ETC
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Everything posted by ETC
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How to detail PIR at the wall cavity / wall plate in this situation?
ETC replied to Oxbow16's topic in Heat Insulation
Fit 50mm battens to each rafter. Fit 100mm PIR between rafters maintaining a 50mm gap above the insulation. Fit 62.5mm insulated plasterboard across the face of the rafters. Fit 400mm mineral wool insulation above the flat ceiling. Staple the TCB cavity barrier to the back of the wall plate. -
How to detail PIR at the wall cavity / wall plate in this situation?
ETC replied to Oxbow16's topic in Heat Insulation
Is the wall plate on the inner or outer leaf? -
In a situation where the gap cavity cannot be closed - when timber cladding needs a ventilated and drained cavity an intumescent strip may be acceptable - ie at the bottom of a rain screen timber clad wall. Again depends on how the construction is detailed.
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Generally a cavity barrier can be calcium silicate board, timber, steel or sleeved mineral wool or mineral wool slab. The easiest to install around windows and doors and at the eaves and verge is calcium silicate board. In a timber frame building the easiest is timber around windows and doors and sleeved mineral wool at the top of all cavity walls. However, where there is a called external wall the difficulty will be maintaining a ventilated and drained cavity and installing a cavity barrier. The only way I can see this being done is to vent and drain above and below all horizontal cavity barriers. I have seen intumescent barriers specified for cladded walls but they technically are not listed as a cavity barrier in ADB and you will be relying on the intumescent properties of the product to activate once a fire starts.
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Move steel column to be flush with wall?
ETC replied to Dabooj80's topic in RSJs, Lintels & Steelwork
Looks like a picture frame to me - and the stanchion can be placed into the cavity as long as there is a minimum 40mm gap between the outside face of the stanchion and the inside face of the external leaf. As others have said it is a potential thermal bridge and it is always better to have the stanchion within the warm space. As most others have said moving the stanchion back will affect the design of the pad foundation - not impossible to do but difficult and will cost more. Personally I don’t see the issue with the stanchion projecting into the room - but that’s just personal taste. -
Granny and sucking eggs. Speak to your BCO about the extent of cavity barriers required. Normally in a masonry built house they are required to the perimeter of all openings and at the top of all cavity walls In a timber framed house they are required in similar locations although your timber frame supplier may also ask you to install them horizontally at an intermediate floor level. Where an external wall is timber cladding fixed to a structural insulated timber frame the requirement for cavity barriers should be similar as well as the requirement for FR of the wall depending on the distance of the wall from a boundary or a notional boundary. Check out ADB and speak to your BCO. There are specific locations that the BCO will require cavity barriers.
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Getting my head around Part B and K for our windows
ETC replied to MikeSharp01's topic in Windows & Glazing
The safety glass sorts out the problem of someone falling against the window but not falling out if it can be opened. If a window has an opening sash where the bottom of the opening sash is less than 800mm above the floor you need to guard the floor so that someone doesn’t fall out. So - two issues: One: safety glass for all openable and non-openable windows located below 800mm above FFL. Two: Guarding for openable windows located below 800mm above FFL. Hope this helps. -
Getting my head around Part B and K for our windows
ETC replied to MikeSharp01's topic in Windows & Glazing
You just need to consider guarding the floor and safety glass. Safety glass and a non-lockable re-engagable restrictor stay should be acceptable - but check with your BCO. EEWs need to be 0.33m2 roughly 0.45m x 0.75m clear opening. -
Basic building regs question...
ETC replied to Beanyboy2802's topic in New House & Self Build Design
Can you post a sketch of what you mean including length and height? -
@markharro Where are the cavity barriers specified to be located on your build?
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Assistance with Soil/Waste pipes penetrations through foundations
ETC replied to mike2016's topic in Waste & Sewerage
The problem with one pop up per room is that you need above ground - and visible - pipe work inside your house. This is grand if you are going with a Geberit system or creating a false wall but not great if you just box around your pipes which is not visually attractive. -
Assistance with Soil/Waste pipes penetrations through foundations
ETC replied to mike2016's topic in Waste & Sewerage
Appliance to a BIGT. WC directly to an IC. SVP directly to an IC. ICs at changes in direction. -
Assistance with Soil/Waste pipes penetrations through foundations
ETC replied to mike2016's topic in Waste & Sewerage
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Assistance with Soil/Waste pipes penetrations through foundations
ETC replied to mike2016's topic in Waste & Sewerage
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It’s unfortunate that when you pay for expert advice you often don’t get it - and to find out about needing timber frame panel drawings far into the process is very disappointing. In my previous life I would have taken my clients step by step through the building process and would have tried to explain in simple terms how they get from a brief to a completed home. I would have felt that if a client did not understand what I was saying then I needed to explain the process in a different way or in simpler terms. I reiterate what I have said in the past - I am a BCO and RA and if I can help with anything I will.
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Move steel column to be flush with wall?
ETC replied to Dabooj80's topic in RSJs, Lintels & Steelwork
It should be possible. Speak to your SE about an alternative solution - which may mean more reinforcement in the pad foundation and a larger beam. The masonry is probably just there to conceal the UB and if you’re happy with the UB exposed you just need to paint it to get the FR. -
I feel very sorry for those who feel that they have been ripped off and haven’t got value for money when appointing architects, architectural technicians and engineers. When I see the fees being charged and the level of frustration and mistrust I almost feel that there is an opening for a co-operative not-for-profit organisation that can help self-builders get their projects off the ground at a relatively low cost. I see that this forum is often a last resort for many self-builders who are trying to make sense of what they are going through in their self-build journey and in many cases the advice they receive can unfortunately often be too late.
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Seems strange. You sent him your building regs drawings and he’s asking for them? What did you give him?
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Who did you speak to and who drafted the quote?
