged in the joint though. I tend to think when using the rubber couplers it's better to have a bigger gap between the two pipes i.e. don't try to butt them up. The space will afford some self cleaning.

@Mulberry ViewThey call this a rocker joint, the idea being that there is some flex as the pipe passes through the concrete to allow for settlement etc. I agree it doesn't make for a smooth drain. However I was watching a film on YouTube by Wavin, ( it actually had Tony Cottee as a presenter) Anyway they used a standard joint either side of the footing, which seems a better solution. Maybe ask BC if this would be acceptable to them? Found it. 2min 39

Trend do a nice hinge jig, coupled with a 1/4" router and you can do the door and frame hinges. I've also got Souber DBB 5 Minute Morticer JIG1 Door Lock Mortiser Kit 19mm 22mm 25mm https://amzn.eu/d/d5kd3BB That is good for door locks both tubular latches and 5 lever locks/bathroom locks. I've never found anything good for the latch plate on the frame though. So that's spade bits and sharp chisels. I tend to buy latches that have the large catch plate as these tend to be the depth of the rebate, so it looks cleaner.

Opps - yep TerryE