ETC

Could easily accommodate an upstairs.

Totally slate or burnt larch.

A couple of my ideas.

@Amateur bob I pm’d you earlier. Did you see my message?

Piles for a caravan - I’ve heard it all now!

And do you have a sketch of your final design?

This was my solution to this design.

Is this built?

Can you post your original design, the comments your planners made and a rough location.

Commencement is digging (a) foundation(s) and Building Control need to see the trenches before concrete is poured. Not interested in demolition but could be involved if a dangerous structure being demolished. Planning could be interested but not BC.

The only way to reduce the steel is to omit the step in the RHS external wall.

If you are only tied to the ridge height at the ridge why don’t you raise the flat roof up say 600mm beyond the ridge?

Looks familiar…….🤔

Agree. Lintels set too high. Either fill in on both sides with timber studwork and plasterboard or get a higher door to suit. I also see that you won’t get a full width architrave on one side of the door. My advice would be to make the architraves to the perimeter of this door the same - use the smaller dimension as the width.

The gully trap is either blocked or is not connected to the drainage system. This looks like the pipe is connected to gully trap serving a rainwater downpipe. You really should be separating the foul and storm systems. Connect the foul drainage pipe to a new gully trap and connec5 the gully trap to t(e foul drainage system.

Padstone required under the steel beam (if not provided in the inner leaf*) and blockwork built in and around the steelwork. *If the steel beam penetrates the cavity make sure that there is plenty of insulation around the beam.

Change the flexi to solid and insulate the pipe.

I think we will agree to disagree. Not having a contract between a contractor and an employer is a bad idea and even though some contracts may be a bit tricky to administer I wouldn’t use this excuse not to enter into a contract - even with a one man band.

Phew - I’m glad you don’t think I’m giving bad advice! I don’t think you understand how a typical construction contract works. I’ve never done any construction project without a contract (and wouldn’t dream of doing so) - domestic and commercial - using JCT mostly but colleagues and consultants I have appointed have used the NEC suite. Personally I prefer the JCT but many contractors prefer the NEC. The OP is able to consult a QS and I would suspect that the QS will be able to advise him in relation to the most appropriate type of contract to use. I genuinely think advising someone not to use a contract when doing construction work is very bad advice - with the best will in the world and even if the contractor was his best friend - something could go wrong and the contract is there to protect BOTH the contractor and the employer. Trusting a contractor will only get you so far.

Think seriously about doing anything without a written contract. As I said before the NEC have a suite of contracts where everything you need a contractor to do is listed like a shopping list. Check it out.

What’s the FFL to FFL dimension? Whats the rise and going of the steps?

Close Gus - but not correct. The Architect’s Registration Board (not the RIBA, RIAS, or the RSUA) are responsible for the protection of the title “architect”. A yearly fee is payable once you qualify. PII is mandatory. CPD will shortly become mandatory. The RIBA is not responsible for the protection of the title “architect” but in order to call yourself a chartered architect you must join the RIBA and pay the fee. You cannot become a chartered architect in the UK unless you are registered with the ARB and then join the RIBA. If an architect retires from practice he cannot call him or herself an architect unless he or she is still registered with the ARB. If an architect stops practicing he or she would be wise to maintain what is referred to as “run-off” PII for a number of years. There are a number of chartered categories but I don’t think “retired” is one. Clear as mud?

It doesn’t look too bad - personally I wouldn’t be too worried about it - as long as the door width and (ramp) access were OK.

Irrespective of what the Guidance say you should be putting in as much insulation as possible. 75mm is a bit on the low side. For 0.18W/m2K you’re looking at 190mm of Rockwool. Other insulants will vary in thickness.