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Everything posted by Marvin
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Yew takes along time to grow...
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You just can't leave it can you.... ???
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Manufacturer technical department states the existing condensate drain will remove condensation produced when either the inlet air is colder than the exhaust air, or when the exhaust air is colder than the inlet air. so all good from that point of view.
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I don't know. I will contact the manufacturer and see if I can add a drain on the other side....
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Good question. Yes we have a summer bypass.
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Good question. ALL 4 lines of ducting insulated everywhere within the building/ loft.
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Oil fired combi, UF heating and radiators
Marvin replied to gdal's topic in Boilers & Hot Water Tanks
https://www.greenspec.co.uk/building-design/limecrete-floors-for-old-buildings/ -
Only just got the ASHP running. Purchased and will be adding one of these coils: Duct water heater.pdf Had to add an air filter as the water coil will be positioned just before the entrance to the MVHR box on the inlet pipe. This should allow condensation to flow out of MVHR box through the drain point. Yes pipework to MVHR. Yes warm and cool as set on ASHP. Advised to have separate port valves to both radiators and coil. If the coil works ok, then when cooling, I can turn the temperature down lower than I would for radiators, and just run the coil and this would avoid the risk of condensation on the radiators because I should be able to leave them off. (enough cooling from coil hopefully) That's the cunning plan! We shall see.
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This model is the single phase Invertech air to water ASHP. I don't know about the other models. We're running it using radiators and a coil in the MVHR system Yes programmable cooling.
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Yes but you try living without a fridge/freezer these days..
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Yes. To protect the DPM from sharp edges and fill voids to make a flat surface to lay the DPM ON.
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Beam not installed to spec, should I be worried ?
Marvin replied to Loz's topic in RSJs, Lintels & Steelwork
A much better way of dealing with the situation! And I agree with nod. I just wonder why specify 400mm. -
Inflation. Wrong time to start a self build?
Marvin replied to flanagaj's topic in Building Materials
At present material availability is irratic. -
Ditto. Realised the same.
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Runs very quietly. Almost no noise from the unit outside. Fridge/freezer makes more noise inside.
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Beam not installed to spec, should I be worried ?
Marvin replied to Loz's topic in RSJs, Lintels & Steelwork
To be clear its the surface area of the pad stone lying on the blockwork below that is important. A padstone crossing the cavity would be worse because there would be even less surface area on the blockwork walls below. The idea is to spread the load on to a wide enough surface area that the blockwork can cope. -
Beam not installed to spec, should I be worried ?
Marvin replied to Loz's topic in RSJs, Lintels & Steelwork
I understand. It may have been that the pad stone are not available, I have had all sorts of problems with obtaining concrete items. I agree. If it was me I would be asking the Structural Engineer how important the 400mm length of the pads is. Especially as 300 is only 75% of the original length. After all you don't want him to fall out with the builder if a problem arises. Better to face it now rather than later... Good luck Marvin -
Fence panels level or following wall?
Marvin replied to success1980's topic in Landscaping, Decking & Patios
Surely, which ever looks best? How about a picture? -
Beam not installed to spec, should I be worried ?
Marvin replied to Loz's topic in RSJs, Lintels & Steelwork
More information for you Lawrence. https://www.mcandrewassociates.co.uk/post/padstones-what-are-they-and-how-are-they-used Think the 400 length of each padstone is important. Marvin -
and as Bitpipe indicated .. and where all the connections need to go to. Oh and MVHR.
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From a size point of view it seems that you should be very carefully identify what your thinking of putting in the room. My HW tank is 1600mm tall and its not a tall one. Thinking of a space created below the ground floor makes me believe it would be viewed as part of the foundations to the building and therefore Building Regulations apply? Different heating, cooling and fresh air arrangements for your building could also make a difference as to how it would all work. Air source heat pump air to air? Air source heat pump air to water? Photovoltaics electricity generation? Gas boiler? Passive house standard? Coal fire? Its not just "make a space and stick all the stuff in there" its also " what does it all need to connect to and where would the connections be coming from" As you have indicated, its not if, but how much. However the "how much" is also related to "if more work is required to put the items in the basement rather than elsewhere". So you still have no answer but perhaps you can consider what mechanical and electrical (M&E) your thinking of installing and see if the basement idea still works. Best of Luck Marvin.
