Marvin

Can you buy 240v 28 day 16amp timers for the immersions nowadays?

AH yes! the over 60's kick.

Having installed my own here's my plan. results good. Red= obstructions in roof space Green= air in Blue = air out HRX2 MVHR unit. The idea is to add air in all dry rooms and take out in all wet rooms, so smells and moisture hopefully go out the vent and are not dragged across the building. So from this principle you should be able to work out what you need. However, a house will need downstairs inlet/outlet vents.... unless someone knows better (not impossible). Hope this helps. Good luck. Marvin

Thanks PeterW for showing me my foolish thoughts! (The only good thing is that I'm only looking for about 4kW) Yes a few internal ASHP fitted with tanks - about £2-5k to buy on the market all heat up your bath/shower/tap water but forget trying to achieve the whole house. I note that most of the ones I looked at, I had to dig quite deep to find what the input/ output was and the result was often mired by the fact that it also had an emersion heater for those really cold or high demand moments. I note that GSHP's seem to have these as well, certainly what I have installed. Marvin

Sounds like services layouts are already on your list. ?I don't know how Airbnb works. Who pays for the energy and water used when people stay? This could also be significant to your design.

Hi Can't even begin to suggest changes without seeing the existing layout of all levels and the exist services connections and the restrictions on the building changes and even then I might not be able to suggest anything you haven't already thought of. General thoughts: Good idea to have consideration as to how the services will run from first floor to ground floor especially the soil pipes, and where the services enter the building. Make sure you decide your plan before your too far into the changes. I hate undoing my own work. ? Properties designed to make money may need to be designed and built with the purpose in mind beyond just the layout and bathrooms, for example the robustness of elements. Will the fittings survive the heavy handedness of some clumsy numpty like me? : Don't forget to allow a way to heat and or store enough hot water for all those showers, and in a tight spaced building where will that go? Before deciding your plumbing choices know your mains cold flow rate at the point it would come into the building: Three 12 litre a minute showers running and the odd loo filling up do you have the mains supplying you 36 litres every minute? The way to test is to run the water in to a large enough container that it can run full on for 1 minute then measure carefully the contents of the container. This will give you the answer as to how many litres per minute the mains can supply. (its a start but there are other things to take into consideration but I'm just giving examples of things that can muck you up a long way done the road.

https://historicengland.org.uk/advice/your-home/making-changes-your-property/types-of-work/alter-the-area-round-my-house/

If you 've got this problem then you have the wrong fuse box (sorry consumer unit)?

I would speak to neighbours who have had work done to try and find a suitable team, although this is not always going to work. I assume you have given out the architects details and the specification and details of the site and access? Another one I have used acting as a estimator for a large company trying to inspire subbies to quote was first to check they had all the information they needed, secondly 2 weeks later I would give them an out by checking up if they had the time to quote or if they were busy no problem but I only wanted to give the tender out to 3 companies so let me know if you are not going to quote because I don't want to waste your time and I can approach another builder. Of course on big jobs there was always the return date information sent with the documents. If its common work and materials than 1 month is enough to do the quote in, but if there is specialist works then 3 months upward. What I would say is communication is paramount and the more clear, helpful information you supply the easier to quote. Limit / make choices about as many items as you can. Best of luck M

I'm not sure if this is right or wrong I was just looking at the Valliant layout showing 9r isolating valves before 10i the flexible pipes (flexible pipes to reduce vibration down pipes and to stop metal fatigue due to the vibrating of the unit). Here's page 3 with the key:

Basically longer than you are prepared to wait. You can always pick up the phone and ask if there is any further information they required, however, when I get about 12 months ahead or booked up in the next spring for work requiring groundworks I think there is no point in quoting. Sorry. So many things will have changed by then material prices for a start and the client has probably gone elsewhere. What do you do spend your time pricing work for no pay or get on earning money for the work in front of you. I am only a small builder but that is how I work (except I usually discuss the situation - not always though). The only exception for me is repeat clients who I have a good working relationship with, and they with me.

That's wording I have not heard before! Reading it I thought it meant things the sellers had to do/not do so the buyer would agree to buy - like fence off the land being sold from the rest of the field. ? M

did you find the answer to this problem?

Hi Bruno Sorry if I missed this but are there isolating valves on the pipework outside the building just before the wall mounted unit?

Hi Bruno. Yes Rockwool really good. The thicker the wall the better especially outside. I use metal outside wrapping - see pictures. Yes also resistance from UV and rain is a good idea for the pipes outside. Guess which ones are the hot ones??

In my experience Temp is right! After installing 326 bathrooms in 12 years I can say spot on! I used Bal primer! Also when the poor sod comes to change the tiling years later the plasterboard walls don't disintegrate when the tiles peel off the plasterboard surface. Most often water ingress happened at the joints of tiles to shower trays or baths where a good silicone was not used and rotted the walls both timber frame and solid (plaster bubbles) or in corners of the room where silicone was not used to allow for movement. I learnt a lot of my knowledge working for a big company who sent me to repair all the failed jobs other people did. I am still not sure if they sent me to learn or if they thought I couldn't make it any worse. ?

Sorry, I meant this one.

Hi Bruno I would especially insulate all the pipework, if possible, shown in RED inside and outside the building.

Hi Bruno I am sorry if you have already answered this question: Do you have a valve that blends the hot water from your hot water tank with cold water to ensure that the water that comes out of your hot water taps is not too hot (scalding?) Marvin

Hi Bruno I would insulate the pipes as much as possible. It will do no harm and only help. I wouldn't worry about industry standard, only a better standard. The only thing I would say is to avoid insulation around electrical parts like the box on the port valves next to your tank. Marvin

Thanks ProDave. We're still thinking of using the ASHP to produce cooling in the summer (if this is possible) so I will look further at the internal ASHP at present. Quite right though if we were wanting winter heating only.

Hi PeterW Thank you for your reply. I must admit our plans are based on what we would prefer. I was quoting information I had read from various manufacturer's installation manuals like the Daikin altherma installation manual pages 7 and 8, which I assume may be out of date technologically by now? I will look at other manufacturers installation details. Any particular ones you were thinking of? Agreed that 35 to 50 decibels is not loud but 3 foot from an open bedroom window in summer is not the best arrangement. The pipe distance issue is important to keep the coefficient of performance (COP) as good as possible during the coldest period of winter. Having looked at the heat loss from pipes outside the bungalow thermal envelope over about 16 metres one way, I think I would rather use a 4 bar fire in my living room. The complications of waterproofing pipe insulation underground to get to the bungalow is too much for my little brain. Whilst I think about it I understand that there is a 10 meter limit on the MCS 020 standard required to be met to avoid planning permission: https://www.microgenerationcertification.org/mcs-standards/installer-standards/ I will keep my options open but at the moment we are still looking at the inside ASHP option. Kind Regards Marvin

Thank you for your reply ProDave I am aware of such internal ASHP's. Some have been indicated before on this site and I wondered if there were any updates. It may be that there are some ASHP that don't have outdoor units which are not exhaust air heat pumps (I have MVHR installed and it works very well. (with 3 exceptions) The tubes I refer to are of course the Inlet and exhaust (150mm diameter tubes) Oh how technology moves on in the world! I've only just caught up with the (hot) benefits of solar hot water. Regards Phil.

A

Sorry Conor. Complicated answer. Screwfix will supply all the parts you need but if the "40 mm waste pipe that you have " is from another supplier you may find it slightly bigger or smaller than the screw fix designed bits. I will see what I can photo for you M