Marvin

Well you can insulate on top and this would mean the concrete would slowly warm up to the internal space, however it maybe difficult to avoid cold spots at joins with external walls which could cause damp surfaces. May be better as you say to insulate inside. However, more clever people will know others remedies I'm sure. Best of luck M

Reading further it seems you can programme for booster to go on and off at the unit but electrical terminal LS1 seems to be an override. Good luck.

Page 27 of the manual indicates a permanent supply. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.vent-axia.com/sites/default/files/476930.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiahruBs7rwAhXGsKQKHeUpAysQFjABegQIEhAC&usg=AOvVaw3CfH1v-diGhHk3-AayMijT unless I have this wrong... .

Really I was thinking of BUDGET FIGURES. I would suggest first looking for a discussion about your work and there experience with completing such a type of project. A question I have been known to ask is : "Thank for your time, I gone through some basic details with you and I wanted to know what you thought ball park figures were for this type of project. Obviously it depends on various things, but budgets for a mid range spec build, what do you think? Were talking ball park. When we come to tendering I want to make sure its within my budget and worth you quoting." If you need, you could say that "the architect though it would be around the £100k touch is that realistic? If your really determined, what I used to do was check planning permissions for similar work in the area of your project and find the architect/ agent on the planning application and write and ask them if they could suggest any builder to approach. Not asking for a reference! just local builders who do the same sort of work. One question I would ask is: If it was your home is there any particular builders you would approach? and I wondered why they called me the Ferret.

Again a sensible thing to do. Also consider any site challenges. For example access problems, parking problems.

Forgot to say. Very good that you are considering all this now and not half way through.

If it helps, I found that the more commonplace the work the easier to cost. The more "way out" or experimental the less certainty (not that there is certainty). My experience: Example 1: Full drawings, full specification, fully costed by cost engineer and evaluated by QS. Quotes came back 27% higher. Ring round for feedback: builders all very busy and would have to engage subbies and temp staff to cover work so cost higher. Market hot. Example 2: Same but result 11% below: Contractor recently lost job he was hoping for and prepared to do the job at almost cost as long as it can be done before his team start the next big contract that they have 6 months down the line. Two different out comes. So what was wrong with the estimate? I could go on about more complicated scenarios and I'm sure other will have many fascinating examples but I hope you get my point. Finally to be 3 times over budget requires some level of unknownness (if there is such a word) : To reassure yourself, you need to analyse the reasons that happened to your friend and avoid making the same mistakes. My guess would be challenges with the groundworks or changes of plans, or the other certain spanner in the works: let's get started and we'll work out how we're going to do it when we get there. Good luck M

All the wriggling needed to make your plan work....?

You going to do it yourself then?

Very difficult. But yard sticks are best. One way may be to look for 3 builders who have done similar size and type of works who you could work with and ask them for a meet or a conversation to see what they feel a sensible budget might be. Another idea is to consider where you could compromise on cost if you had to after planning and tendering. Worked as a QS. With no detailed design and no specification, you have no chance. Even with those, QS's best estimate, are only those. Other's more clever than me will come up with better ideas I'm sure. Best of luck M

The ASHP we are about to install is an air to water type, and will heat the building and water and cool in the summer! Many different machines on the market. A lot less energy used to heat water than a whole house. We use about 3-4kW hours a day to heat the hot water for 2, whereas as the house can use 96kW hours a day to keep warm. You can obtain software I think, but I use my own spreadsheet to do the calculations. It's a lot of maths and the devil is definetly in the detail. Run it like a business. Do dummy runs. Where's your business plan? What's your budgets? You can prepare well in advance by getting systems up and running. We did a renovation of a bungalow. Received the keys at 11. Skip on site at 12. Good luck M

Welcome Scottvining. Yes an exciting time. I find the good thing about asking questions here is that you can get many choices and some clever ideas. Ah! Many memories of surfing Widemouth Bay! Our MVHR is excellent. But not without airtightness! Whilst looking for the right place I would suggest you look in great detail at all the pros and cons of each type of energy source. Looking at PV at the moment has made me aware that in winter you only produce about 1/4 of what you do in summer. We have solar thermal. I have installed trench GSHP but not here. I have realised that the ratio of these energy sources is important to get right. Well good luck with the hunting Marvin

usually caused by exposure to frost / freezing.

Hi Super JohnG. As the over hang is outside the thermal envelope, looking at the problem the only thing I can think of to do, if the fascia is too tall, is to cut part of sloping soffit side horizontal however I'm not sure this wouldn't cause you other problems. Hopefully someone comes up with a better answer. Good luck. M

Depends if there is layered clay. How deep did they dig?. I went down for my soakaway and at the bottom broke through to a sandy stony layer and the water just disappears! Pity I didn't find this before the rest was dug out!

Unless its airtight when I think it should be siliconed / mastic? I sure someone will correct me. (I siliconed mine at the bottom)

Damp appears to be going down. Is the old chimney vented at the bottom and top to allow air to pass up and out to remove the damp? Looks like absorbent brick could try a water repellent like Thompsons weather seal to reduce the absorption. And anything else some clever person knows. M

A photo would help...

the devil is still in the detail

Well I assume this is electric? Check this info: https://www.drench.co.uk/blog/how-to-guides/what-are-bathroom-electrical-zones

In that case make sure you make it old age compatible! Warm, low maintenance, low running costs, accessible both with regard to level access and facilities. All are easy included alterations during build and not noticeable (except a lift but the space for one can be prepared by avoiding putting services in that area). It all sounds nuts as you live in your beautiful home, until that time when you start struggling and don't want to leave but can't cope. M

I think things have changed. I was offered one, I believe in the last 3 years, and all they gave was about 50 days free credit which I didn't need so I declined.

shame the door couldn't open outward

Yes in my experience good insulation and airtightness is paramount. good floor insulation is also important. Easiest is when the floors are timber suspended...

Hi Does anyone have any experience of locating their ASHP on a fairly exposed flat roof? ( this side of the boiler flue. Flue going)