ETC

Difficult one - but I don’t necessarily agree with CharlieKLP. No - you should never scale off a drawings for anything and should always use site or figured dimensions. However my personal opinion is that if you were supplied with inaccurate drawings by your architect then he should accept some responsibility for the mistake - irrespective of the drawings being dimensioned or not or any caveats placed on the drawings. Speak to him and tell him how you feel. Am I correct in saying that the section is new works and the gable behind is existing. If this is the case then the solution your architect came up with looks quite contrived. It would have been better to extend the existing roof over the new extension and to forget about flashing - just my opinion.

Turf?

Why do you want to thermally insulate between two heated spaces?

I think you’ll have to accept that in this climate the wood cladding will turn a different colour over time. I don’t think plastic alternatives would look right.

Burnt larch?

Slate?

Screw the trusses closed?

Get Sky Glass. No dish required.

What on earth is going on with the elevations and why are the internal walls so thick?

My attempt. First floor to remain as is.

If you’ve given your agent the budget they should be designing to it. I suspect this proposal is more expensive that your budget and I’d look again at your brief or your budget. Consider leaving the upstairs as it is and reconfiguring the ground floor to give you the kitchen/diner you want.

Seems a bit petty really. If they are really concerned about IPR suggest that the drawings are “exploded” and set on one layer before they send them to you. They could also remove all the notes if they’re really concerned. You will be able to measure but all the editable information will be removed.

I think you could build a more rational and less expensive house - even with a few curves - that will also meet P80 (PPS7/P55/P79) standards. The spaces are practically un-useable and no matter what your agents tell you not only will you have trouble finding and fitting furniture but there will be a lot of useless space in the rooms. Where you want to install fitted furniture it will be bespoke and expensive. The bedrooms are tight and the amount of natural light into and views from many of the bedrooms will be negligible. You said living on the site is more important to us than the design of the house - if this is really true build a rectangle that will be inexpensive to build and living in. Forget about this design before it is too late and the bills keep coming and coming. If you need to build a house of exceptional design quality look at cheaper options. As an aside what was the concept for this design and how did you get there. I am genuinely interested. Thanks. ETC.

Watch the programme on Sky Arts.

https://www.fosterandpartners.com/projects/dolunay-villa/

Madness! Looks like someone’s HNC project. It will be a b*tch to build and very expensive.

No issue.

Add a batten to the underside of all rafters giving you an even plane to fit your insulated plasterboard to.

Firstly I’m surprised your design team have let you get so far without a roof plan. Secondly I think you you’ll need a roof frame - probably steel. Steel hips and a ridge and purlins to break the rafter span and pick up the ridges of the dormer windows. You might also need a couple of steel portal rafter frames, a steel trimmer and steel ridge beam to help trim out the large return to the front and back. You will also need steel ridge beams for the single storey gables. You’ll also probably need something to anchor the steel to the walls. In hindsight the building would have benefitted from a steel portal frame with infill steels. Or as previously mentioned - trussed rafters. This will be a bespoke design and quite a complicated roof to design. Difficult but not impossible.

The words “shed” and “load” come to mind.

Go ahead….

Can you post a section please?

You will definitely need cavity trays and flashing. I don’t think you’ll get away without a 150mm upstand between your roof and underside of your cill - but check with your local BCO - they might accept lead flashing directly to the cill since there should be a DPC directly under the cill under which you could chase the lead flashing into. Best job would be to put in cavity trays and lead flashing throughout complete with stop ends and bedweeps and a 150mm upstand.

Get a contract. NEC or JCT.

The engineer’s drawing is wrong. You don’t need the outer leaf lintel (there’s nothing above the window on the outer leaf) and the beam is shown too low in the inner leaf - the bottom of the beam should be the top of the bi-folds. The architectural detail looks like it has everything in the right place. For bi-folds and the stability of the wall panel I would expect some sort of goal-post arrangement - a couple of posts at each side and a steel beam as a lintel to make sure the bi-folds don’t buckle. I wouldn’t go off at the deep end with your engineer or take too much advice from a public forum but I do think you need to tell him that you need site specific - not generic details for the build. Good luck.