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ETC

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Everything posted by ETC

  1. From what I can understand: EEWs. There does not appear to be a minimum height for the bottom of the opening of an EEW in ADB1. The maximum height for the bottom of the EEW is 1100mm above FFL. Guarding. Any window which has an opening sash less than 800mm above FFL needs guarding. Where it is a EEW a non-lockable and re-engageable restrictor stay is acceptable. Picture attached. Just check with your BCO what kind of restrictor stay is acceptable. Safety Glass. Any window sash (fixed or openable) that is below 800mm above FFL (at any floor level) is deemed to be in a “Critical Location” the glass in these windows needs to be safety glass. See pictures attached. Why do you have an EEW on the ground floor? Your window supplier should be aware of all this.
  2. You could always insulate the inside of the wall!
  3. There isn’t a minimum height requirement for an EEW (in England) otherwise a door at first floor wouldn’t comply. In NI the bottom of the EEW should be between 800mm and 1100mm above FFL (except where it is a roof window and the lowest height is 600mm above FFL). Also guarding a floor inside a dwelling only required 0.36kN/m. Locks and restrictor stays are acceptable on EEWs. @craig @MikeSharp01
  4. Why don’t you just install the ceiling once the glazing panel is in? Alternatively either drop or raise a section of the ceiling to the edge of the glazing panel.
  5. Fit 50mm battens to each rafter. Fit 100mm PIR between rafters maintaining a 50mm gap above the insulation. Fit 62.5mm insulated plasterboard across the face of the rafters. Fit 400mm mineral wool insulation above the flat ceiling. Staple the TCB cavity barrier to the back of the wall plate.
  6. Is the wall plate on the inner or outer leaf?
  7. In a situation where the gap cavity cannot be closed - when timber cladding needs a ventilated and drained cavity an intumescent strip may be acceptable - ie at the bottom of a rain screen timber clad wall. Again depends on how the construction is detailed.
  8. @Canski
  9. Generally a cavity barrier can be calcium silicate board, timber, steel or sleeved mineral wool or mineral wool slab. The easiest to install around windows and doors and at the eaves and verge is calcium silicate board. In a timber frame building the easiest is timber around windows and doors and sleeved mineral wool at the top of all cavity walls. However, where there is a called external wall the difficulty will be maintaining a ventilated and drained cavity and installing a cavity barrier. The only way I can see this being done is to vent and drain above and below all horizontal cavity barriers. I have seen intumescent barriers specified for cladded walls but they technically are not listed as a cavity barrier in ADB and you will be relying on the intumescent properties of the product to activate once a fire starts.
  10. Looks like a picture frame to me - and the stanchion can be placed into the cavity as long as there is a minimum 40mm gap between the outside face of the stanchion and the inside face of the external leaf. As others have said it is a potential thermal bridge and it is always better to have the stanchion within the warm space. As most others have said moving the stanchion back will affect the design of the pad foundation - not impossible to do but difficult and will cost more. Personally I don’t see the issue with the stanchion projecting into the room - but that’s just personal taste.
  11. Granny and sucking eggs. Speak to your BCO about the extent of cavity barriers required. Normally in a masonry built house they are required to the perimeter of all openings and at the top of all cavity walls In a timber framed house they are required in similar locations although your timber frame supplier may also ask you to install them horizontally at an intermediate floor level. Where an external wall is timber cladding fixed to a structural insulated timber frame the requirement for cavity barriers should be similar as well as the requirement for FR of the wall depending on the distance of the wall from a boundary or a notional boundary. Check out ADB and speak to your BCO. There are specific locations that the BCO will require cavity barriers.
  12. The safety glass sorts out the problem of someone falling against the window but not falling out if it can be opened. If a window has an opening sash where the bottom of the opening sash is less than 800mm above the floor you need to guard the floor so that someone doesn’t fall out. So - two issues: One: safety glass for all openable and non-openable windows located below 800mm above FFL. Two: Guarding for openable windows located below 800mm above FFL. Hope this helps.
  13. You just need to consider guarding the floor and safety glass. Safety glass and a non-lockable re-engagable restrictor stay should be acceptable - but check with your BCO. EEWs need to be 0.33m2 roughly 0.45m x 0.75m clear opening.
  14. Can you post a sketch of what you mean including length and height?
  15. @markharro Where are the cavity barriers specified to be located on your build?
  16. If however you want a copy of any approved drawings that Building Control have you will need the written consent of the copyright owner before your request will be entertained plus if you do get consent you will need to pay a fee for each drawing.
  17. No. The only drawings/documents Building Control have are those which have been approved and since changes do occur on site there is no guarantee that the approved drawings accurately reflect what was built on site.
  18. The problem with one pop up per room is that you need above ground - and visible - pipe work inside your house. This is grand if you are going with a Geberit system or creating a false wall but not great if you just box around your pipes which is not visually attractive.
  19. Appliance to a BIGT. WC directly to an IC. SVP directly to an IC. ICs at changes in direction.
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