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Jenki

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Everything posted by Jenki

  1. You snooze you lose😂
  2. This might be of use.
  3. Yep. I did a shop refit, and the main contractor was adamant everything was banded for his insurance. Looks good, but once the ceiling grid and tiles went up, no one cares. I found later he used a lot of the banding to hang the grid from🙈
  4. It's seems, like most things electrical, views differ. My NAPIT 18th edition update course , and my annual inspector seemed to suggest it's a must, but I knew of other NAPIT areas where it was little more relaxed. It seems like @Mattg4321 experience with NICEIC was a little more relaxed also. I carried on clipping with plastic clips as I always have and then added loops of galvanised banding every few meters and my inspector was happy with this. On the course, the example given was firemen regularly rip down plasterboard to ensure fire is out, and the idea was to prevent the cable entangling the fire brigade. May be an urban myth, but for me to be keep my Part P ticket it needed addressing.🤷
  5. Hi @Nickfromwales, This may be semantics but the point I was trying to make was if you apply a waterproof paint to a bath / shower then I still wouldn't class that as tanked, waterproof yes, but without the shower tray or bath the area is not waterproof, thus in my terminology not "tanked" Where as if you "Tank" a room with either a liquid and tape, or full membrane, the room/ area would be waterproof before tiling. The later won't be achieved for £40. (As the drain would cost more than £40.) I think we agree it should be done, just terminology, and there's no way you tanked a wet room cheaply (£40) I which is what the OP was questioning.
  6. Very true. It's a difficult task on both sides.
  7. I think the word "Tanking" can be confusing. There are products that can "tank" wet rooms and are more expensive, and there is paint on waterproofing membranes that, as @Conor mentioned will cost around £40. It makes sense to use this product around a bath especially shower over bath situations, but I wouldn't class this as tanked.
  8. Always makes me laugh that customers think builders should spend hours of thier own time for free, making a project cheaper for them.
  9. I've just had a quote through for this system. It's a 90sqm house and the quote was 6.8k plus Vat and this excludes ducting. So it's fairly expensive solution.
  10. You need to build in ( i.e. take down a small section of wall and add cavity trays). These will take any water from the cavity back to the outside.
  11. If you buy from appliances direct. You need to tell them who you are using. They give you a list in your area to select from. Just select one. And when it arrives call them to install 😉
  12. @Mattg4321, not specific to me means all. I.e everywhere. Same as the Installation of Insulated plasterboards are required to have mechanical fixings to the top to prevent them from detaching during a fire. This is the same, during a fire firemen would rip plasterboard down to ensure it's all wet. This is to prevent the cables trapping firemen (fire persons). NAPIT were insistent, as I think NICEIC?. Between rafters I use clips and back it up with galvanised strap band. quick, easy and cheap.
  13. @Mattg4321 Are you sure? BS7671 18th edition, has requirements for fire protection. "All cables throughout an installation (not just in escape routes) should be secured with fire resistant cable supports and fixings, i.e. fully metallic cable clips, ties, and fixings, including within plastic cable management systems."
  14. I still think it is wise to use a vacuum pump. Otherwise you would dilute the gas with the air in the pipe? Also chance of adding moisture at the same time. Or am I missing something ? I only installed the heat pumps about 2 months ago and I used the vacuum pump. Not got any data yet on the electriQ models yet.
  15. Anybody want a bet that there's a joint under this plastic,😬 Just seems a bit suspicious Edit. Noticed the pipe has moved so hopefully it's not a joint🤞
  16. I contacted a lot, and a lot didn't get back to me🤔. In the end I've opted for PolySteel. I prefer the metal webs holding it all together. Yes there is some more cold bridge, but less chance of bursts. In addition they prepared the structural calcs and rebar schedule in the price. The standard blocks are not efficient enough so you need either IWI or EWI. @Iceverge did some thermal calcs and EWI wins. My project is just shy of 90SqM With around 140sqm of blocks including 1 row underground. Around 9k plus vat and delivery incl EWI to get 0.16U.
  17. At this price, you might as well buy a meter box for £65.
  18. I fitted a Telefunken in the blog @Radian linked. I've also fitted 2 9000 BTU electriQ in some cabins I built. The latter have had little use yet but are much better than Telefunken. I bought the vacuum pump for around £90.
  19. 🙈. Pointers @ProDave mentions safe zones. All that trunking/ conduit is a mess. And I foresee issues for plasterboarding. All the cables in the ceiling should be secured with fire rated clips / straps to stop them dangling down in the event of a fire. ( And like they are now.) All the diagonal cables between the joists scream i'm going to save £1.50 on cable to use on another job. I'd be stunned if this is a pro spark and not the jobbing builder who's going to get his mate to sign it off? If not in Scotland you have Part P to satisfy for Building Control. The fact is it's all exposed so should be neat , tidy and organised. Unfortunately it's the same "quality" as the plumbing. The good thing is your here asking before it's too late. Good luck with the builder.
  20. I know the OP is getting good advice here so don't want to muddy the water but is this going to be in the screed? I won't sleep if it is.
  21. You need to check the size required. But you can get a wiska WDB7 IP65 lockable box that is 600 X 400x200 for around £40. But surface mount meter boxes are not much dearer.
  22. The black caps are covers for the frame drains. Or they let the water out if it gets in. It also looks like the paint finish is damaged in that photo?
  23. When I typed KWH I thought of you @SteamyTea. In my defence I thought this was a figure he may have easier access to.
  24. You need to look at your heat requirements now i.e. what is the requirement in KWH to keep you house warm, what is your hot water requirements etc.. how well insulated and airtight your house is. once you have figures, then you can post them on here and good advice will follow.
  25. But then you read this🙈 https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.dailyrecord.co.uk/news/scottish-news/dozens-scottish-power-wind-turbines-29135763.amp&ved=2ahUKEwjq16Tb-oX9AhWaScAKHU1aBVcQFnoECBAQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1QzYTqiR9Gjqu61EWLjSkE
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